Posted: 3/20/2017 6:18:23 AM EDT
| I ran 100 rounds through a GP 100 . NIB pistol . I wet all the cylinder holes for a few hours with CLP . I then nylon brushed them / dry patch. I could still see a little build up in them. I then wet with Hoppes 9 for 10 minuets with nylon brush treatment / dry patch. I can still see a little build up ( I believe anyhow ) . Whats yall method and am I being to anal about the cylinder chambers? This was 38 specials through my 357 GP100 pistol. Thanks Wardawg |
| Take a worn out 38/357 bronze brush. Cut up a Chore Boy copper scrubbers (make sure it's the copper version, they make steel also) wrap a small amount of this copper mesh around the old bore brush. Go to town on the cylinder with it and a little bit of you favorite bore cleaner or CLP. In the case of a really fouled up cylinder I have even used a pistol drill on this combo but I doubt you will need to do that. Chore Boy and elbow grease usual does it just fine. |
| I use next to zero cleaning fluids and my cleaning takes just a few minutes. I am the anti white glove inspection clean poster child- a few dry brush passes and a few dry patch passes each chamber- drop in 6 rounds do they drop in easily and chamber no problem from my speedloader? Good enough cleaning done |
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Take a worn out 38/357 bronze brush. Cut up a Chore Boy copper scrubbers (make sure it's the copper version, they make steel also) wrap a small amount of this copper mesh around the old bore brush. Go to town on the cylinder with it and a little bit of you favorite bore cleaner or CLP. In the case of a really fouled up cylinder I have even used a pistol drill on this combo but I doubt you will need to do that. Chore Boy and elbow grease usual does it just fine. 
For my stainless guns, I usually give the cylinder a good soak in Mpro-7, wait a few, then run a bigger boresnake through. For .357 I can use a .40 or a worn-out .44 one. Seems to work fine. For the face of the cylinder I scrub with a copper brush. I do have lead-free cloths but they're not really worth it unless you're an absolute stickler for perfection. Copper brushes are your friend with ANY revolver...the don't scratch bluing either. Don't use a cloth on bluing though! |
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For revolver cylinders (NOT bores), I use a stainless "Tornado" brush and Hoppes #9.
For the front of the cylinder, I use small 1" x 2" rectangles cut from those plastic dishwashing scrubber pads. Be careful with these. There are "hard" ones and softer ones. The hard ones are abrasive enough to scratch the finish of a handgun. Look for the soft ones and then test them out before using them. They also work well on the inside of the top strap and around the forcing cone. |
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For .38/.357 I chuck a .40 bore brush into my cordless drill, spray on some Hoppe's Elite, and give each chamber a few seconds blast. |
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While you are at it, once it is clean. Wrap the brush with some cotton cloth. Lather on some Flitz metal polish and give the chambers a shine job. I find it makes future cleaning and extraction easier |
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You probably already know this, but if you shoot a bunch of .38 out of a .357, the .38 can leave a ring of crud in the cylinder charge holes that can make it difficult to chamber or extract .357 rounds. The .357 cases expand and lock into the crud ring when fired, making extraction difficult. The cylinder charge holes need to be pretty damn clean. I use a .40 or .410 bore brush in my .357s when shooting .38 to make sure that I get all the crud out.
Another good option to get all the crud out after shooting .38 if you are a reloader is to get some .357 cases. Use your reloading press to slightly bell the mouth of the case until it fits into the cylinder charge holes pretty tightly. Then shove the .357 cases into the charge holes. The belled case mouths will scrape the crud out of the charge holes very well. If the cases fit tightly enough, use a cleaning rod to push them back out of the charge hole. Then use a little Hoppes (or your cleaner of choice) on a .40 or .410 brush and the charge holes are clean as a whistle. If you're not a reloader, see if you have a friend that is and can bell you some .357 brass. Very easy and quick. Bub75 |
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Everyone has good ideas, so far, but the best, by far is Kleenbore brand Lead Away cloth. Clean as usual, then wrap some around a worn .38 Cal. brush and punch the cylinders. They will sparkle with very little effort. It will easily clean the cylinder face as well.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kleen-Bore-KB-GC221-KB-LEAD-AWAY-GUN-CLOTH/37933503?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2400&adid=22222222227026208850&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52381616951&wl4=aud-273067695102 |
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You can always try the Lewis Lead Remover
This is what i use to clean the lead out after shooting wad cutters. |
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You can always try the Lewis Lead Remover This is what i use to clean the lead out after shooting wad cutters. |
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The best method I have found yet is to use a .375 rifle brush for 38/357 and a standard .50 rifle brush for .44/45 chambers on a cleaning rod. You wet with CLP or favorite cleaner and twist them 360* a few times while pulling them back and forth. Also these oversize brushes can be used on occasion to get the stubborn carbon deposits out of the corners of the lands in the barrels when needed.
When I'm done with that I either use a tight fitting patch or a caliber specific jag and mop up the mess. Works like a charm and I won't do it any other way now. I got the idea from the military chamber brushes for machineguns. |
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For .38/.357 I chuck a .40 bore brush into my cordless drill, spray on some Hoppe's Elite, and give each chamber a few seconds blast. |