Posted: 6/13/2011 6:30:24 PM EDT
| Whats the best way to cleanthe blast marks off of a revolver`s cylinder? Blued and stainless |
| I use MC25 Mil-Comm degreaser (Simple Green may be a cheaper way to go, but I've never compared their performance) followed by Brasso. But, I've only used this on stainless revolvers and I don't know if it's safe on bluing. The Brasso is potent and cleans the face of the cylinder like new, but I'd be apprehensive using it on any other part of the gun, especially if it has any type of finish coat on it. |
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Hoppe's and a nylon bristle brush, with some elbow grease works pretty good if you don't want to take a chance removing the bluing.
You might also try a white rubber eraser, the non-abrasive type. But be aware that anything abrasive will wear on bluing, just a question of how fast it goes. You know it'll just have the rings again next time you shoot it, right? 
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| I have used the lead removal cloth on several stainless steel pistols and it works great. I don't own any blued revolvers so I am not sure what you would use. I do know that you shouldn't use the lead removal rag on blued though. Saw pictures of a guys cylinder after he used it. took the bluing right off. |
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Quoted:
What`s flitz? Can I use pencil erasers on blued guns? FLitz is a polish. i wouldnt use an eraser on a blued gun. If you want to use something on your gun, remove the grip panels and try it on a spot that is covered by the grips. that way if it removes any blueing it wont be visible. also, understand that the blast marks will come back the next time you shoot it and any other time. what type/brand of gun is it that needs this TLC? |
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Hoppe's Elite Bore Gel is great for cleaning revolvers. I cannot believe how easy the carbon just wipes away from the end of the cylinder. I wipe a little bit on, let it sit for a minute or two, then just wipe away. It really is that easy.
Hoppe's Elite Bore Gel |
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Since it's blued you have to be careful.
Many of the techniques listed here can damage or even remove the bluing. The bottom line on blued guns is, you're far better off to not attempt to remove the carbon. If you don't want the gun to have carbon on the cylinder face.....don't shoot the gun. If you shoot the gun, there WILL be stains and they never come completely off even stainless guns. Various polishes like Flitz and others are ALL abrasive and WILL thin or remove the bluing depending on how hard you rub or how often you use them. Lead-Away type cloths will strip the bluing off immediately. Pencil erasers are also abrasive and will damage the finish. Using a bore solvent and a brass brush is the least damaging, but it takes a lot of soaking and brushing and even this will eventually damage the bluing. In the case of a blued revolver the most effective and safest method is to use Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter. Simply soak the area for no more than 15 minutes and most of the carbon will be gone It's best to apply a coat of Slip 2000 with a Q tip and let it work. You MUST rinse or wipe the Slip 2000 off and apply a lubricant to prevent rust. This includes the chamber if it runs into them, and you need to keep it from leaking into the center shaft area of the cylinder. While you can remove the cylinder from the gun and soak the cylinder, this runs the risk of "dinking up" the cylinder retention screw and the frame. READ THE JAR LABEL. Soaking for longer may damage the bluing. Again, carbon permanently stains the bluing on the cylinder front and attempting to remove it all will invariably damage the bluing, sooner or later. If you want that un-fired new gun look, keep it new by never firing it. |