Posted: 7/21/2014 6:03:06 PM EDT
|
I just picked up my first M&P the other day used and they said it came with an Apex trigger in it. Is there anyway to see from these photos if this is true ?
http://i59.tinypic.com/xde2q.jpg http://i62.tinypic.com/2m64l00.jpg |
|
No, even with a close look at the sear it is tough to tell by a photo of the frame components. The best indicator is the striker block (visible in the underside of the slide) - if it is smoothly rounded then it at least is an Apex part, whereas if the angled edges are sharp they are more likely stock parts.
Feel is probably the best indicator. If the trigger feels long and smooth, chances are it is an Apex. If it has lots of bumping and crunching, it is the stock trigger. ETA: Strictly speaking PineappleDevil is correct in saying that the trigger itself is a stock part (as opposed to the Apex FSS), but that is not unusual and does not mean you have been misled. When most folks say they have an "Apex trigger", they are referring to upgraded Apex internal fire control components (sear, striker block, springs etc. - collectively the Apex DCAEK) which make a meaningful improvement in feel with no externally visible changes. |
|
If I could pull the trigger I could tell you. The original sears are more of a silver color, the Apex sears are darker in color. If you have an Apex sear the the springs are probably their as well. eta On a Shield the S&W springs are yellow so they don't confuse them with the reg M&P springs. If it's better than any stock Glock trigger you've ever shot then it's an Apex.
|
|
Quoted: It did on my Shield kit. Both springs (stock and Apex) had them. Quoted: (the Apex spring does not have the foam inside it and appears more tapered) It did on my Shield kit. Both springs (stock and Apex) had them. Bizarre that they disappeared. I have the e-mail notifying me in Gmail that I had a private message from Randy and I wouldn't have deleted them but somehow they disappeared. |
|
Curious as to who is "they?"
Did you buy the pistol NIB? Better, clearer pictures of the sear in better light from multiple angles would be useful. It looks stock from those photos. What is that to the left of the sear in the photos - something having to do with the safety? |
| Best way to tell without taking the gun apart is to pull the trigger back so there is no pretravel left, but before it breaks. The should be between 1/8" and 1/4" left before the trigger hits that bump stop on the frame. Stock set up breaks much earlier in the trigger movement. |

Bizarre that they disappeared. I have the e-mail notifying me in Gmail that I had a private message from Randy and I wouldn't have deleted them but somehow they disappeared.