Posted: 3/2/2009 9:49:28 PM EDT
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I'm an automatic guy so please pardon my revolver ignorance...I
've got a nice 15 year old or so S&W 617(.22LR) that seems to "shave" much of the bullet coming out of the cylinder and spraying pieces out of the gap. Needless to say accuracy has gone to hell.... This piece used to be a tack-driver. What causes this and how do they generally fix it? I've got no problem ripping apart most things myself.... I can't figure out how they measure or adjust the cylinder hole to barrel alignment..... I've also got a 629 in .44mag that has a similiar problem only that beotch will throw tiny jagged shards of copper jacket out.... Accuracy doesn't seem to have suffered so much in the 629 though. thanks |
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Check out your guns:
Revolver Checkout Sounds like timing is bad, but hard to say what the cause is without a good inspection. 
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It could also just be accumulated lead and copper fouling. First step is to inspect the firing cone and get it very, very clean and free of all lead and copper. There is a device called a "Lewis Lead Remover" (Midway or Brownell's sells it) that is necessary to get it clean if it is very fouled.
If that is not the case, then as the guys above have said... |
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Quoted:
Check out your guns: Revolver Checkout Sounds like timing is bad, but hard to say what the cause is without a good inspection. check out the link. It's good info and tells you how to check the timing. You'll need a special tool to check yoke alignment(search for "yoke alignment tool" on the Brownells website, pick up a copy of "The S&W Shop Manual" too while you're there) if you want to be sure it hasn't gotten warped. If the timing is bad, you'll need to replace the hand. This will require some precise fitting(explained in the S&W shop manual). You may also need to re-fit the cylinder stop. |
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If when the cylinder is swung out there is no residue or shavings between the crane and the frame... the old school trick was to use a lead babbit and smack the crane when closed to realign the necessary parts. More likely though the aforementioned maladies of worn hand or cylinder stop are your issues. With the revolver empty, I repeat... with the revolver empty very slowily squeeze the trigger to see if the cylinder stop comes up in time to lock up before the hammer falls. You must do this for all chambers as they are not machined identically. Repeat in single action and when the hammer is cocked see if the cylinder is locked up. If it is not locked up: the cylinder is out of alignment... lead babbit surprise! Good luck, these are fine handguns when function is correct. |
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I've been shooting a lot of .44 specials (lead) so that might explain that...
If you mean lead .44 specials, then I understand. But the main problem shooting .44 specials in a .44 mag will do is leave a powder fouling line in the lat 1/10" or so of each cylinder chamber. This is not problem really until you go to load magnums, then they go in hard or stick when ejecting. So just be aware of that, also. |