Posted: 7/25/2015 5:10:42 PM EDT
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Just installed a lone wolf 3.5 trigger, and aftermarket back plate, and noticed my slide seems a little far back. I've attacked images to show what I'm talking about.
http://imgur.com/a/p0JSD Glock 30s is fairly new maybe 500 rounds out of it. But I just noticed the slide position seems off. Is this normal? If not what can I do to fix it? Thanks |
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Just installed a lone wolf 3.5 trigger, and aftermarket back plate, and noticed my slide seems a little far back. I've attacked (sic) images to show what I'm talking about. imgur.com/a/p0JSD * Glock 30 is fairly new maybe 500 rounds out of it. But I just noticed the slide position seems off. Is this normal? If not what can I do to fix it? Thanks INTERNET GUNSMITHING, YOU GOT 'A LOVE IT 
(1) If your slide really is, 'off' I suspect that you’ve either used the wrong trigger bar; or the recoil guide rod is, for whatever reason(s), out of its correct position. Are you talking about the, 'trigger'; (Which means you changed the entire trigger bar, Glock Part #26) or did you just change the, ''connector'', Glock Part #24? (2) Have you fired that G-30 since making these changes? (3) Does it cycle properly by hand? (4) Have you been paying attention to whether or not the slide fully returns to battery? (5) After I posted the Imgur site decided to work; and, now, I can see your pictures. Something inside that Glock isn't set up correctly. (6) What's that coil trigger spring doing lying on your bench? Is it an extra; or is it a leftover from after you got that Glock put back together, again? 
(7) I strongly suggest you do NOT attempt to fire (or continue to fire) that Glock with live ammunition until AFTER this mystery is solved - OK! * (I fixed that broken link for ya!) |
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I have not fired it and do not plan on going until fixed!
I installed guide rod or what ever its called lol and spare spring. I will change back plate later and see if that helps. Guide rod is in properly and everything is working when I rack the slide and ect. On phone so sorry for poor format |
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Flipped it around and seems much better. I'm using an extended slide release too so I must of done it backwards when I did. Thanks Out of curiosity, when you say, 'extended slide release' are you referring to Glock Part #21, an extended, 'slide lock'; or are you referring to Glock Part #27, an extended, 'slide stop/release'? I'd still like to know what that Glock, coil-type, trigger spring (Glock Part #25) is doing on your bench? Where's it from? Just curious, thanks! 
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Out of curiosity, when you say, 'extended slide release' are you referring to Glock Part #21, an extended, 'slide lock'; or are you referring to Glock Part #27, an extended, 'slide stop/release'? I'd still like to know what that Glock, coil-type, trigger spring (Glock Part #25) is doing on your bench? Where's it from? Just curious, thanks! Quoted:
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Flipped it around and seems much better. I'm using an extended slide release too so I must of done it backwards when I did. Thanks Out of curiosity, when you say, 'extended slide release' are you referring to Glock Part #21, an extended, 'slide lock'; or are you referring to Glock Part #27, an extended, 'slide stop/release'? I'd still like to know what that Glock, coil-type, trigger spring (Glock Part #25) is doing on your bench? Where's it from? Just curious, thanks! Well, he did say he swapped the connector, maybe a new trigger spring as well? |
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OEM rod is plastic on one end and metal on the other. It's not installed backwards. Quoted:
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Guide rod looks backwards. If it's designed like an OEM rod the forward end should be rounded. The flat end rests against the locking lug. OEM rod is plastic on one end and metal on the other. It's not installed backwards. Didn't realize the 30s used that style assembly. |
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Well, he did say he swapped the connector, maybe a new trigger spring as well? Quoted:
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Just curious, thanks! Well, he did say he swapped the connector, maybe a new trigger spring as well? Yeah, I'm trying to figure out what actually happened here; and, at the same time, I've been encouraging the OP to use the correct nomenclature for the various Glock parts; so that we can, all, follow along more easily.
