Posted: 8/17/2012 4:30:52 PM EDT
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Which of these polymer handgun mechanisms appears to be the best, strongest, most durable, most reliable design, etc...?
If you would like to participate by commenting, please Indicate your preference for each by replying to this post, and indicate why you believe certain mechanisms appear to be superior compared to others. Each photo is numbered... The view in each photo looks down upon the polymer frame, into the internal mechanisms of each. The steel alloy areas of the mechanisms are circled in white, and the green shaded areas are machined aluminum areas. The Slides are positioned next to the polymer section of the handgun to assist in orientation with respect to the direction the barrel is pointing in each photo. The Slides are all machined steel, and quality seems relatively uniform between the different brands, so the slide quality with respect to durability, strength, reliability, etc...seems relatively equal to me, and probably not noteworthy with respect to one being better or worse quality than the other. These photos reveal the internal mechanisms of (8) very popular brands with respect to how much of the internal workings of these polymer firearms is supported by metal frame work, and the various types of frame work that each manufacturer has chosen to incorporate into their respective designs. It would seem to me that the design of the internal frame work would play a considerable roll in the durability of each, whether a manufacturer is relying mostly on polymer (plastic) for support as the mechanism functions, or whether the manufacturer is incorporating strategically placed metallic support, along with polymer, to achieve strength, durability, reliability, etc... I will eventually reveal the brand names of each of these designs by number... http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x330/Quizcat/1-Optimized.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x330/Quizcat/2-Optimized.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x330/Quizcat/3-Optimized.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x330/Quizcat/4-Optimized.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x330/Quizcat/5-Optimized.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x330/Quizcat/6-Optimized.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x330/Quizcat/7-Optimized.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x330/Quizcat/8-Optimized.jpg |
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Lets back it up, and since the poly frames have a steel insert, then it comes down to what metal against what metal is going to last the longest. Also to point out here, what metals are being used as well, and if they have any treatment to the metal as well.
Now having said that, we know for a fact that two identical metals that are rubbing against each other will seize/gall the fastest, where as if one of the metals are softer, than the softer metal will be the one that wears the fastest. On the subject of metals, then in the case of aluminum, it is anodized to create a RC68+ layer on the top of the surface, so then what comes in question is how long that anodized layer is going to last until you get down to say the 7075 metal instead. Also to point out here, in the case of steel parts, how hard they have been hardened comes into play as well. Next we get into the stress points on the mating areas, and then what becomes more of just a guide area instead, such as in the case of the glock that the rear guide areas are bent taps, instead of milled ares, since this area on a glock does not see the same amount of stress that a 1911 would see if the barrel linkage was over sized for a firmer lock up. To bottom line it, every pistol that is shown will last more than 100K of round; so long as you replace the recoils spring every 4K to 6K of rounds, and keep the pistol cleaned and lubed. So instead of just playing a visual game and taking wild guess in the dark, you will need to list the metals in play, the type of heat treating and any metal treatments as well. Once you do this, then you can begin to determine the bearing area's, and what the metal in play is designed to withstand with their heat treatment and coatings. Hence, what may be the least amount of contact between the slide and frame for any give pistol, may be in fact stronger than one with more bearing area between the two. |
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Quoted:
If I am correct, from my desk at work with nothing in front of me I would say #3 and its a HK ETA: can't be, no hammer... Walther maybe??? Not sure if they are all correct, grade me 1-Kahr 2-Beretta 3-HK Walther??? 4-XD-c 5-FN 6-Glock 7-Ruger 8-XD #4 S&W M&P 9/40 #8 S$W M$P .45 I think |
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The M&P descriptions are misleading. The M&P pistols have a steel liner molded into the polymer frame. The liner goes from the from removable front locking block/rails to the removable rear rails. You can somewhat see the steel liner if you remove the trigger assembly.
Let's be honest here. All of the designs in these pictures have been tested pretty darn well by now and all of them will not have any issues for 99.999% of owners. Even the XD plastic rear frame rails hold up over time thanks to the massive front rails. |
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Quoted:
Lets back it up, and since the poly frames have a steel insert, then it comes down to what metal against what metal is going to last the longest. Also to point out here, what metals are being used as well, and if they have any treatment to the metal as well. Now having said that, we know for a fact that two identical metals that are rubbing against each other will seize/gall the fastest, where as if one of the metals are softer, than the softer metal will be the one that wears the fastest. On the subject of metals, then in the case of aluminum, it is anodized to create a RC68+ layer on the top of the surface, so then what comes in question is how long that anodized layer is going to last until you get down to say the 7075 metal instead. Also to point out here, in the case of steel parts, how hard they have been hardened comes into play as well. Next we get into the stress points on the mating areas, and then what becomes more of just a guide area instead, such as in the case of the glock that the rear guide areas are bent taps, instead of milled ares, since this area on a glock does not see the same amount of stress that a 1911 would see if the barrel linkage was over sized for a firmer lock up. To bottom line it, every pistol that is shown will last more than 100K of round; so long as you replace the recoils spring every 4K to 6K of rounds, and keep the pistol cleaned and lubed. So instead of just playing a visual game and taking wild guess in the dark, you will need to list the metals in play, the type of heat treating and any metal treatments as well. Once you do this, then you can begin to determine the bearing area's, and what the metal in play is designed to withstand with their heat treatment and coatings. Hence, what may be the least amount of contact between the slide and frame for any give pistol, may be in fact stronger than one with more bearing area between the two. Mr Spock, look at the photos, use your experience with pistols and take a quess , 
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