Posted: 3/21/2007 9:03:34 PM EDT
| I was talking to a local gun shop, and the guy said its really easy to install, can someone please show me or tell me how to change the slide release? Thanks post pics of "how To" if you can |
Watch the following video: click here ETA: whoops he goes through the reassembly in FF.  another link Basically you can tap the bottom pin out far enough (left to right) to release the slide stop lever, remove it, replace with the new stop lever, and replace the pin. For pete's sake, don't use a big hammer. 
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Stand by for pics 1. unload the thing 2. double check it's unloaded and seperate the frame from the slide as seen in videos 3. grab a punch and mallet. You'll only need to drive out the bottom pin on the frame. You don't even have to drive it completely out. This pin:  4. drive the pin partially out from left to right:  5. remove the slide stop by pulling it rearward and up. Here, note the slot the slide stop rests in:  6. replace with the aftermarket slide stop in the same slot. Align the holes and drive the pin back into place. 7. assemble the weapon and check it for proper function. Hope that helps. 
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BIG +1 on that. Wiggle the slide stop up and down while pushing the pin from the left to the right, and it will slide right out. Put it back in from right to left. |
You're correct they can be removed without using a mallet. Educate me if you will. What damage is done my tapping the pin out? Does is loosen the fit over time or what? ETA: I watched the armorers disk again and you guys are correct. The correct way to remove this pin is as described above: pressing left to right while wiggling the slide stop. My bad guys. Thank you for correcting me. I emailed and IMd the OP.
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Taping or pounding on anything, even concrete will damage it over time. I've seen countless bent trigger pins, bent slide stop levers, triggers that were damaged and a couple receivers that the trigger pin would not stay in the receiver when placed part way in the trigger pin hole. If you place the receiver on a roll of duct-tape, right side down, remove the locking block pin FIRST, lift the slide stop lever and move it forward and backward(as stated by GSD17) and applying pressure to the pin(#3) with a punch, the trigger pin will slide out. Now if you have a very new receiver and the pin wants to be a pain, then while you are moving the lever in and out, move it up and down at the same time. I have never had a pin that would not come out when using this method.  Be sure to put the locking block pin in before you install the slide stop lever as this will put the lever spring in the correct position. ETA: This is how it is done at the factory 
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Just cracking the can of worms here... I do not like the hand-over-slide racking method, I prefer to use the slide stop to release the slide. I have never had a problem with the method. I actually shot "Top Gun" with my G22 in the academy using the standard slide stop, using the slide stop release method. Using the hand over method takes you off of your point of aim for just a split second longer after a combat reload. Your mileage may vary. It is everyones opinion which is better, each way works better or worse for different person. That said, when I was shooting in the academy, I still had the standard slide stop. It was July, and in the state of Georgia... yeah, between the heat, trying to beat out all the people that were so cocky about winning Top Gun (I never made a mention that I was gonna try for it) and the pressure to qualify so I didn't get kicked out of the academy and lose my job, I was sweating alot. It made it very very hard to operate the slide stop lever with my thumb in a quick fashion. So when I went to GLOCK one day and asked them to install some night sights (I would have done it myself, but I wanted to go to GLOCK, and I was close one day, and on my dept.'s time and gas) I asked the armorer what an extended slide stop would cost me, he said he would check. Came back about 40 mins later... he had installed my GLOCK night sights, an extended slide stop lever, test fired, and detail cleaned my pistol... cost was $58.00. Shooting it in similar conditions now, is much much easier, because you have a small mass to press down, without having to rely on horizontal pressure and vertical pressure on the slide stop lever at the same time like you do with the standard one. BTW, I prefer GLOCK brand night sights for several reasons, but that is another thread entirely, I'll go into it if someone just has to know.. |
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Great illustration, but, per Hotrod, absolutely HORRIBLEinformation. All that's needed to replace the SLIDE STOP LEVER is a punch smaller than the diameter of the trigger pin hole. While jiggling the SLIDE STOP LEVERfore and aft, slowly push the pin left-to-right, just enough to remove the SLIDE STOP LEVER. Replace the SLIDE STOP LEVER with the new SLIDE STOP LEVERand push the pin back in, right-to-left, jiggling the new SLIDE STOP LEVER fore and aft as you push. |
OK, if you are correct, then why does Glock supply an Extended Slide Stop on their G34 & G35s that are designed to be used in competition? The facts are that depressing the Slide Stop is a perfectly acceptable method for releasing the slide. Gaston designed it to be used that way.
