Posted: 1/31/2010 11:24:33 AM EDT
|
Anyone used a 11 degree reamer on their S&W forcing cones?
Any improvement? I know to use the plug gauge before I ream in case anyone is wondering. Just wondering if there is an improvement in accuracy. Thanks. |
|
This depends.
The forcing cone can be altered for different type bullets. For hollow base, wadcutter lead bullets a shallower cone can be used for better results, for jacketed bullets you use a steeper angle. The factories use an angle that works well with everything. So, if you're going to shoot nothing but hollow base wadcutter lead bullets you can go with 11 degrees. Factory S&W is 9 1/2. If you're going to shoot lead and jacketed bullets there's no real advantage in changing it. |
| There are good reasons to want to recut a forcing cone; a forcing cone that is rough or not concentric are good reasons to me. Some prefer an 11 degree cutter. Others, like me, tend to prefer a 5 degree cutter. Both are available from Brownell’s. Ruger and some other factories tend to cut their forcing cones with a 7 or 8 degree cutter, perhaps as a compromise. Perhaps the operative phrase should be: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. If the forcing cone is smooth and concentric, don’t mess with it. If the cylinder has good carry-up and alignment and the diameter of the throats is appropriate, shoot it and see if things are working. When you shoot it, use a flashlight to look at the forcing cone. Leading will usually be readily apparent. And the distribution of fouling will tell you a lot about the chamber alignment. If accuracy is poor and you have some of the symptoms of bad throat diameter, rough or not concentric forcing cone, then you can plan to make corrections. |
|
Quoted:
There are good reasons to want to recut a forcing cone; a forcing cone that is rough or not concentric are good reasons to me. Some prefer an 11 degree cutter. Others, like me, tend to prefer a 5 degree cutter. Both are available from Brownell’s. Ruger and some other factories tend to cut their forcing cones with a 7 or 8 degree cutter, perhaps as a compromise. Perhaps the operative phrase should be: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. If the forcing cone is smooth and concentric, don’t mess with it. If the cylinder has good carry-up and alignment and the diameter of the throats is appropriate, shoot it and see if things are working. When you shoot it, use a flashlight to look at the forcing cone. Leading will usually be readily apparent. And the distribution of fouling will tell you a lot about the chamber alignment. If accuracy is poor and you have some of the symptoms of bad throat diameter, rough or not concentric forcing cone, then you can plan to make corrections. I've got quite a few S&Ws. I'm wondering if it is worth getting the tools simply because of the number of revolvers I now have. I'm sure one or two would benefit from being recut. And others may in the future after being shot quite a few times. Thanks for your answers, gentlemen! 
|
| I have a bunch of .357s. I recut the forcing cone to 5 degrees before I ever shoot them. It can't be hurting them because they all shoot very well afterword. I have only recently started reaming the .45s to 5 degrees. Previously I used the 11 degree cutter. I am not so sure it makes enough of a difference to be noticeable without a Ransom Rest. |