Posted: 1/30/2011 10:46:07 AM EDT
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I have a Model 10-5 S&W that is getting a fair amount of light primer strikes. This happens maybe every 20 rounds, and the cartridges usually fire on the second try.
These are my reloads, using CCI standard small pistol primers. Never had a problem with CCI primers, and the same loads shoot fine out of my Model 19-4. Suggestions? Thanks |
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Quoted:
If you bought it used, the prior owner may have backed off the tension screw. Some did that to lighten the double action trigger pull. Which usually gives light primer strikes. It needs to be tightened all the way. I doubt that anyone backed it out intentionally, it hadn't really been fired until my grandfather gave it to me this summer. He traded a CB Radio for it in the '70s. My grandfather never fired it when it was in his possession, as he has another identical 10-5. But then again, I don't really know. |
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sometimes on old revolvers the tip of the strain screw is worn and therefore shorter than usual-if it is fully screwed in and still giving light hits here is a trick that may help- take an expended primer with the anvil removed back out the strain screw and use it as a cap over the tip of the strain screw then tighten back down.If the problem goes away the either just leave the makeshift cap in place or get a new replacement strain screw.
BTW CCI primers have a rep for being the "hardest" of all the available U.S.made primers |
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The previous posters are on the right track, but I have a few other suggestions too.
First, check the strain screw hasn't backed out. It doesn't need to be cranked down completely, but it should be firmly in place where ever it's located. If you can move it easily, you're going to need to remove it, add blue Loctite then re set the screw to the appropriate tension. Second, check the under side of the cylinder star is clean. Use a tooth brush to clean under it and make sure not to leave behind any old bristles as they can cause light strikes. Proper firing of a revolver requires the rim of the case be completely seated against the cylinder star face, if your cylinder star isn't seated against the cylinder, you're going to get light strikes. How easily does the brass eject? If the chambers are dirty, you'll get build up that sets the rounds off the cylinder face which means the firing pin has to push the casing all the way forward before it will dimple the primer to ignite the charge. Also check the firing pin face is smooth and free of pits or chips. And finally, check your end shake. With the cylinder closed, grab the cylinder and see if it will shift forward and back. We're not talking about much, maybe .002" to .004", but that's enough to cause light strikes as well. That can be fixed by a smith with the proper tools and know how. Hope this helps. Scott @ Apex |
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Quoted: The previous posters are on the right track, but I have a few other suggestions too. First, check the strain screw hasn't backed out. It doesn't need to be cranked down completely, but it should be firmly in place where ever it's located. If you can move it easily, you're going to need to remove it, add blue Loctite then re set the screw to the appropriate tension. Second, check the under side of the cylinder star is clean. Use a tooth brush to clean under it and make sure not to leave behind any old bristles as they can cause light strikes. Proper firing of a revolver requires the rim of the case be completely seated against the cylinder star face, if your cylinder star isn't seated against the cylinder, you're going to get light strikes. How easily does the brass eject? If the chambers are dirty, you'll get build up that sets the rounds off the cylinder face which means the firing pin has to push the casing all the way forward before it will dimple the primer to ignite the charge. Also check the firing pin face is smooth and free of pits or chips. And finally, check your end shake. With the cylinder closed, grab the cylinder and see if it will shift forward and back. We're not talking about much, maybe .002" to .004", but that's enough to cause light strikes as well. That can be fixed by a smith with the proper tools and know how. Hope this helps. Scott @ Apex See tacked thread at the top of this forum.  ETA: .002" to .004" endshake is NOT enough to cause failures to fire with a revolver unless it already had excess headspace. That's about normal endshake for a wheelgun that hasn't been tuned up. |