My best guesses? I think that G-30 was taken down farther than it needed to be in order to install either a new connector, or trigger bar. I suspect that the SLIDE LOCK was reversed when it was reinserted; and, amazingly, the trigger spring was omitted from the THU when the trigger bar was reinstalled. (It wouldn't surprise me in the least if that trigger spring has, now, been returned to the pistol in the shape of a, 'Z' rather than in the correct shape of an, 'S' as it should be; but, I'm only guessing based on what I've seen so far.) With the barrel set back against an improperly installed slide lock the slide wouldn't be able to close to its full forward position; and this would cause the RSA to protrude from the the slide face underneath the barrel. (The breech might appear to be fully closed and locked; but, really, it would not be.) Glock pistols are REAL GUNS; and wannabe-armorers should resist the temptation to play with them. I do not know why that G-30's slide plate cover is protruding so far to the rear? I don't own a G-30; so I've nothing to compare it to. Might just be a characteristic of all G-30 frames. Like I said: I don't know? There are several different trigger bar assemblies for various G-30's; and a wrong trigger bar might have contributed to the OP's problem; so I thought to mention the TB, as well. When everything is said and done, who knows? A thread like this should be answered as well as possible for everyone's benefit, and not just for the OP alone. |
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Yeah, I'm trying to figure out what actually happened here; and, at the same time, I've been encouraging the OP to use the correct nomenclature for the various Glock parts; so that we can, all, follow along more easily.
My best guesses? I think that G-30 was taken down farther than it needed to be in order to install either a new connector, or trigger bar. I suspect that the SLIDE LOCK was reversed when it was reinserted; and, amazingly, the trigger spring was omitted from the THU when the trigger bar was reinstalled. (It wouldn't surprise me in the least if that trigger spring has, now, been returned to the pistol in the shape of a, 'Z' rather than in the correct shape of an, 'S' as it should be; but, I'm only guessing based on what I've seen so far.) With the barrel set back against an improperly installed slide lock the slide wouldn't be able to close to its full forward position; and this would cause the RSA to protrude from the the slide face underneath the barrel. (The breech might appear to be fully closed and locked; but, really, it would not be.) Glock pistols are REAL GUNS; and wannabe-armorers should resist the temptation to play with them. I do not know why that G-30's slide plate cover is protruding so far to the rear? I don't own a G-30; so I've nothing to compare it to. Might just be a characteristic of all G-30 frames. Like I said: I don't know? There are several different trigger bar assemblies for various G-30's; and a wrong trigger bar might have contributed to the OP's problem; so I thought to mention the TB, as well. When everything is said and done, who knows? A thread like this should be answered as well as possible for everyone's benefit, and not just for the OP alone. Quoted:
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Just curious, thanks! Well, he did say he swapped the connector, maybe a new trigger spring as well? Yeah, I'm trying to figure out what actually happened here; and, at the same time, I've been encouraging the OP to use the correct nomenclature for the various Glock parts; so that we can, all, follow along more easily.
