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AR15.COM
3/7/2009 6:09:43 AM EDT
I have the Custom shop CZ 75 SA.  I have @500 or so rounds through it and a LOT of dry fire time. It shoots great but the trigger is well under 3lbs., closer to two. I have not put it on a gauge but it is light. I like than in a 1911 but it's not working for me here. I'm getting to many uh-ho double taps. I know it has the 13 lb hammer spring in it now.Do I just change the spring? I'm going to order the pack with the three different weight's to try. How does this work, if I add two lbs of spring will it give me one lb of trigger weight?
I think I want it @ 3.5 lbs.
thanks

eerw, you around?


3/7/2009 12:13:58 PM EDT
[#1]
Hammer springs are cheap and easy to change. Might as well just switch it out for the stock 15lb and see what you get.
3/7/2009 2:51:28 PM EDT
[#2]
A heavier mainspring will add a little more weight to the felt trigger pull.
its about the easiest thing to try first.

let us know what you end up with.
3/7/2009 6:45:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Changing springs will help some, but it will not fix incorrect sear engagement angles. The right way to fix it is to change the angle and/or amount of engagement surface.
3/7/2009 6:54:43 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:

I have the Custom shop CZ 75 SA.  I have @500 or so rounds through it and a LOT of dry fire time. It shoots great but the trigger is well under 3lbs., closer to two. I have not put it on a gauge but it is light. I like than in a 1911 but it's not working for me here. I'm getting to many uh-ho double taps.




I too have a way light SA trigger pull, but thankfully *I* haven't had double tap issues.

Dare I suggest you practice more to see if you can master the pull better before you change parts out? I hate to see a nice trigger amped up.    
3/8/2009 11:06:16 AM EDT
[#5]
Now there's a question I never thought I would see in the CZ forum...

The posts above are correct.  The mainspring is the cheapest, easiest way to manipulate the trigger pull.
3/8/2009 5:21:38 PM EDT
[#6]
I'll try the 15 lbs spring and see how that works. I have a 2 lb trigger on a 1911 but it's not the same as a CZ. I think it's because the CZ is on a pivot and the 1911 is straight back. I may need to put a little of the pre travel back in but I'll try one thing at a time.
3/8/2009 7:30:48 PM EDT
[#7]
the pivoting trigger puts a little more leverage on the action and it feels like less force.
3/9/2009 7:38:22 PM EDT
[#8]
OK, got the parts ordered.  I ordered the 13,15 and 16 lb hammer springs also got another 11 lb and a 13 lb recoil spring. Also ordered a slide stop to have a spare.
I think I will try changing the recoil spring first to see if that changes how the gun recoils. If that does not work will go back to the 11 lb recoil spring and go to the 15 or 16lb hammer spring to see what I get. I think with just a little tuning  I can get the trigger I want.
3/9/2009 7:44:20 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
the pivoting trigger puts a little more leverage on the action and it feels like less force.


I think that may be the problem. With most of the pretravel  out of the trigger I think my finger comes off  just enough to let it reset and I hit it again.

eerw, how do you have your single action set up?

3/9/2009 10:22:40 PM EDT
[#10]
CZ comp hammer, FPB removed, 13# hammer spring clipped 2 coils. trigger is about 1.75#
I have some pretravel on it to allow my finger to get on and off the trigger without tripping the sear.
3/10/2009 12:38:50 PM EDT
[#11]
Forgive my ignorance, but does the competition hammer have a sear interface angle that eliminates further cocking of the hammer during the trigger pull?
3/10/2009 1:45:25 PM EDT
[#12]
The comp hammer (to my understanding) eliminates the camming effect of the trigger.  It doesn't travel back any more, it just goes.

3/10/2009 2:27:48 PM EDT
[#13]
Very good, thanks.
3/10/2009 3:21:28 PM EDT
[#14]
comp hammer is nice. hammer hooks are short and square..
no funky angle, not excessively long.