Posted: 11/1/2008 7:07:04 PM EDT
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I recently bought a Glock 20 & wish to convert it to the 3.5lb trigger group. While at the Glock Parts store, I saw this spring: http://glockparts.com/store/item/gh9u/Springs_Spring_Kits/4lb_Firing_Pin_Spring_Not_for_Duty_or_Carry.html
They specifically mention "not for carry use". Is this merely lawyer speak, or is there a damn good reason to not use this with the 3.5 disconnect? My biggest gripe with the Glock line is the mushy trigger feel. I don't want to spend a lot of $$, but I tend to belive the 3.5lb system might be right up my alley. Thoughts? Suggestions? Update: Got my parts today in the mail. With the help of the Glock Armorer's manual, I was able to remove the old parts & install the new ones, thus saving me $60 in gunsmithing fees! 
While not a HUGE difference in trigger pull from the OEM trigger, it IS nicer & still safe for CCW use (which I use it for). Many thanks to all whom helped me out on this project! 
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It has nothing to do with using it in conjunction with the 3.5 connector. It is a reduced power FP spring, hence the warning. The idea is you could have light firing pin strikes at the "worst possible moment". This is always possible with reduced power FP springs, as you probably know. This is the reason I'd never use one.
You'll get a "lighter" pull with the 3.5 connector alone. If that's what you're after, I'd suggest just goin' with it by itself and see what ya think. |
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It has nothing to do with using it in conjunction with the 3.5 connector. It is a reduced power FP spring, hence the warning. The idea is you could have light firing pin strikes at the "worst possible moment". This is always possible with reduced power FP springs, as you probably know. This is the reason I'd never use one. You'll get a "lighter" pull with the 3.5 connector alone. If that's what you're after, I'd suggest just goin' with it by itself and see what ya think. this^ |
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It has nothing to do with using it in conjunction with the 3.5 connector. It is a reduced power FP spring, hence the warning. The idea is you could have light firing pin strikes at the "worst possible moment". This is always possible with reduced power FP springs, as you probably know. This is the reason I'd never use one. Well, I have had wonderful luck with reduced power springs in my other guns, such as my 92FS. I wouldn't likely ever use one for my CCW w/o hundreds of rds of testing with 110% ignition. You'll get a "lighter" pull with the 3.5 connector alone. If that's what you're after, I'd suggest just goin' with it by itself and see what ya think.
Looks like I'll take your advice. What about the "competition" disconnector spring they also sell? Get it along with the disconnect or what? |
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Not sure what ya mean by "disconnector spring", Glocks have connectors, not disconnectors..................  .Bad wording on my part. 
Here: http://glockparts.com/store/item/gzng/Trigger_Springs/Competition_Trigger_Spring.html It's a "trigger spring". |
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Oh, I see.
Might as well try it. As it is STRONGER than the stock trigger spring, it's pulling back on the trigger with more force than the stock spring, therefore should lighten the pull even more. I'd say that with the 3.5 connector should give you a very light trigger, that bein' what you're after. |
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I'd say that with the 3.5 connector should give you a very light trigger, that bein' what you're after. Well, I'm not after a "lighter" trigger per se as much as I just wish to minimize the "mush" level of the OEM trigger. Obviously with the Glock design, the mush will never completely go away & I understand that. |
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I'd say that with the 3.5 connector should give you a very light trigger, that bein' what you're after. Well, I'm not after a "lighter" trigger per se as much as I just wish to minimize the "mush" level of the OEM trigger. Obviously with the Glock design, the mush will never completely go away & I understand that. Absolutely. I'm always telling people they're not target guns................ain't no SIG P-210, ya know? 
But yeah, that combination should take out some of the "mush". I'm bettin' you'll like this setup. I'm a NY1 trigger spring guy, for my Glocks, but that's a different story............gives me a solid 7-8lb pull, with very strong reset. |
| Well in my honest opinion, IF you must carry and want a lighter trigger, practice a hell of a lot with it. I go to the range as often as i can and put at least 150 rounds through my glock 26 with 3.5 connector. Everytime someone asks to shoot it, i hear.......bang....damn... i wasnt expecting it to go off that fast. I say if you wanna do it, maybe you should practice. Ill probably leave my g30SF with the factory trigger, its gonna replace my g26 for ccw. |
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Well in my honest opinion, IF you must carry and want a lighter trigger, practice a hell of a lot with it. Oh, no doubt. I shoot IPSC with two CZ's that have a 3lb & a 2lb trigger. I also shoot a S&W Model 52 that has about a 1-1/2lb trigger, so I'm no stranger to a real light trigger. Obviously I don't want something as light as those for a CCW gun, but that 3 to 3-1/2lb range would work with me w/o any issues, IMO. |
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All you need is a 3.5# connector and a Competition Trigger Spring for a lighter and crisper trigger.
