Posted: 12/25/2016 6:53:15 PM EDT
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Im looking to buy a 38. I don't know a bunch about Smiths so Im asking here. The guy states is locks up tight and is smooth and accurate. I think it is a Model 10. The guy is not real knowledgeable and chatting via text is trying asking $375. Attached File Attached File |
| I had one, actually it was my first wheel gun except mine was a round butt which I prefer. That Model 10 is a K frame(medium) which is S&W bread and butter. Basically the old M&P revolvers became the Model 10 which many law enforcement officers carried until the switch to semi auto's. They come with either round or squared butt/bottom heal of grip. Pinned barrels(Prior to 1981) such as yours and unpinned. You want to make sure to check the timing so it indexes lines up good on each cylinder hole(shaving lead) and for excessive end shake(gap forcing cone) with the trigger held back. I believe there is no mim parts and is all forged internals. While the M10 snub is not really sought after for collectors it has become harder to find and not seen often for sale in my experience. In retrospect I should have kept mine but sold it. Good luck and let us know what happens. |
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I might be mistaken, but the frame of that gun looks to be of a slightly different color than the cylinder and the barrel. Definitely check the model number inside of the frame near the hinge when you swing the cylinder open. Perhaps this is an aluminum framed Model 12? It could be the light and the angle…
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Quoted:
I might be mistaken, but the frame of that gun looks to be of a slightly different color than the cylinder and the barrel. Definitely check the model number inside of the frame near the hinge when you swing the cylinder open. Perhaps this is an aluminum framed Model 12? It could be the light and the angle… All 2 inch model 12's were round butt so this should be a model 10 |
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Yeah I will definitely check it out, thanks for the heads up. He had sent another photo but the glare is worse. I'm going to check it out around lunch tomorrow it isn't far from the house, maybe 20 minutes. Worth checking out anyway.
What really got me looking for a snub was I shot my FIL's S&W Chief he carried flying in the AF. I was impressed at the accuracy and the way it handled those rounds. It just lit a fire, you know? I know this is a larger model than the Chief but I'm not looking for a pocket pistol per se. Just to add to my revolver collection 
Still if it is a Model 12, as long as condition is good, the price is still attractive. Edit: Ok gotcha Capt127 12's have round butts. good to know. |
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All 2 inch model 12's were round butt so this should be a model 10 Have to disagree with you... Do a quick search and you will see many square butt M12's... S&W M12 |
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Regardless of our observations that come from photographs, this is all academic until the seller simply opens the cylinder and looks at the model number.
If it is a Model 12, and you do purchase it, I would shy away from any plus P loads. Those guns were not designed for a constant diet of modern, high-pressure loads. Assuming it is in good condition, a few hot loads are not likely to damage it, but there is really no reason to beat the frame or your hand. These guns were designed to be carried quite a bit and shot very little, and they can be rather punishing with hot loads. Please let us know what you ultimately discover. |
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Met the guy and looked it over much better in person. He lived in BFF and had a target outback, handed me the pistol and 4 rounds and said to give it a go. Shot high but attributed it to thefixed sight and load. He stated he was firm on the price. I was set to go real low. Offered 350 and he handed me a box of bullets and said had take it.Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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There are a few freckles of rust mainly behind the trigger. There was one on the right side under the 4 line stamp and on the barrel near the sight blade. I assume it was from sitting in the leather holster. The pic makes it look like the trigger guard is rusted but it is just glare.
Locks up tight and has a sAttached File mooth action. |
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A great basic revolver. And a steel frame, all the better. OOOO steel wool and some Kroil should remove the surface rust. From what I am able to see in your photographs, the side plate and strain screws look unmolested, which is a really good thing. If you are fairly handy with a perfect fitting screwdriver, you can remove the lockwork and give it a good cleaning. There are numerous YouTube videos on how to do it, just make sure that if you choose to do so, remember that you do not have to pry the side plate off, you simply remove the screws and then use a piece of wood to firmly tap on the lower frame and the side plate will simply pull away from the frame.
A perfect fitting screwdriver is an absolute must. If you do not have one, either do not do this, or order the appropriate blades from Brownells. My standard procedure upon buying an older Smith & Wesson revolver is to strip it completely, clean everything and then properly lubricate it. On some of these guns, you will be surprised how well the action works when you have removed ancient lubricant or whatever debris happen to be lodged within. Also, I believe these guns were regulated with the standard 158 grain round nose, you might want to try a box of those to see how they group. You might be pleasantly surprised. |
| Sweet, pre lock Smith k frame. Id take that over any of their current line with hillary holes and mim parts. I would add a T grip, or this guy makes something similar called a Bk grip |
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I have a set of gunsmith screwdriver tips. I thought I felt a galled screw and it took a loupe to see the galling. I am only think that the PO gave it a try and gave up.
I'll give it a go later. I have some 0000 wool too so I'll knock down the rust freckles. I have given it a nice cleaning and oiled it up nice. I'm pretty happy all in all. I even found a supply of lead sheeting for cheap. Looked up the serial # to find it was made Late 1974 – Early 1975 
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ok I see what you are talking about here is a square butt 12 I grabbed off the S&W forum. The cylinder is a lighter shade. http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt327/Engine49guy/Model%2012/CIMG3469.jpg One thing I noted is that Model 12s generally state air-weight on the barrels above the caliber roll stamp correct? I like it ... Don't care what all these kids today say ("Dude, go Glock or go home!"), I think these Old School S&W wheelguns just ozze major COOLNESS. My 2-cents, but I'd go for it. |
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Very nice old 10. They shoot really well with 158 grain and sometimes close to POA with 148 wadcutters. Lighter bullets get lower.
The 12's came in 2" and 4" with RB and SQ in each length. The 10's came in a variety of lengths. The 2" and 4" pencil barrel RB versions are the easiest to CCW. I have even seen some 4" RB heavy barrel 10's although the 4" 13's seem to out number them. |
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I have a few k frames.
Pre war, victory, pre model post war and m10s. The darn things just don't come up for sale here as much. The 2" square butt I don't have and every Richard, Thomas and Harrington wants mint price. So you did well op. People do collect them and that is a good enough price. |
I've been carrying it and it has grown on me and I forget I have it most times.
Pick one up for me too. 