Posted: 2/26/2005 7:24:14 PM EDT
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I was wondering how much travel you guy's P22's trigger needs to "break". Mine seems to not break until nearly the end of the pull and I was wondering if you all experience the same. Thanks |
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There's not much you can do with the P22 trigger and still be "safe." The hammer and sear parts are both MIM'd steel (Metal Infusion Molding or something like that). Then they're case hardened. What that means is that if you do anything more than POLISH the surfaces, you'll wind up taking away the hardened surface and your parts will round off and result in DANGEROUS situations in short order. That said, I've found that adding a trigger stop, or using rubber o-rings on the trigger as a substitute helps a lot. I've also just "polished" the sear and hammer surfaces without taking off any hardened material. A friend of mine who is a gunsmith did a full rework of his trigger, including adjusting the engagement surfaces and drawing back (shortening) the engagement area on the hammer to reduce creep. Importantly, then he used CASENIT to re-case harden the parts and drew them to the appropriate temper. It helped, but realize the P22 will never have a trigger comparable to the Rugers or Brownings, so you should get used to it. Oh, BTW, the P22 is a real bear to detail strip. I've had at least 2 friends bring me theirs in a box to reassemble after they split open the sideplates and were unable to get everything back together. My buddy says with all the work he did, the trigger job would cost $120 if he were charging for his time. Obviously if you want to spend that on a $220 pistol, go ahead and find a smith, but I'm not sure it's worth the money. |
Yup, just took mine out this morning to do "canadian goose duty" (startle the f-ing things off of our property). My trigger breaks in the last 1/8" of pull. As Gonzo points out this is $200 pistol that is SA/DA; I think the DA aspect takes up the first 3/4 of the pull. If it really bothers you, I'd go for a different pistol, not much you can do in there. |
thanks for the reply's guys. I can deal with it because it is indeed only a $200  I just wanted to make sure I wasn't alone
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| My sear is light, but it activates in the last 1/8" or so of the pull (the gap between the back of the grip and the back of the trigger). I had some new magazines and they would not go bang even if the trigger was all the way back (unless I wiggled the magazine). It turns out the magazine release/saftety tabs (those square things that stick out) were too thick on mine. These new mags were "A" marked but shiny stainless. The tabs were separately formed/cut from the body where my original "A" mags were sort of pressed from the body but still connected on most edges (think of them as stretched out, as if punched from a stretchy plastic bag). The stainless mags were too thick, I had to lightly tap them down with a hammer about .007"-.01" (on my caliper, they measured 1.09x and my originals were 1.088" thick). That solved the problem and now the new ones have a trigger that breaks at about 1/8" thus functioning like the original blued ones that came with the gun. |