Posted: 4/22/2004 2:31:23 PM EDT
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thinking about one of the 1991A1 sprinfield armory .45's. what is the deal on the two piece barrel? anyone got a picture of one? anyone ever heard of a problem with a 2 piece barrel? |
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My early '90's parkerized SA has a two piece bbl. and it's fine. Others report accuracy wanting. Probably ease of manufacture, if I had to guess the reason for it. I keep spares just in case but never needed them, in over 10 years of moderate use. There is a fine line roughly between the chamber area and the barrel where the two are joined, you may not even notice it. I wouldn't let it scare you off, personally. |
| I have a stainless mil-spec and I would assume it has a 2-piece but I don't know. If you have accuracy problems swap it out. If not don't worry about it. I really don't understand why people buy a certain firearm if all they're gonna do is start replacing stuff. If that's the case, why not spend the money that you would and get a Loaded? |
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Excellent point: Springfield Armory are corner cutting bastards. The more I have dealt with them over the years the more I am disgusted by them. That being said let me jump from opinion to the subject at hand: The two piece barrel, if it shoots well from the get go, shouldn't cause you any issues over time. Mine has about seven thousand rounds through it and it still shoots great. Mind you I pretty much only use handguns at ten yards and under. If you must replace your barrel I HIGHLY reccommend the Storm Lake barrels.... In addition, to underline the point made by "shotgun": In my last Springfield Armory debacle I ended up having to almost FULLY gut one of their Armor Coat pistols. I rebuilt it with Wilson, Ed Brown, Colt and Smith and Alexander parts. The only parts left: frame, slide, barrel, hammer. I EVEN SWITCHED OUT THE PINS!!!! |
Huge difference in "bad" parts (defective) & less than ideal parts (plastic trigger, MSH, etc.) I have yet to know of too many gun owners who knowingly buy "an inferior product". |
I don't mean to be a jerk when I say this but you seem to be pretty knowledgable. What parts would YOU replace right off the bat with Mil-spec? The only part that would worry me, and this is something I found out after I bought it, is the plastic barrel link. |
"Plastic barrel link"? I've never seen or heard of such a thing. Maybe someone else can shed some light on that on for me? As for replacement parts, keep your gun original for about 1000rds or so, then you can best judge if you want/need a longer/shorter trigger, different grips, a better bbl (almost an absolute, IMO), etc. etc. The mil-spec sights, while 3-dot now, are straight up & down on the rear, some sort of Noval slant sight would make the gun much more carry-friendly. Keep in mind that 1911 owners are totally different for the most part from other gun owners. Think of them as gearheads who scoff at muscle cars because they don't have enough horsepower & they have to add some more.  The parts I replaced on my mil-spec was barrel, trigger, rear sight & grips. I did add a Harrts recoil reducer full-length guide rod. Thing shoots better than a Gold Cup now. My .o2 |
I'm gonna ask one more and since it's relevant to thread I won't feel like I'm hijacking...much. What kind of fit is requiered to install a new barrel? Is it a drop in or does a smith have to mate the two? Is it better to get the pre-fitted bushing/barrel combo's?
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The so-called "drop-in" barrels seem to be kinda hit or miss. When I had my two-piece bbl changed out, I had a professional gunsmith do it & fit the parts correctly. I bought a Wilson NM bbl & bushing & installed for less than $200. For me, it was well worth the extra few $$$ to have a properly fitted gun that's accurate as hell. My .o2 |
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If your not shooting past 15 ft you are wasting money on replacing an SA 2 piece barrel. Hell a smooth bore will shoot ok M.O.M at 7yds ! From my personal experience with the 2 piece barrels they shoot quite well, The last on I have left I have in my beater 1911 and it will easily shoot 3" at 25 yds . |
If I wanted it to shoot tighter " 1-2" at 25 " I would just install a match bushing, link and have the slide frame tightened up and do a trigger job. There's alot more to making a 1911 shoot than just changing the barrel 
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