Posted: 7/1/2006 2:07:31 PM EDT
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I have a few questions about my new Mark 23. First, what are the major areas where wear on the gun is a concern, if at all? Second, when the slide is closed the area where the shell ejects already has a line of "wear" on it perpendicular to the barrel. I assume this is normal since this is a NIB gun. Am I right? Also, is it ok to dry fire the gun? And what part(s) need lube and which don't? And lastly, is it ok to use CLP to clean the slide and internals? Sorry for all the questions but this is my first HK pistol and first Mark 23 and I want to make sure I don't mess anything up. Thanks. |
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1. Major wear areas, top and bottom of barrel, some on the barrel locking block. (including in front of the extractor claw) The mark23 was designed to take 30,000 rounds of +p ammo, without any problems (with slide and fram being 60,000). Not much to worry about on the mark23 wearing out, but since its got such good corrosion protection, you wont need to worry about rust or metal damage. 2. Most likely from racking the slide and/or test firing. mine has some wear there, no biggy. 3. Yes its ok to dry fire the gun, BUT it will reduce wear and tear if you get snap caps. A-Zoom is a good choice. DO NOT dry-release the slide however, unless you have snap caps. bad for the gun. 4. Lube the barrel (with a bit more on the O-ring area) and the barrel locking block (the block over the chamber) Lube the rails on the slide, or the guiding parts where the slide fits onto. Weather or not you lube the firing system/controlls inside is up to you, i just put a drop of gun oil on a Q-tip, and rub it around. Only use normal gun oil. dont need to saturate it, just get the moving parts wet. For cleaning, i use M-pro 7, but im sure any normal gun cleaners/solvents will do the trick. Dont be frightened, as the barrel will look worn out on the outside very quickly. The sping will do the damage on the bottom of the barrel, but its nothing to worry about. The Maritime coating goes into the pores of the metal to protect it, so it wont be effected if the outer black paint coating comes off. Congrats on your new pistol href=Mark23.com - Owners Guild great site, tones of useful info about its history, mechanics and operation, and any doodads you can put on it |
None. The finish is the only part that wears quickly.
That wear line you see on the side of the chamber hood happens the first few times the gun is fired from the factory, same with scratch marks on top of the chamber hood.
HK says yes, I say no. Just like the USP and any fine pistol, why pay good money for a quality gun and then not spend another $10 for quality snap caps to protect your investment. Penny wise and pound foolish if you ask me NOT using snap caps.
Normal oiling, nothing special: slide rails and moving parts. Lightly oiled, don't drown. I like to use a smear of Mili-Tech 1 grease on the slide rails and barrel where it moves through the slide. However, do not use the heavy grease if you are going to be in a sandy or very dirty area. It will attract and hold grit worse than you can imagine. If shooting in dirty places go very sparingly on the oiling and only use something light like CLP.
Yes, perfectly fine. I like to use something other than CLP for cleaning but it makes a fine lube and protector. For cleaning I like MPro-7 or Hoppes Elite (same stuff as far as I can tell). I have never had much luck using CLP for cleaning. It seems to leave a lot behind that the MPro-7 gets.
Better to ask than damage a $2000 pistol. |