Posted: 9/30/2002 5:47:59 AM EDT
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I heard someone on here mention that SIG's rust rather quickly. Took my 220 out yesterday and what's this...a fine crimson patina. Can I hit this with gun blue, will a new finish from SIG last longer than the orig. finish, what to do?? Thanks for any input. |
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Sig bluing is rather on the thin side on the older guns. I don't know on the newer ones. Obviously a staniless slide/alloy frame one won't have too much of a problem. The bluing seems to wear out pretty fast, and rusting follows. K-kote was developed to comabat this, but it flakes off pretty bad as well. Once it does, it looks pretty crappy. A blue finnish is actually a form of oxidation, like rust. You could hit the bare portions with cold blue, or a blue pen, but it wears off pretty fast. THE best solution is to have it refinished with one of the "wonder finishes" like NP3, etc. The best cheap-ass solution (for guys like me) is to use Kalguard Gunkote. It is a bake on finnish. You heat up the piece, spray on the gunkote, and bake it. It's similar in process to Brownell's baking laquer, but it's an entirely different formula. Gunkote is much harder and last much better than baking laquer. Just do a search of "gunkote" and you're bound to find some info. I've used it on all sorts of guns, and it works great. It comes in various colors, and the end result can be vaired to your taste. Ross |
| I can't recommend a good refinish job, because I haven't done one on my 220. But I clean the slide and magazine bodies with Flitz metal polish to remove any oxidation and then use Thompson Center Bore Butter (from my muzzleloader) as a rust inhibitor. It works great, although the Bore Butter smells like Ben Gay for a few hours. |
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I don't have any finish issues on my 220, but my 228 is one of the German assembled ones (before the production lull on 228's) which was right at the time K-kote was coming about. The finish on the 228 is, like mentioned above, a little thin and finicky. I use a thick oil on the 228 and let it sit for a while (maybe a day) after shooting and cleaning, and then simply wipe the excess oil off. Colt has a wonderful thick oil that works pretty well (T36 I think is what they call it). Hope that helps. |
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I pulled my P226 out of the safe two years ago and found rust near the muzzle, as it was actually pitted. I should have checked more frequent. Anyway, I went with GunKote from Mac's Shootin' Iron Restorations and it looks like new. $85 was much cheaper than some of the other solutions. |
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Gentlemen , lets take a page from the Hi-Power shooters ... Get some KROIL ,spray it on and let set for oh , say an hour or so . Then wipe off the rust ! If it doesn't take off , simply repeat untill all traces of rust is gone . This worked well on a friends P-220 slide after the weapon got soaked in the rain on a hunt and sat for a week wet ! Kriol for those of you who are not familiar with the product is a SUPER DUTY penetrating oil .They call it "the oil that creeps". I use it to clean my weapons . 
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