Posted: 2/20/2017 1:50:52 AM EDT
| Looking at getting a revolver. Not real big on them but always enjoyed shooting one. I cast my own lead and reload so I can shoot 38s for practically nothing. Looking at getting a gp100 blued with a 4 inch barrel in 357. In my state I can deer hunt with a 4in 357 just in case I would ever want to. Anything wrong with this pistolittle or is there a better option. Will mostly be just shot at a range of no further than 25yds. Any pros to spending the extra for stainless with the exception of rust and holster wear marks. |
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Tell me more of this spring swap? Like names and links to purchasing it  Quoted:
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Not to mention they've improved the trigger the last few years. A spring swap takes 15 minutes and makes the trigger fantastic. I get the WC sets because they are a few bucks cheaper than the Wolff ones, while still having the springs I want, without the ones I don't need. 10# mainspring and 10# trigger return spring are all you need. YMMV but they've been 100% in that combination for me. $10 from Brownells Video (not mine) on how to do the swap is below. Same thing on a SP101 btw. That said, a couple tips. 1. Put the parts in a ziplock or grocery bag when working on them. That way if you lose your grip, you don't shoot the fucker halfway across the house. Learned that on my first 1911 after the recoil spring bounced off my forehead and shot into the abyss.  2. A paperclip or push pin work great for getting the captive pin out of the trigger group for the reset spring. Just press the pawl in a touch to remove tension from the pin, then slide it out with a paperclip. 3. Remember which way the plate on the mainspring goes. Sucks to get it all together and have to break it down again. 4. Oddly enough, I use a towel on the desk (inside the bag) and a fork to hold the mainspring assembly in place. Put the "clip" in position under the tines of the fork, and it gives you enough room to easily compress the spring and put the locking pin back in place.
While you're at it, I take a dremel buffing wheel with some flitz to just round off any rough spots on the strut the mainspring rides on. Nothing crazy, nothing hard, not breaking any edges or getting through hardening. Just smoothing a touch. Makes the trigger pull a bit nicer.  Failed To Load Title |
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I get the WC sets because they are a few bucks cheaper than the Wolff ones, while still having the springs I want, without the ones I don't need. 10# mainspring and 10# trigger return spring are all you need. YMMV but they've been 100% in that combination for me. $10 from Brownells Video (not mine) on how to do the swap is below. Same thing on a SP101 btw. That said, a couple tips. 1. Put the parts in a ziplock or grocery bag when working on them. That way if you lose your grip, you don't shoot the fucker halfway across the house. Learned that on my first 1911 after the recoil spring bounced off my forehead and shot into the abyss. 2. A paperclip or push pin work great for getting the captive pin out of the trigger group for the reset spring. Just press the pawl in a touch to remove tension from the pin, then slide it out with a paperclip. 3. Remember which way the plate on the mainspring goes. Sucks to get it all together and have to break it down again. 4. Oddly enough, I use a towel on the desk (inside the bag) and a fork to hold the mainspring assembly in place. Put the "clip" in position under the tines of the fork, and it gives you enough room to easily compress the spring and put the locking pin back in place.
While you're at it, I take a dremel buffing wheel with some flitz to just round off any rough spots on the strut the mainspring rides on. Nothing crazy, nothing hard, not breaking any edges or getting through hardening. Just smoothing a touch. Makes the trigger pull a bit nicer.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFLEGrNI5CA |
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Get the Stainless model. After having one for a little while you will not buy blued pistols again. Spring kit is easy to install, I have them in all my Rugers. Also Hogue grips. I think it is Alta Vista or something similar that does the wood insert grips for the SP101 and GP100 that are used on a few factory guns. Don't get me wrong, I really like Hogue's products, but the compound on the insert grips really rewards a high grip and absorbs a ton of recoil. Touch more than the Hogue ones I think at least. |
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The GP100 is probably the best value 357 Magnum out there.
I would personally get stainless, Rugers "bluing' isn't great....it's not even good. I have a 4.2" GP100 and I've had a 6" version. The only reason I went with a 4.2" is because I have a 6.5" Super Redhawk .44 so I wanted something a little different. The 4.2" balances well and I like it. Also, there is a 5" version out there too, shouldn't be too hard to find, I know Buds has them in stock. The Match Champion is nice too, but personally I don't like the look of half lug barrels (at least on a GP100), seems too 1970's for me. Put a Wolff reduced power springs in it and it's a pretty darn decent trigger, which is probably my biggest complaint on the gun from the factory, the trigger isn't very clean feeling at all, a bit gritty. I put a green fiber optic front sight on mine, it's so easy to do it's crazy plus it lights up like crazy outside. Since you said it's mainly for range use, I'd personally lean more towards the 6" version. Can't go wrong with a GP100, but I'd highly recommend getting stainless and a Wolff reduced power spring kit for it. |
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I like my 4" GP100. It isn't as refined as a Smith or older Colt but it's accurate and built like a tank. That is all I'm concerned with.
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I like mine a lot. It's really easy to do a trigger job on it. Tons of videos on youtube.
I was just shooting some hot H110 loads with it today. Awesome gun. Mine was made in 1987. Attached File |