Posted: 11/9/2015 6:06:43 PM EDT
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It is my understanding that a glock, while cocked, is a safe weapon so long as the trigger is not pulled. This post is not to start any arguments over safety features. I want to understand the safe action better so I can answer questions for a new shooter. It is my understanding that as the trigger is depressed (which can only happen if the trigger safety is depressed) the firing pin block and spring loaded plunger are moved out of the striker channel, and simultaneously the striker/firing pin are released. If my understanding is correct, there is no single part failure that alone can cause the gun to discharge without the trigger being pulled. If there were to be a failure in the striker mechanism which released the striker from its partially cocked position, the firing pin block would block the striker. If the firing pin block were to fail the striker would still be held in place by the drop safety. So, in order for the gun to experience a total failure that results in a discharge, two parts would have to fail simultaneously (the drop safety and the firing pin block). Please correct me if I am wrong in my thoughts or terminology. Really looking to understand the mechanisms gun better and need some clarification from some videos and diagrams I have seen. |
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Yep
nothing is going to snap and cause the weapon to discharge there are probably more glocks on belts with rounds chambered in this country than any other brand. Glock ND's are the result of brain farts, and/or bad training. Keep your dick skinners off the trigger, and all will by fine 
.edit...changed AD to ND
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Here's an explanation of the Glock safeties.
The firing pin is held in place by the trigger bar (the rear edge of the cruciform on the trigger bar), not the drop safety. The drop safety is the shape of the channel in the trigger mechanism housing that the trigger bar rides in which prevents the firing pin from slipping off the trigger bar if the gun is dropped. 
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Quoted: Here's an explanation of the Glock safeties. The firing pin is held in place by the trigger bar (the rear edge of the cruciform on the trigger bar), not the drop safety. The drop safety is the shape of the channel in the trigger mechanism housing that the trigger bar rides in which prevents the firing pin from slipping off the trigger bar if the gun is dropped. http://i.imgur.com/6IhaCvj.jpg |
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Quoted:
but a faulty part can allow the gun to go off. but thats mostly with aftermarket parts no it can't. the same rules apply to aftermarket parts. you'd need the trigger bar to allow the striker to let go in addition to the striker safety to fail. you'd still need multiple parts to fail or malfunction at the same time. |
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In a prior era, holsters exposed the trigger guard area. People pulled the trigger while drawing and shot themselves.
Today, holsters cover the trigger guard. People still shoot themselves because they put their trigger finger on the trigger while holstering and the leather avtivates their finger to depress the trigger. Mr. Murphy always has a way for idiots and the unaware and the un-careful to do the un- necessary. |
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Quoted:
Now we are starting to get some differing opinions. If anyone else cares to voice their opinion I'm all ears. They're talking about using faulty aftermarket parts, not factory stock Glocks. I haven't read that crazy long flat trigger thread, anyone have cliff notes? |
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Quoted:
Now we are starting to get some differing opinions. If anyone else cares to voice their opinion I'm all ears. This is all a result of non factory parts and mods. Leave your gun alone (or at most replace factory parts with factory parts) and you won't have a problem. Remember this is a GLOCK. If you want a custom match grade tuned trigger, you should get a 1911. Don't try to make your GLOCK and 1911. You can learn to shoot combat-effectively with a factory trigger (try a - connector and/or a NY1 spring). That's your 4 trigger options. |
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Quoted:
They're talking about using faulty aftermarket parts, not factory stock Glocks. I haven't read that crazy long flat trigger thread, anyone have cliff notes? Quoted:
Quoted:
Now we are starting to get some differing opinions. If anyone else cares to voice their opinion I'm all ears. They're talking about using faulty aftermarket parts, not factory stock Glocks. I haven't read that crazy long flat trigger thread, anyone have cliff notes? Cliff Notes - Pre-travel is required. It's necessary for the firing pin and drop safety to work. Without Pre-travel they become disabled. |
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Quoted:
Yep nothing is going to snap and cause the weapon to discharge there are probably more glocks on belts with rounds chambered in this country than any other brand. Glock AD's are the result of brain farts, and/or bad training. Keep your dick skinners off the trigger, and all will by fine
. Go ahead and call them NDs instead of ADs and I'll agree. ADs are where the gun is dropped, banged, or goes off without touching the trigger. NDs are a training issue. There's a reason it's "glock leg" and it's guys who can't keep their booger hooks off the trigger when drawing and holstering a weapon. having a manual external safety lessens this as it gives one more step, but the poor training causes it. A manual safety just masks some of the errors. Too bad you can't slap new shooters when they do something stupid the first time and prevent it happening again later, might reduce some of the NDs. |
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Quoted:
Go ahead and call them NDs instead of ADs and I'll agree. ADs are where the gun is dropped, banged, or goes off without touching the trigger. NDs are a training issue. There's a reason it's "glock leg" and it's guys who can't keep their booger hooks off the trigger when drawing and holstering a weapon. having a manual external safety lessens this as it gives one more step, but the poor training causes it. A manual safety just masks some of the errors. Too bad you can't slap new shooters when they do something stupid the first time and prevent it happening again later, might reduce some of the NDs. Quoted:
Quoted:
Yep nothing is going to snap and cause the weapon to discharge there are probably more glocks on belts with rounds chambered in this country than any other brand. Glock AD's are the result of brain farts, and/or bad training. Keep your dick skinners off the trigger, and all will by fine
