Posted: 6/4/2008 6:01:28 AM EDT
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I'm a new Glock 19 owner, (my 1st pistol). After shooting at the range I brought it home, field stripped it according to the manual, then I turned the top half of the pistol and layed it on it's back and sprayed it with CLP, I scrubbed it with a nylon brush, dried it with a rag and gun swabs. But this morning I read a little further in the manual and it appears as though I shouldn't have used that much lubricant. The CLP is now down in places that can't be accessed without taking it apart further, but If I take it apart further am I harming anything, and what about the warranty if I take it apart more. What should I do? |
Shake it out. Shoot it. Don't worry about it. And never admit to reading a manual or your MANCARD will be suspended. 
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If you don't have the knowledge to disassemble it further, you can try using an air compressor or canned air to blow the majority of the CLP out of the firing pin channel and debris hole. Or, you can find someone who can detail-strip the gun for you. 8 lube points, 8 lube points, 8 lube points...no more, no less! :) |
Lube on a Glock? 
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That's funny. I've never read the manual before, but the Glock rep who did the range day for the PD told us to ignore anything else we read and there's only one lube point. The PD ended up going with M&P's anyway.
My Gen 1 G17 went through a 3-day Bruce Gray class, 1700 rounds, without any lubing or cleaning. Someone who was using an HK P7 forgot his cleaning kit, so I gave him mine to use. I figured he'd need it a lot more than I would! |
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Over oiling any pistol could get you killed! Got your attention didn't I? Too much oil in the firing pin is bad. When the pistol is in a holster, the oil will run down the firing pin and pool on the primer. The oil can soak into the case and destroy the powder or primer. What this means is if you need your weapon RIGHT NOW, you may pull the trigger and just get a click. A little compressed air or computer duster stuff in the can work great to blow out the extra oil. |
I thought it was an issue with gunking up the striker channel, not killing a primer. The oil will collect debris in the channel and could foul it to the point of malfunction. Regardless of the reason, oil in the striker channel = bad. For the OP: there are quite a few sources online for detail stripping a Glock (very simple). You can find a how-to on removing the plate on the back of the slide and removing the striker. I prefer to use grease (Tetra) on my guns, especially handguns. I will rub it into the metal and then add a little extra dab. For some I'll use oil, but grease is my mainstay. As long as it isn't globbed on it won't collect fouling and it won't migrate like oil. |
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Which rep did you have? All of our reps (four in total that we've had), and the Armorer's course instructor all lubricated in the same fashion... 1 drop on the underside of the slide where the barrel is 1 drop on the connector 1 drop on the locking lug 1 drop on each frame rail (total of 4) 1 drop on barrel, distributed over whole outside length of the barrel 8 total...straight from the manual. That said...they can and will run dry...been there, tested that theory. Dirty, Dry...Well Lubed...they run and run and run. The only place that you really need to keep any goo from going into is the debris hole and firing pin/striker channel (whatever you want to call it)...that's where that gummy crap people have talked about comes from. Good Luck ! |
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To the OP here is all you need to know. Downloadable Glock factory armorers manual |
See thats exactly why i ran a few mags of my 230 gr lead reloads threw my new 21 as soon as i got home. Later that evening while bored i looked at the manual and found out that was a no no 
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Thanks MARSH1 for the manual. I got it apart and cleaned, It was a snap. Now the lower half of the glock, I've been using action blaster on that because I don't want to take that apart. I've never over lubricated the lower.. so is action blaster ok to use? It sure works great.. |