The reason that this is such terrible advice is that following it will damage your Glock. Nothing on your Glock requires a mallet to remove. If you feel you need one to remove something, you are doing it wrong and could likely damage your Glock. The reason why you must wiggle the Slide Stop Lever while pushing on the pin is that the pin has a grove in it where the hole of the Slide Stop Lever engages. Pounding out the pin will damage the Slide Stop Lever and possibly your frame.
Why spend the $30 when all you need to do is go to Top Glock's Technical Section and view the illustrated instructions for the task you are contemplating for free? |
If you had the book you would know that the online link you posted is incomplete and not totally accurate. But that is the difference in having some of the best in the industry proof a book versus someone just taking pictures and writing some text.
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A Glock is simple to disassemble. I've not found any errors in the examples shown on TopGlock. I've completely dissembled my Glocks many times (including replacing the channel liner once) without needing to buy and read a $30 book. The info I picked up on Glock Talk and internet sources was enough, however, I've owned and tinkered with firearms for close to 50 years and was both an Armorer and Weapons Instructor in the Army. BTW, I found this a few years ago on the internet and don't remember who worked it up but I think it will give anyone with some mechanical aptitude a very good idea of what they have and how it goes together. This picture and a basic understanding of firearms is all one really needs to figure out your Glock.  Note the 2 groves in the trigger pin. The Slide Stop lever engages one of them and that is why you don't want to pound the pin out. |
Learned that the hard way long ago. I was not too bad of though, I only had to replace the slide stop with another. That was the reason I just said f*ck it and got the extended version. |
No offense but that is what separates those that know and those that guess about how something is supposed to be. The first link I clicked on at TopGlock had an error and the second link left out some critical details in reassembly. The G17 you pictured is a 2002 and newer. |
I know quite a bit about Glocks; more than most. If there are any errors in their discussion, for the average Joe who is learning, their discussion is just fine. It gets them to a basic understanding which is all it intends to do. And yes, I know that the diagram is of a newer, 3rd Gen Glock G17. You see, besides completely disassembling my Glocks just to see how they were built and function, comparing them to the other weapons that I've taught others about, I have done a fair amount of custom work on mine as well as on many other weapons over the last 50 years of my hobby. I understand how they work, why they work, and why they are designed the way they are. As a recent example of what I've done, I invented the G20/21L. Except for the Hard Chrome slide re-finishing below, everything on my Glocks I've done myself. I don't buy a custom weapon from someone, I develop and build it myself. All the development, all the testing, and all the modifications. My new stock G21 started it's journey when I converted it with a custom 6" slide I built up back in 2004.  Then I got the idea to try a conversion to 10mm. I did a bunch of extractor testing with my slide and mocked up the 10mm barrel for fit checks and breachface testing.  Here is my evaluation of the different G21 extractor types and modifications.  After that, I discussed my idea with Kevin at KKM and paid him to make his 1st ever 45-10MM barrel. This is it in the 1st ever G21L a couple minutes after I installed the barrel.  This is the 1st ever picture of a G20/21L.  And here is what it looks like since I updated it to a USPSA "Limited" configuration. (No such class as Glock doesn't make a stock G20 or 21 Longslide. I just like the new look). BTW, the rounded trigger guard was easier than I thought it would be.   No offense, but tell me, How many custom, one of a kind Glocks have you developed, tested, and built yourself? I know. I do not guess. |