Posted: 5/8/2010 5:48:31 PM EDT
|
I've been doing a lot of reloading for my G21 lately and shooting it a lot more than I used to (my kids and I have put >1K rounds through it in the last 2 months). Most of my loads are lead and shot through a LWD after-market barrel. I have had about a dozen times now where the trigger is pulled, and all I hear is a click. Went to a three-gun match today and it happened 3 times. At the range, I manually cycle, put the round back in, and it will generally fire the second time around. I don't think any of them fail to fire after trying them 2 or 3 times. The gun is pretty old, I bought it used nearly 10 years ago. Until a few months ago, I'd probably only put less than 1K rounds through it myself, no idea how many rounds before I got it. So what is the most likely cause of this? Is it possible the firing pin needs to be replaced, or a spring or something? (I admit, I've never taken it down beyond a field stripping to clean it). Or is is possible I'm seating primers too deeply on some rounds? Thoughts? |
|
Quoted: Have you tried factory ammo? I would guess it is a problem with your loads. I'm definitely not ruling that out, hence my question about primers (maybe should take that to the reloading forum). The problem with that is I'm a bit of a cheapskate and don't want to purchase 1K factory rounds just to see if my gun works with them. I reload at a fraction of the cost. That said, the gun is pretty old with an unknown round count somewhere north of 2K (and possibly a LOT north). Short of taking it in to a gunsmith (which I will if I can't figure it out), what things can I check on the gun itself? Are there certain parts prone to wear out that can affect this? |
|
Quoted: Tbone, it could be your striker spring but didn't you pick up some Wolf LPP a while back? They have been known to have hard cups. I have been using Wolf LPP in my 21 so far with no problems but since its so old a new spring upgrade wouldn't hurt. Yes, Wolf LPP is all I'm using. Striker spring... check. I'll go look into that, recommendations welcome. I'm not averse to tinkering, even though I haven't broken this gun completely down before, I like to learn... |
|
Tbone,
I wouldn't rule out the Wolf LPP but I haven't had any problems with mine. You should also check the firing pin channel to make sure its clean and clear. Also, to replace all the springs won't break the bank. I recommend the Ptooma Glock book to aid in breaking down and replacing everything. |
| I have similar problems from time to time with my reloads. This typically happens when I fail to seat the primer all the way in (a side effect of me mass producing reloads). The firing pin will hit the primer, but will chase the cage forward since the brass isn't there to stop it and it will not ignite. |
|
Thanks for all the help, guys. I ordered 2 new springs, one stock Glock, and the other a stronger Wolff spring. I'll try the stock first, if I keep having trouble will go to the wolff. The idea that the primer may not be seated all the way... that's one I need to go check. I have had some help from my teenage daughter priming brass lately... I thought we checked every one, but you never know... |
|
I'm betting on one of the following 3 issues in order: 1st - high primers I'd recommend that you first check your reloads to ensure the primers are sitting below the base of the case. If any are sticking up, even a bit, then you'll have ignition issues. Seat them fully and the problem should disappear. 2nd - new trigger bar assy Glock came out with a new trigger bar assy (#4256-1) a few years back for their G21s because of some reported FTF on new weapons. Yours may be worn. 3rd - Win LP primers A few years back Winchester had some issues with their LP primers and a fair number of people, my self included, had failures to fire (FTF) using them. As far as springs and such, you've had your Glock a fair amount of time and it's a good idea to to replace the following springs every so often (I do them at 5K rds). Recoil Spring Assy Firing Pin Spring Trigger Spring Magazine Spring While you're replacing your old springs above, a get a new 3.5# Connector and a instead of the stock Trigger Spring, try a Competition Trigger Spring. It will give you a lighter and crisper trigger, much of the pre-travel, and all of the over travel will be eliminated. You'll love your new trigger. Best of all is that its both cheap (about $20) and so easy you can do it yourself. 3.5# Connector: I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and Lone Wolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with less take up and over travel. The other two connectors left a mushy feel in the trigger. You can get it from Glockparts.com for $15 HERE. Comp Trigger Spring: The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and because the spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, the higher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com has them for $5 HERE. While you’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job by following the instructions HERE. Its really quite simple to do and you’ll be pleased with the results. For instructions on replacing your connector and trigger spring, as well as disassembling your Glock, check out Glockparts Disassembly Page. Just click "Disassembly" on the left of his home page. They give instructions with photos to help you do it. Glocks are simple to work on so give it a try. |
|
Quoted: I'm betting on one of the following 3 issues in order: 1st - high primers I'd recommend that you first check your reloads to ensure the primers are sitting below the base of the case. If any are sticking up, even a bit, then you'll have ignition issues. Seat them fully and the problem should disappear. 2nd - new trigger bar assy Glock came out with a new trigger bar assy (#4256-1) a few years back for their G21s because of some reported FTF on new weapons. Yours may be worn. 3rd - Win LP primers A few years back Winchester had some issues with their LP primers and a fair number of people, my self included, had failures to fire (FTF) using them. As far as springs and such, you've had your Glock a fair amount of time and it's a good idea to to replace the following springs every so often (I do them at 5K rds). Recoil Spring Assy Firing Pin Spring Trigger Spring Magazine Spring While you're replacing your old springs above, a get a new 3.5# Connector and a instead of the stock Trigger Spring, try a Competition Trigger Spring. It will give you a lighter andcrisper trigger, much of the pre-travel, and all of the over travel will be eliminated. You'll love your new trigger. Best of all is that its both cheap (about$20) and so easy you can do it yourself. 3.5#Connector: I'vetried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and LoneWolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with lesstake up and over travel. The other two connectors left a mushy feel in thetrigger. You can get it from Glockparts.com for $15 HERE. CompTrigger Spring:The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and becausethe spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, thehigher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com hasthem for $5 HERE. Whileyou’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job by following the instructions HERE. Itsreally quite simple to do and you’ll be pleased with the results. Forinstructions on replacing your connector and trigger spring, as well asdisassembling your Glock, check out Glockparts Disassembly Page. Just click"Disassembly" on the left of his home page. They give instructionswith photos to help you do it. Glocks are simple to work on so give it a try. Thanks, great post, very informative! I'll have to check some round and see if the primers are high. I already put a new stock firing pin spring on order, but it's probably not a bad idea to replace all the springs at this point, I've had the gun for nearly 10 years and who knows how many rounds before that. I'm a little shy on putting non-stock parts into the gun, I use it for CCW a good deal of the time and don't want to play around with the insides too much. On balance, I'd rather it was more reliable, accuracy is a close second priority, I don't need it to drive a tack at 50 yards. |
|
Got a new trigger spring and installed it. I will also check all the rounds I fire next time I'm at the range to see if there are any high primers before I fire them. The older spring did look considerable compressed after I took it out in comparison to the new stock spring I installed. If I don't find any high primers, and still see the issue with the stock spring, I'll try a wolf spring (bought one of those as well). Kicking myself now, should have just bought all new springs for the gun, maybe later. |
| Does the firing pin freely move? If you push in the firing pin safety with your finger or thumb to deactivate it, does the firing pin move back and forth if you shake the slide slightly? There might be a buildup of crud in the firing pin channel that is keeping it from hitting the primer hard enough. You aren't oiling the firing pin are you? |
After you've checked the items everyone else above me suggested (springs, firing pin channel) check out the firing pin protrusion too. Below is a picture of my 21SF's worn and new firing pin. I wasn't having misfires, but with time I wouldn't doubt if something would (or wouldn't!) have happened. |