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AR15.COM
3/8/2013 10:09:50 AM EDT
Just got an M&P 9c.  From what I understand, one of the major complaints about the trigger was the non-tactile reset.  That's apparently been solved in the newer models using the geometry from the Shield; I can certainly feel it well enough.  With that issue fixed, it looks like the Apex DCAEK is just going to address getting rid of the grit and maybe the pull weight.  I'm OK with the pull weight, and I have the tools to polish everything per the Burwell tutorial.  Would the DCAEK really provide anything above that?  I had planned on getting one, but if I can do a polish job & get similar results I'll save the money.  I'm also looking hard at their replacement trigger; anybody use one?
3/8/2013 1:51:46 PM EDT
[#1]
Start with Apex RAM - $23. 1000 grit and jeweler's rouge will do wonders to the sear/trigger group.
3/8/2013 2:11:20 PM EDT
[#2]
The grit in the M&P trigger comes from the striker block. Replace the striker block with Apex's USB (ultimate striker block) and all the grit is out of the trigger 100%. If your ok with the trigger pull weight & your happy with the trigger reset; then you don't need the Apex sear, RAM, or the DCAEK. You only need the USB.

On my M&P, I have the RAM, USB, APEX's competition sear, & a reworked trigger bar for an earlier trigger break; making it in my experience, best trigger available in a polymer pistol. The trigger breaks at about 3 pounds, is crisps, and has a good positive reset.
3/8/2013 3:03:42 PM EDT
[#3]
save your money and do the burwell job. i sold all my apex kits after modding them as shown. All of them now have good 3.5 to 4# trigger, and yes i do have a trigger scale.
3/9/2013 2:41:58 AM EDT
[#4]
apex is over rated, seriously it is. Do the Burwell tutorial polish and you will be gold. Save the money on the apex and buy ammo. As far as reset goes, if you have to use the weapon in self defence a reset is the last thing you will be paying attention too. Reset talk is just mumbo jumbo to anyone that has been in a situation that had to use their side arm...i should know.
3/9/2013 5:23:53 AM EDT
[#5]
I installed the DCAEK in my M&P 9. What a difference. A much better trigger now.
3/9/2013 5:47:54 AM EDT
[#6]
I dont like filing mim stuff.

If youre going to fit a sear, get the apex gfs.  Otherwise just do the dcaek.  They call them hard sears for a reason :)
3/9/2013 2:23:23 PM EDT
[#7]
The polish job did pretty much everything I wanted.  I didn't put quite the profile Burwell suggests on the striker block, but something probably halfway between stock and the Burwell profile.  Going slowly it feels like a 3 stage trigger now.  I get the safety movement, a little firmer pressure up to the wall, then a good break.  At speed it feels like a two stage.  Take up the slack, hit the wall, break.  Not quite a Geissele, but for a buff job I'm happy, and the grit is gone.  I'll shoot it for awhile and take it from there.  I don't think I want a lighter pull weight on a self defense weapon with no safety, but I'll see how well I shoot it before I change anything else.
3/9/2013 9:03:38 PM EDT
[#8]
I've done the Burwell job on 4 or 5 M&Ps and it has worked out well so far.  I have the Apex RAM somewhere around here but never installed it.   You can bend the trigger bar in just a bit to help give you a more definite reset.
3/10/2013 4:48:06 PM EDT
[#9]
If you are in Michigan I would tell you to take it to Doug at ATEi.  He makes his own sears and will do all of the work in front of you while you wait.  It cost me 40 bucks and I have a 3.5lb trigger pull and enhanced reset. My buddy and I compaired our triggers at a competition last year, he has a M&P 9L with a full APEX kit and I was not able to tell the difference.  Doug, from now on, will get to work on every M&P that I buy, he also cut full top and finger serrations in my slide.

Not the best picture in the world but you get the idea.

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/Skidoo61089/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0461_zpsfcc8bf04.jpg

Might be able to take higher quality pics and upload them if anyone wants to see them.
3/11/2013 10:45:46 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
If you are in Michigan I would tell you to take it to Doug at ATEi.  He makes his own sears and will do all of the work in front of you while you wait.  It cost me 40 bucks and I have a 3.5lb trigger pull and enhanced reset. My buddy and I compaired our triggers at a competition last year, he has a M&P 9L with a full APEX kit and I was not able to tell the difference.  Doug, from now on, will get to work on every M&P that I buy, he also cut full top and finger serrations in my slide.

Not the best picture in the world but you get the idea.

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/Skidoo61089/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0461_zpsfcc8bf04.jpg

Might be able to take higher quality pics and upload them if anyone wants to see them.


I'm digging the serrations on the top of the slide, damned professional job from the looks of it. Did you re Melonite it afterwards or go with another finish?
3/11/2013 11:54:02 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
I dont like filing mim stuff.

If youre going to fit a sear, get the apex gfs.  Otherwise just do the dcaek.  They call them hard sears for a reason :)


Smart man :)  Filing a MIM sear and not having it properly heat treated after is not very smart.
3/11/2013 2:44:37 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I dont like filing mim stuff.

If youre going to fit a sear, get the apex gfs.  Otherwise just do the dcaek.  They call them hard sears for a reason :)


Smart man :)  Filing a MIM sear and not having it properly heat treated after is not very smart.


Not all heat treatment is case hardening.

I didn't use a file in any event, just polishing tools.
3/11/2013 3:40:11 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:

I'm digging the serrations on the top of the slide, damned professional job from the looks of it. Did you re Melonite it afterwards or go with another finish?


After he cut everything he sent them out for Melonite finishing.  It is a very professional job, he has a very nice machine shop where he does all the work and is a very very smart guy.
3/11/2013 4:47:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Most MIM parts used in handguns are hardened all the way through, unless there is a specific reason to have them case hardened.