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Posted: 2/19/2006 8:45:47 PM EDT
I found some directions online on how to remove the mag-saftey for hipowers (I have an M95 "Classic" Agentine copy), specifically saying to push the pin from the tapered side out of the frame. However, after some "ginger" tapping with a light, padded hammer over a padded block of wood, the pin didn't budge at all. What am I doing wrong? Do I need some sort of special press/vice to push out the pin, or am I just to not applying enough tapping to the pin to drive it out?
Link Posted: 2/19/2006 9:23:32 PM EDT
That sucker is in there tight. Getting enough whack on it usually results in the punch slipping and scratching the frame.

I put the frame in a very sturdy vise. The more solid the vise and jaws, the less it will absorb hammer energy. I also put duct tape around the pin as an added safety measure in case of slippage. I try to start the pin moving with a brass punch that I have that is very square. I hit it very hard the first time. Once you've done a few, you develop a touch for it. Anyway, I whack it until I get it flush. If I slip, I start all over with the tape. Once the pin is flush, I swith to a smaller steel punch, and finish it off. Good luck!
Link Posted: 2/19/2006 9:35:15 PM EDT
Cool, I think I'll try that. Also, will my HiPower work when the disconnect is removed? I though I heard somehwere that the FM HiPowers made today have gaurd against removing the saftey feature. I assume if that was true, I could just slap in an older drigger pack to remedy that, right?
Link Posted: 2/20/2006 5:06:43 AM EDT
I doubt there is any "guard" against removing the disconnect, even if there is once you replace it, it should be fine.
Link Posted: 2/20/2006 6:23:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/20/2006 6:26:49 AM EDT by LinearThinker]
The "guard" FN started using lately is staking the magazine disconnect pin at both ends. This swages the pin into the pin hole, and makes removal very difficult. I had to drill mine out with a carbide drill on a jig bore, but any sturdy drill press or a milling machine should do.
Not sure if Argentine FM factory does that.
LT
Link Posted: 2/20/2006 4:03:04 PM EDT
I did not know that. Looks like I'm gonna have to drill the sucker out of my new FN
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 6:49:43 PM EDT

Originally Posted By hobbs5624:
That sucker is in there tight. Getting enough whack on it usually results in the punch slipping and scratching the frame.

I put the frame in a very sturdy vise. The more solid the vise and jaws, the less it will absorb hammer energy. I also put duct tape around the pin as an added safety measure in case of slippage. I try to start the pin moving with a brass punch that I have that is very square. I hit it very hard the first time. Once you've done a few, you develop a touch for it. Anyway, I whack it until I get it flush. If I slip, I start all over with the tape. Once the pin is flush, I swith to a smaller steel punch, and finish it off. Good luck!




Hmm, I was thinking about this (still at school, didn't get a chance to work on the HP yet), but how should I put the HP frame in the vice?
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 7:03:49 PM EDT
Well, I use padded vise jaws, and I just put the frame in the vise horizontally, leaving the pin just above the jaws. That way I can rest my punch on top of the jaws so that I can use it as sort of a guide.
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 9:31:53 PM EDT
Ok, cool, I'll give it a try Saturday night.
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 9:25:50 AM EDT
lol, I give up. I tried a brass punch and all it did was chew thru the tape and scratch the paint a bit. The pin moved less than a mm and wouldn't go any further. I guess I'll leafe this to a smith whe nI get this puppy blued (BTW, how much does getting a pistol like a HiPower blued cost? Is it cheap (its just a "dip", right? or does it entail more costs?
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 7:04:38 AM EDT
Have you tried tapping the rotation pin out of the trigger, turning the mag disconnect 180 degrees and jiggling it out while the trigger is pulled?
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