3.5# Connector: I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and Lone Wolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with less takeup and overtravel. You can get it from Glockparts for $13 HERE. Comp Trigger Spring: The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and because the spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, the higher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts has them for $5 LINK. ETA: While you’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job by following the instructions HERE. Its really quite simple to do and you’ll be pleased with the results. For instructions on replacing your connector and trigger spring, as well as disassembling your Glock, check out Top Glock's Tech Page HERE. Just click on the link for the assembly you want to work with and they give instructions with photos to help you do it. Glocks are simple to work on so give it a try. |
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Well, I bit the bullet & bought the 3.5lb connector & competition spring. Should be here sometime sext week & I'll no doubt be back asking how I managed to FUBAR the installation...............
Y'all keep checking back in for the hilarity that's certain to ensue. 
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I use the 3.5# in all my Glocks, for CCW and Target. Practice is very important. Would I recommend a 3.5# for a noob?. Absolutely NOT!. I shoot IDPA every week and in the summer more. 5,000 rounds a year min. Practice, practice. I also was concerned with a light strike. I have talked to a few armors and they have stated that as long as you stay away from NATO ammo I should be fine. Winchester, Remington like ammo will be fine. I reload, and I use Winchester primers and have had zero light strikes.
King |
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I use the 3.5# in all my Glocks, for CCW and Target. Practice is very important. Would I recommend a 3.5# for a noob?. Absolutely NOT!. I shoot IDPA every week and in the summer more. 5,000 rounds a year min. Practice, practice. I also was concerned with a light strike. I have talked to a few armors and they have stated that as long as you stay away from NATO ammo I should be fine. Winchester, Remington like ammo will be fine. I reload, and I use Winchester primers and have had zero light strikes. King Why would you ever get light strikes due to a 3.5 connector? That wouldn't cause light strikes, a lighter-than-stock FP spring would be the issue. Right on Bob Cole, sounds good. I don't think you'll have any trouble putting them in. If ya do, of course, just ask.
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I recently bought a Glock 20 & wish to convert it to the 3.5lb trigger group. While at the Glock Parts store, I saw this spring: http://glockparts.com/store/item/gh9u/Springs_Spring_Kits/4lb_Firing_Pin_Spring_Not_for_Duty_or_Carry.html They specifically mention "not for carry use". Is this merely lawyer speak, or is there a damn good reason to not use this with the 3.5 disconnect? My biggest gripe with the Glock line is the mushy trigger feel. I don't want to spend a lot of $$, but I tend to belive the 3.5lb system might be right up my alley. Thoughts? Suggestions? Update: Got my parts today in the mail. With the help of the Glock Armorer's manual, I was able to remove the old parts & install the new ones, thus saving me $60 in gunsmithing fees! 
While not a HUGE difference in trigger pull from the OEM trigger, it IS nicer & still safe for CCW use (which I use it for). Many thanks to all whom helped me out on this project!  Well, glad to hear you found a trigger pull ya like, my friend! Very good sir. And always very fulfilling when you can do the mods yourself. Methinks there's a reason some 'smiths hate Glocks.
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This may sound crazy but this is my experience.
Try an 8lb connector. I have an all stock 21 and a police surplus 19 with the + connector and I can't perceive any difference in pull weight but the increased angle of + connector seems to make the trigger stiffer/crisper at the break point not just heavy overall which it isn't. |
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This may sound crazy but this is my experience. Well, call ME crazy, but they rate the 3.5lb & 8lb connectors for a reason. If I didn't care much for the 5lb OEM connector, I'm failing to see how I would like the 8lb cousin. The new 3.5lb trigger feels just right to me with dry firing, so far.
(Not to belittle your opinion or input!) |
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Well you said wanted to eliminate the mushiness not lighten it. To my feeling the 3.5lb connectors do lighten the pull up but the break point becomes less defined and thus enhances the mushy feel to me since it's harder to find the break.
Here's a drill to try with a couple empty glocks ( I've tried it on a 8, 5, & 3.5 all side by side). Try slapping the trigger right to the break point without dropping the striker like 20 times as fast as you can... Bet you accidentally drop the striker way more on the 3.5 and slightly less on the 5 and very few on the 8 because of the mushiness in the breaking points. |