Posted: 9/11/2006 5:00:20 PM EDT
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My favorite gun, a '68 ppk, has started to not fully recock the hammer. No ejection problems, just that about 30% to 40% of the time, the hammer returns to the double action position. What Up? Maybe the sear is worn, perhaps the engagement surfaces need replacement or resurfacing? I'm sure the recoil and main springs are original. This thing has had a tremendous number of rounds through it. Any good ideas before I ship it off for repair? |
The cheapest attempt to fix it is a new recoil spring, I'd try that first & see what happens. The next obvious thing is indeed the hammer/sear enganement. You state it has a lot of rds thru it. While it may not be common to have a sear engagement point wear out, it's not unheard of. Murphy's Law & all that.........  My .o2 |
| Yeah. I kinda thought I'd give that a try first. Thanks for the reply. It would be relative cheap, all things considered. Would the main spring be a better candidate for this problem?, I wonder? I don't have the knowledge or experience for changing the main spring (perhaps I'll learn). |
The "main spring" is what drives the hammer forward when it releases from the sear. I'm not sure how it would cause the problem you're having, but then I learn something all the time in here..........  Given the age & rds shot, a complete spring kit from Wolff for about $15 may not be a bad idea?????
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The "usual" when a PP series starts to do this is a dirty/gummed up sear or a worn/defective sear or hammer cocking interface. Remove the grips and field strip the gun. The sear is a saddle-type design. Check to see if it's moving freely through it's full range of rotation with no sticking or drag. Next, check the sear ledge for impacted dirt, chips, or worn cocking ledge. Check the hammer "nose" for wear or chipping where it contacts the sear when cocked. Check the trigger bar to insure it's free to move correctly, is properly interlocked with the sear, and that the trigger bar spring is applying the correct upward tension. Make sure the trigger bar is not interfering with sear rotation. Unlikely, but possible, check the safety system to be sure the safety isn't moving ON just far enough to cause the gun to UN-COCK during recoil. If the above all check out, I'd cut to the chase and send it in to Walther/S&W for a repair by people who know what their doing. |
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Your suggestions about dirty/gummed up sear and/or related surfaces was the first thing I attended to when this first started happening. I did a rather throrough cleaning of these semi-internal parts (without dissasembly which is way beyond my knowledge). Upon close inspection with a loupe, the surfaces, edges, and ledges all seem clean and clear of any obvious burrs or rough spots. So.....I'll probably be shipping it off for an experts opinion and any necessary repairs. On that note, I was considering sending it to a well known smith in Nebraska, who indicated they could squeeze it in within the next 6 to 8 weeks. Do you think S&W would be any faster or better? Thanks for your suggestions |
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Not knowing the local gunsmith's rep, I can't say anything about him. I can say that S&W know more about it than anyone except the Walther plant in Germany. Their prices and turn-around are usually competitive, and they sometimes surprise you by NOT charging for something they consider a factory defect, or a customer good relations "fix". Since it's likely that in this case, the "fix" is going to be a new sear or hammer, I'd recommend S&W, since they have factory new parts on hand. This means they can fix it right NOW instead of shopping around for what will be used parts, and they won't be tempted to try "patching" or modifying the original parts just to get it out of the shop. |
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You make good sense. The smith I was referring to is Cyl & Slide. I doubt they would try patching or modifying. But the turn around from S&W mght well be better since, as you say, they probably have the parts on hand. I'll contact them and see if they can get me a time frame for the suspected necessary repairs. Thanks for your suggestion. |
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Something there doesn't sound right. Supposedly, the Walther/S&W deal was, they would jointly make guns, S&W would make new PP series guns, AND S&W would provide repairs to the older guns. You just might send them an email and see if you get the same story. If it's right, Cylinder & Slide is as good as it gets, OR you can send it to Walther's North American repair service: www.carlwalther.com/ |
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Got it from both the phone call and via email. So, S&W will definitively not provide service or repair on Walthers predating their agreement of about 6 years ago. I tried emailing www.carlwather.com and got a bounce back on the email. I'll try calling there tomorrow and see what that brings. After that, I'm done researching. It'll be off to Earl's or Cyl & Slide. Thanks for you suggestions and help. |