. Go ahead and call them NDs instead of ADs and I'll agree. ADs are where the gun is dropped, banged, or goes off without touching the trigger. NDs are a training issue. There's a reason it's "glock leg" and it's guys who can't keep their booger hooks off the trigger when drawing and holstering a weapon. having a manual external safety lessens this as it gives one more step, but the poor training causes it. A manual safety just masks some of the errors. Too bad you can't slap new shooters when they do something stupid the first time and prevent it happening again later, might reduce some of the NDs. so are we going to start calling it M&P leg now since many of those are without an external safety? |
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Quoted:
so are we going to start calling it M&P leg now since many of those are without an external safety? Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Yep nothing is going to snap and cause the weapon to discharge there are probably more glocks on belts with rounds chambered in this country than any other brand. Glock AD's are the result of brain farts, and/or bad training. Keep your dick skinners off the trigger, and all will by fine
. Go ahead and call them NDs instead of ADs and I'll agree. ADs are where the gun is dropped, banged, or goes off without touching the trigger. NDs are a training issue. There's a reason it's "glock leg" and it's guys who can't keep their booger hooks off the trigger when drawing and holstering a weapon. having a manual external safety lessens this as it gives one more step, but the poor training causes it. A manual safety just masks some of the errors. Too bad you can't slap new shooters when they do something stupid the first time and prevent it happening again later, might reduce some of the NDs. so are we going to start calling it M&P leg now since many of those are without an external safety? |
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Quoted:
Cliff Notes - Pre-travel is required. It's necessary for the firing pin and drop safety to work. Without Pre-travel they become disabled. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Now we are starting to get some differing opinions. If anyone else cares to voice their opinion I'm all ears. They're talking about using faulty aftermarket parts, not factory stock Glocks. I haven't read that crazy long flat trigger thread, anyone have cliff notes? Cliff Notes - Pre-travel is required. It's necessary for the firing pin and drop safety to work. Without Pre-travel they become disabled. Essentially this, and it's not really faulty parts in that they were designed as such. Several of the aftermarket triggers are designed to mechanically shorten pretravel, which means that the safety plunger is already partially depressed and the rear of the trigger bar is closer to falling off of the safety shelf. In this condition one good drop can cause enough movement in the trigger bar to fully depress the safety plunger and drop the rear of the trigger bar off of the safety shelf, releasing the striker and causing the weapon to fire. People have argued that this is impossible, and manufacturers have said that it is the case only in defective guns, but it has happened to at least one person in the flat trigger thread. Thankfully this occurred in a controlled test with a primed case and not a live round in the chamber, but it still happened. Theoretically this can be at least partially remedied by bending the rear of the cruciform up so that it more fully engages the striker foot, but I don't remember that anyone has tried it with success. Pretravel is your friend. |
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Isn't it true that the striker is not fully cocked until you pull the trigger? Unlike the xd and mnp which is fully cocked. yep, as you pull the glock trigger, your pulling the firing pin striker the rest of the way rearward and clearing the plunger to allow it to strike the primer |
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yep, as you pull the glock trigger, your pulling the firing pin striker the rest of the way rearward and clearing the plunger to allow it to strike the primer Quoted:
Quoted:
Isn't it true that the striker is not fully cocked until you pull the trigger? Unlike the xd and mnp which is fully cocked. yep, as you pull the glock trigger, your pulling the firing pin striker the rest of the way rearward and clearing the plunger to allow it to strike the primer That's what I thought. So then why would these other guys say it won't be drop safe if aftermarket trigger? I understand less pre travel but if the striker isn't fully cocked shouldn't it be drop safe because of that? |
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This is all a result of non factory parts and mods. Leave your gun alone (or at most replace factory parts with factory parts) and you won't have a problem. Remember this is a GLOCK. If you want a custom match grade tuned trigger, you should get a 1911. Don't try to make your GLOCK and 1911. You can learn to shoot combat-effectively with a factory trigger (try a - connector and/or a NY1 spring). That's your 4 trigger options. Quoted:
Quoted:
Now we are starting to get some differing opinions. If anyone else cares to voice their opinion I'm all ears. This is all a result of non factory parts and mods. Leave your gun alone (or at most replace factory parts with factory parts) and you won't have a problem. Remember this is a GLOCK. If you want a custom match grade tuned trigger, you should get a 1911. Don't try to make your GLOCK and 1911. You can learn to shoot combat-effectively with a factory trigger (try a - connector and/or a NY1 spring). That's your 4 trigger options. Yea right. If your new stock four wheel drive pickup comes with street tires you should leave those on there too? If the factory sold it that way it must be best? Is that the logic we're using here? Who's trying to make a Glock with a "custom match grade tuned trigger" ? Who says the OP wants just a combat effective gun? We wont even touch on the inherent disadvantages of a custom tuned match grade 1911. There are lots of reasonable and safe modifications that can be done to make a Glock trigger better without rendering them unsafe. First off polish the trigger bar. Google 25cent Glock trigger job. Polish the safety plunger also. Add a heavy trigger spring, a lighter plunger spring, and if that still doesn't float your boat, add a custom connector of your choice. These things will all improve the feel of your trigger without taking out any of the safety except a lighter trigger pull which isn't any more dangerous if you don't pull the trigger when you don't intend to shoot. |