Posted: 5/2/2006 10:42:12 PM EDT
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Can you weld to a glock trigger bar? I was thinking of adding material to the top of one, then sanding it down so that the trigger bar is always held a little lower in the frame. They dont cost much, and I just wanna see how it feels for a competition gun. It should shorten the length of the second stage of mush and I might have to shave out a little clearance in the trigger housing. whats it made of anyway. |
| It's basically stamped sheet metal. Idon't think you can weld on it, but I'n not sure. But I don't think what you are proposing would work anyway. That trigger bar controls or interacts with the firing pin safety and the firing pin, and the drop safety, and the connector. If you make it so it doesn't move as much, the gun won't work. The second stage mush is caused by the firing pin safety being depressed. How would the trigger bar sitting lower eliminate that? |
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Don't weld. As HK53 mentioned, the trigger bar is complex and articulates with 4 components (trigger, firing pin safety plunger, connector, and striker). See the bit of the cruciform--where it pushes the striker back? As you push the trigger, the bar pushes the striker back as it slides down the little striker tang (or whatever the hell you call it). The second stage release feel, is in part composed of the feel of the trigger bar sliding down the striker tang (The other components of the second stage release are the striker spring weight, and the angle of the connector--heavy and crisp, standard or light and mushy depending on connector). If you can reduce the interaction of the trigger bar and striker just a small bit, you'll have shorter and crisper second stage break. See how the back up the cruciform is bent upward slightly? Decrease that angle by half. Just invert it on some steel and use a wide punch to flatten the angle out a bit. Only do this if you have the orange slide cover plate on to make sure you have atleast one sheet metal thickness of overlap, and to disconnect when you screw it up (otherwise you won't be able to disassemble your pistol). Don't do this if you don't completely understand the interaction (which I don't believe you do at this time), and don't round off the surfaces. Otherwise you may dump a mag into the ceiling of your range full auto.  An equally simple and important area to look at is the interaction of the firing pin safety and the trigger bar. I do 3 modifications here to lighten and smooth the first stage. (Modify spring, curve the edge of the FPS, and slightly round off the trigger bar where it slides on the FPS). If you remove too much material on the FPS or the trigger bar the FPS may not dissengage fully on release, blocking the forward moving striker. Another thing you can look at is overtravel and 4# striker springs. Happy Glocking. 
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I understand how everything works together as far as I know. I was proposing to lower the rear of the trigger bar SLIGHTLY by adding material to the top of it at the rear only where it goes in the trigger housing. This seems like it would delay the second stage a little longer since the trigger bar is sitting lower and would contact the disconnector lower than normal and later than normal as it is moved to the rear. All the while, the total rearward travel of the striker is not changed. The second stage would start later, but finish in the same spot. So the second stage would be shorter. Putting a SMALL set screw in the top of the trigger housing so that it contacts the top of the trigger bar would accomplish the same thing, but I dont know if drilling and tapping the plastic trigger housing is a good idea. Wouldnt flattening out the top crook inthe trigger bar a little just cause the trigger bar to release the striker sooner (before its pushed all the way to the rear). Sure thats shortening the second stage and has no effect on when the first stage ends and second begins, but I dont like the idea of relaeasing the striker early even though it shortens the reset distance. This would also introduce overtravel that you would have to take out some way or another or just live with. Im no Glock amourer, just a curious idiot throwing an idea around and trying understand how people DO modify glock triggers. |
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If you add material to the top rear of the trigger bar to "lower it", you may also have to build up the firing pin safety bump, otherwise the firing pin could be blocked by the FPS. You would also have to reconfigure the drop safety and notch. Reducing the angled piece of the cruciform area does not appreciably shorten the travel of the striker. We're talking maybe a 5% angle change, and a fraction of a milimeter difference. Changing between a 5 and 3.5 connector (or whatever the hell they're calling them now) also minutely affects the total difference the striker travels. |