Posted: 2/26/2010 3:40:19 PM EDT
| I have been a gun owner for a long time and have owned many different types of firearms. I recently picked up my first Kimber, a Custom II. I am very happy with it except for how easy the frame rusts. I can handle the gun for a few minutes, set it down overnight and the next day there is surface rust on the front strap and other places that my hand touches on the frame. The slide seems to be fine. I add a bit of oil to the rust, and gently gently gently rub the rust with steel wool. Now I have spots where the finish is gone. Is this a common problem? Thanks guys. |
No more rust...it used to be called Metal Bright 
MAAS You can find it at Walgreens where I live. |
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Quoted:
No more rust...it used to be called Metal Bright
MAAS You can find it at Walgreens where I live. Please tell me you used something with a french lavendar scent on your 1911...PLEASE...that would make me laugh very hard 
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I have this problem with a Para P13/45. Frame gets surface rust over night.
The way i stopped it was with a product called Corrossion X(spelling?) it comes in a red spray can. Spray a rag and wipe down. I treated the frame after I soot it and no rust forms. The frame is not oily BTW from the spray if you wipe it off. The finish seems to absorb the spray after a while. I have not had to spray the frame after 5 or so treatments. Frame has stayed rust free for 3 years now with out retreatment. I use it on all my guns surfaces now. |
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The one issue that I do not like about Kimbers now is the use of white steel instead of stainless for their barrels. New Kimbers use the white steel. My TLE has a stainless. The newer barrels tend to developed spot rust very easily, and almost every new Kimber I have seen at gun shops has some form of rust on the barrel.
My TLE II w/External extractor has been outstanding and I have had zero parts failures and only one FTF. The FTF was due to an out of spec Kimber mag. I highly recommend MiliTec lube and grease as it does bond with the metal and should reduce the frequency of the surface rust. If you need to refinish then I suggest Melonite or IonBond-black finish, NP3-matte silver, or just a good Parkerizing. Parkerizing is cheap and if you plan on adding parts or changing things it’s not going to break the bank, whereas, the other finishes should be done when you are done customizing your gun. |
| I'm not positive that this is related, but myself in others in my old dept (humid SE TX) used to have rust probs on S&W 686's (yes, stainless guns) under the grips. It was later determined by the "experts" that this was the result of certain other metals coming into contact with the frames during manufacture/assembly such as when they were clamped in that particular area. I just dremeled the rust off, then polished it smooth. Used "Sheath" on it, never had another prob. I guess on High carbon steel U might need to take some metal off and refinish (if this is a similar issue) |