My best guesses? I think that G-30 was taken down farther than it needed to be in order to install either a new connector, or trigger bar. I suspect that the SLIDE LOCK was reversed when it was reinserted; and, amazingly, the trigger spring was omitted from the THU when the trigger bar was reinstalled. (It wouldn't surprise me in the least if that trigger spring has, now, been returned to the pistol in the shape of a, 'Z' rather than in the correct shape of an, 'S' as it should be; but, I'm only guessing based on what I've seen so far.) With the barrel set back against an improperly installed slide lock the slide wouldn't be able to close to its full forward position; and this would cause the RSA to protrude from the the slide face underneath the barrel. (The breech might appear to be fully closed and locked; but, really, it would not be.) Glock pistols are REAL GUNS; and wannabe-armorers should resist the temptation to play with them. I do not know why that G-30's slide plate cover is protruding so far to the rear? I don't own a G-30; so I've nothing to compare it to. Might just be a characteristic of all G-30 frames. Like I said: I don't know? There are several different trigger bar assemblies for various G-30's; and a wrong trigger bar might have contributed to the OP's problem; so I thought to mention the TB, as well. When everything is said and done, who knows? A thread like this should be answered as well as possible for everyone's benefit, and not just for the OP alone. Only reason I suggested the slide lock, mine (30s) did the same thing after a detailed cleaning, then I realized it was backwards. Flipped it around, and problem solved. These guns are really simple, and unless you bubba them, they aren't too terrible compared to 1911's. As for the comment on the RSA, it's a double spring from the factory. |
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I hate to say, but post like that do not inspire confidence in your gunsmithing abillties. Quoted: Quoted:I installed guide rod or what ever its called lol and spare spring. I hate to say, but post like that do not inspire confidence in your gunsmithing abillties. If we rated gunsmiths via their internet posts, no one would ever dare get custom work done. |
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Only reason I suggested the slide lock, mine (30s) did the same thing after a detailed cleaning, then I realized it was backwards. Flipped it around, and problem solved. These guns are really simple, and unless you bubba them, they aren't too terrible compared to 1911's. As for the comment on the RSA, it's a double spring from the factory. Yeah, all along, that's been my best guess, too. I beg to differ about Glocks being, 'really simple', though. I've been working on them for the past 13 years; and, in my experience, little mistakes on a Glock can cause big problems.
Sometimes the factory, itself, will create the problem; e.g.: a faulty, 'bird's head' design on the rear of the trigger bar, a striker safety cam that's incorrectly positioned at the front of the trigger bar (as on: 1st, 2nd, and early 3rd generation G-21's, 30's, 20's, & 29's); misaligned magazine wells as on many of the early G-36's; and, as most people know, all of the chamber rebate modifications numerous Glock pistols have gone through. (There's plenty of other, 'factory mistakes'; but the point is made; and I'll stop here.) Simple? No, Glocks aren't, 'simple'.* The Glock discussed here was, 'bubba'd'; and it's important for readers to understand both, 'How' and, 'Why'. I do not agree with the comment that the OP changed, or ever intended to change, the coil trigger spring. Instead the, 'spring' he referred to is, more than likely, the recoil spring assembly. (Which can, still, be installed and twisted-in-place if the assembly notch isn't used properly - I've seen this happen on a G-26.) The point I would make is that, as even a brief perusal of YouTube videos will show, there are a lot of people working away on their Glock pistols who really shouldn't be. I've seen numerous YouTube, 'Glock How to' videos where the home gunsmiths use: knives, hammers, reverse AR15/M4 pin protocol, along with reversed trigger springs, slide locks and striker channel liners. The magazine release springs - Which the factory recommends should be removed as seldom as possible - are freely taken in and out. Then there's excessive oiling, as well as running a Glock in filthy dirty condition simply because, 'it's cool; and you can'. Believe me, I could continue; but I think the point is made: Glocks are NOT simple; and there's a lot of Glock owners out there adding their own parts who really shouldn't be! (Seen any slide stops flopping around lately? How about some guy who's using a hammer to, 'tap in' the #2 trigger pin from the left side?) IT DIDN'T SURPRISE ME, AT ALL, WHEN I SAW THAT TRIGGER SPRING LYING ON THE BENCH - NOT AT ALL! A Glock pistol CAN be operated without a trigger (return) spring, ya know! 
* (We won't even get into all of the, 'Phase 3' problems Nassau Country, and the NYC Police had with THOUSANDS of their G-19's!) |
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Raven is spot on few glock need tinkering to shoot well compared to all the bubba's that mess with them needing fundamental shooting skills
Way to many junior gunsmiths getting inside actions and causing problems. I have said this countless times: The vast majority of glock owners need to master shooting fundamentals and strip no further than basic field stripping and will be much further ahead in shooting well than dropping tons of aftermarket stuff in a pistol. Can after market parts properly in stalled possibly improve the performance of the pistol? Absolutely but not as much as someone who really knows how to shoot one pulling the trigger. |