Posted: 2/18/2008 5:45:49 AM EDT
| I have really been bitten by the revolver bug lately, but I don't know alot about the different models. I have an opportunity to by a S&W 686 no dash or a 686-3. Both are 4 inch guns and both are in VG condition. They are typical police trade in revolvers. I can get either one for $325+tax. Is one more desireable than the other? Is this a good price? There is also a 6 inch 686-3 that would cost me $350. I appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance. |
| Dashes mark a modification to the design. I prefer no dash because it was the first of the run, although that may/may not be the best idea (depending on what improvements/mods were done over the -1,-2,-3, etc). $325 is market for fair to good condition. I have a pair of 586 (no dash) Smiths. Great guns. Get which ever 4" revolver is in the best condition and beat t he hell out of it (6" is too much barrel for a general purpose .357, IMO). |
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Differences between a no dash and a dash three aren't worth worrying about. If anything the dash three is to be preferred. Smith had to recall some of the no dash and dash one guns. The recalled guns were overstamped with an "M". Decent price for a police trade in. I'd buy which ever one seems to be in the best condition. |
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I'd go for the no dash, but it's really very little difference. That price is about right, not spectacular, but they are excellent guns. One of my favorite things about the .357 is the capability to shoot mouse fart loads, like a 148 HBWC at 700fps all the way up to a 125 JHP at 1600 or a 180 WFN at 1250. It's a very versatile cartridge. A 686 can handle pretty much any .357 load you can find. |
  Slowly index the cylinder into battery with the hammer to check the timing at each lock. Look for any evidence of gas cutting on the top strap above the forcing cone. This gas cutting is supposed to be self limiting, but don't buy a gun that has a deep cut or a heavily scarred forcing cone and cylinder face. Check the hammer for push off. Cock it and push the hammer with your thumb. It shouldn't go off. Also, with the gun cocked, check the cylinder for excess play at each index position. Look for boogered up screw heads. If the slots are hacked, the gun has probably been tampered with by a plumber. Smith and Wessons do not have a lifetime warranty. If you buy one that needs work, S and W will probably not do anything for you, as I found out just last week with a Model 29........... 
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I would go with the -3 because they have some modifications that I see as improvements while still being made without MIM parts and integral locking devices. Since the L frame is a little large for carrying, I chose the 6 inch model and have long since sold off my 686 CS1 with a 4" tube. For me the longer sight radius adds a little extra accuracy, for a fast follow up shots the weight in front keeps the muzzle lower. |
