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AR15.COM
12/4/2006 11:12:34 PM EDT
I have some guns that are going into long term storage for about 4-6 years.  I had planed on coating them with CLP and putting them into there case they came in.  Most of the cases are phome lined plastic clam shells.  Is this the best way?  Anything I need to do special before they go in?  They will be in a safe in an air conditioned house in north florida.  The guns:


A Colt SS 1911
few Glocks 17, 21
Colt 6920, Bushmaster AR with SS barrel
Winchester 1300
Norinco AK and SKS
Ruger MkII Blued


Thanks for the advice. B. Sheppard
12/4/2006 11:22:09 PM EDT
[#1]
Do you mean 4-6 years without ever wiping them down again?  That seems like a long time for the humidity we have here.

I think you can find some long term storage bags that were specifically designed for long term storage of firearms.
12/4/2006 11:24:00 PM EDT
[#2]
Foam and plastic cases should be fine.  Make sure to throw in dessicant packs (especially in the foam cases, as they tend to draw moisture more than plastic).

Also, if you've got any cases that have any type of lining (especially felt), don't pack them in those - I pulled one out that my dad had thrown in storage for about 5 years.  It was a beautiful colt King Cobra - it was in the basement of a well cooled home.  I guess the moisture/heat somehow got to it - and the felt all completely glued itself to the weapon.  That one took many hours to clean up.

Good luck!

+1 for what criley said.
secure.armorholdings.com/kleen-bore/product396.html
12/4/2006 11:44:07 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Do you mean 4-6 years without ever wiping them down again?


I might get down there for Xmas or thanksgiving. I could take them out and wipe them down then but that is not a definite possibility.  I have heard of the bags but did not know they were needed.  I would need a bunch of them but if they worked would be cheep insurance.  Would you put the ARs and Glocks in bags also?  There are 5 ARs so that would save me a few bags if I did not need them.  They all have chrome barrels.
12/5/2006 4:11:05 AM EDT
[#4]
I had two stored for 3 years, a blued Colt .45 and a Desert Eagle. They were in a plastic bag with a bunch of CLP, put into a .50 ammo can. They were nice and wet when I got home!

Didn't have the storage bags then, I would get those and then put into an ammo can. I read somewhere that magnesium(splg)shavings placed into a cloth bag in the same container will help. It said that moisture will attack that first.

Anything blued I would put into a storage bag. I think they have a product called vl-80 rust inhibiter, there's also a spray with it from Brownell's.

I did a couple odd expeirments to test the durability of ammo. Long ago I took 20 or so .45 ball rounds and totally sumerged them in water, they were standard commercial ammo, forgot the brand. I left them for a month, pulled 5 or so to check-no moisture inside, the others shot 100%. The other was I triple bagged(ziplock) a similair amount and placed them in a crawl for a year, 1-4 inches under the sand. No worries, shot 100%, slight darkening of the brass, no corrosion.


Mark
12/5/2006 5:40:29 AM EDT
[#5]
The best thing I have found for gun storage is called Rusty Duck. It is thicker than most gun oils and very long lasting and if I recall correctly says something on the can about gun storage. I used it on all of my dads guns when I would only get out to see him every year or two and knew that he wouldn't keep up on the gun maint. Most kmarts have it in the sporting good section.It is a beige spray can. Its only a few bucks I suggest you get a can and spray down a gun and see what you think of it.
And a plus 1 on the storage bags for the hand guns if you can find them.
12/5/2006 6:10:14 AM EDT
[#6]
Look for RIG.
It stands for Rust Inhibiting Grease, most gunshops have it.
12/5/2006 8:21:41 AM EDT
[#7]
THE BROWN MENACE!!!!
12/5/2006 8:23:04 AM EDT
[#8]
If you have acess to a vacum sealer, I would use that.
12/5/2006 4:08:50 PM EDT
[#9]
By far and away, the "Vapor-Paper" storage method is the best.

These days, the military and industry don't slather metal with thick greases for long term storage, they use the Vapor-paper storage system.
This is a system of a paper that gives off a vapor that drives moisture and air out, and surrounds the metal with a vapor barrier that totally prevents rust.
The second part off the system are special plastic bags that seal the vapor in, and air and moisture out.

The reason this is now used is, the parts are better protected than with greases, and the gun can be removed from storage and used immediately without having to go through a long, nasty degreasing process.

If you wipe the metal with CLP Breakfree to neutralize any fingerprints, wrap a few sheets of Vapor-Paper around the gun, then seal in the special plastic bags, the gun will be rust-free for AT LEAST 10 years.

You need to be sure to use the special "hard" plastic bags, since ordinary plastic bags will pass moisture and allow the rust proofing vapor to escape.

You can buy the paper in sheets sized for pistols or long guns, and the bags come in pistol or long gun sizes.

Among other places to buy:
www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1197&title=GUNWRAP?%20PAPER

www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1154&title=TRIPLE+TOUGH?%20PREMIUM%20STORAGE%20BAGS
Note that when it says "not recommended for aluminum, brass...etc, they mean uncoated, bare aluminum.

For really valuable guns, or storage in harsh environments, after wrapping and sealing the gun, wrap the package with more vapor-paper, then seal in another outer bag.

No BS, this is the best way to protect guns, and is better than any grease or lube.
Even the old military cosmoline isn't this good, and that's why the military no longer use it.



12/5/2006 5:23:32 PM EDT
[#10]
I stored some firearms for over 11 years.

I used CLP and surplus LSA. The weapons were cleaned, the grips were removed where applicable, and a generous application of oil was the order.

Interesting things-

Zip-loc brand bags were used for each assembly (slide/frame/barrel/mainspring etc.) and after more than a decade were still intact.

Any plastic case that was used to include Tupperware, were swollen or warped from the lubricant's outgassing. No lids or covers popped open, but they were visibly affected. i suggest that you use the Tupperware, because once a factory case is effected, it will never be the same again. A Glock plastic case can handle the outgassing fine though.

Glock frames should just have somelight CLP on the ferrous components only, and of course seperated from the slide.

All bores were lightly greased with RIG. Make sure that the grease gets in the tiny shoulder of the chamber if applicable, I have seen a corrossion "ring" where grease has missed before after very humid storage.

Last warning......The paint filled dots on a Beretta 92 slide became liquified from LSA, and the red and white paint just wiped out like light grease.

Other than that, everything was perfectly preserved.

I degreased with some Gunscrubber, put the grips back on, and all was PEACHY.

I did this before I shipped out to Basic, and didn't get to them until I ETS'd 11 or so years later.
12/5/2006 9:25:15 PM EDT
[#11]
I clean them, oil them heavy, throw them in a ziplock freezer bag (with a little extra oil) and forget them. Works great.
12/5/2006 9:53:16 PM EDT
[#12]
I wouldnt keep them in any gun bag at all.  any fabric will attract and hold moisture.

depending on what type of lube you use, i would remove any wood stocks and keep them separate.  

i havent tried the vacuum bag, but was thinking of that for some of my toys since i dont shoot half of them.

putting them in a ammo can is good too since its sealed.  you can add the moisture absorber packs, but note that what absorbes mositure and release it too.

12/6/2006 5:08:25 AM EDT
[#13]
Buy a 5 gallon bucket of motor oil.

Disassemble firearms.

Drop all metal parts in the oil bucket

Put the tupperware parts in .....tupperware