Posted: 4/1/2015 10:33:07 AM EDT
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After lots of dry firing, I've decided that I simply cannot tolerate the G19's stock trigger. I really wanted to like it, because these pistols are inexpensive and very effective, but I've done far more than given it the old college try. My chief gripe is the break. After a thousand or so dry fires, it is obvious that it is not possible for that trigger to break in such a way that my front sight doesn't jump a bit (this is the cause of pulling shots off target). So that has to end, or the G19 is going out the door.
The last thing I'm willing to try is some trigger changes with the goal is to eliminate that harsh trigger break. I want to solicit opinions of people who have done this, and how much success they've had with it. What I've been looking at doing is putting in an NY1 spring and the factory 3.5lb connector (I believe this is the same connector in the G34). Glock says that this is an acceptable configuration for carry / duty use and it's supposed to be somewhat revolver like. Anyone who has done this, does it do anything to eliminate the harsh break I referred to earlier? |
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Thousands of people have done that..try it and see if you like it. Glock 19 is a carry piece not a 1911... Agreed. But you still be able to shoot it without the entire gun jerking due to harsh trigger break. That's not an unreasonable thing to want in a handgun regardless of its purpose. |
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Agreed. But you still be able to shoot it without the entire gun jerking due to harsh trigger break. That's not an unreasonable thing to want in a handgun regardless of its purpose. Quoted:
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Thousands of people have done that..try it and see if you like it. Glock 19 is a carry piece not a 1911... Agreed. But you still be able to shoot it without the entire gun jerking due to harsh trigger break. That's not an unreasonable thing to want in a handgun regardless of its purpose. Sounds to me like you just need to learn better trigger control, but that's just me. The Glock trigger is far from perfect out the box - but it's definitely shootable. Hundreds of thousands of people shoot bone stock Glocks just fine. |
| Just echoing the sentiments above... a glock is not going to make you look like you are a better shot than you are. I am no grand master or whatever you call someone who is super pro at pistol shooting so I really have to work with my 19 a lot to make sure I'm not getting sloppy with my fundamentals bc if something is off your 19 will make you look bad. With me personally, if I am shooting well, sometimes I'll get it in my head halfway thru a mag that i have got everything down and usually things go south instantly because i drop to a slightly lower level of focus/concentration. There are other guns I can be more lackadaisical with and still have moderate success. May have kinda rambled there but hope i got at least some of my point across. |
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Sounds to me like you just need to learn better trigger control, but that's just me. The Glock trigger is far from perfect out the box - but it's definitely shootable. Hundreds of thousands of people shoot bone stock Glocks just fine. Quoted:
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Thousands of people have done that..try it and see if you like it. Glock 19 is a carry piece not a 1911... Agreed. But you still be able to shoot it without the entire gun jerking due to harsh trigger break. That's not an unreasonable thing to want in a handgun regardless of its purpose. Sounds to me like you just need to learn better trigger control, but that's just me. The Glock trigger is far from perfect out the box - but it's definitely shootable. Hundreds of thousands of people shoot bone stock Glocks just fine. If my trigger control were so bad, I wouldn't be able to ring a 8" steel plate at 50 yards almost every time with a revolver that has a 14lb trigger pull  Not exactly match grade shooting, but not terrible either. I can achieve similar accuracy with literally every single handgun I own except the Glock (including a worn out, 30ish year old CZ-82).
It is true that almost all problems are attributable to shooter error. However, when I get certain results with every handgun I own except one, it strongly implies something is off about the one. Dry fire practice has told me exactly what that problem is (sights moving slightly when trigger breaks), which brings me back to my original post. Rather than spend money on additional parts for this gun, I wanted to see if anyone had done what I'm considering and if it generated the desired results. If it doesn't, then I don't want to throw money down a rat hole on a gun that I'll need to get rid of anyway (assuming nothing can be done to redress the issue). |
| Parts for your Glock are super cheap. You could buy a 17 trigger bar with a smooth face..a 3.5 connector and a NY1 trigger spring if you want for cheap...Try it...Your gun should shoot circles around a revolver with a 14 pound two stage trigger pull unless you were shooting it single stage. The stock trigger og a Glock is nowhere near as bad as you are complaining about...I would just get a new trigger bar and a 3.5 # OEM connector...if you can't shoot that then yes something wrong with your "glock" technique |
| OP have you tried just replacing the trigger reset spring. I know exactly what you speak of that you do not like and I changed it on my G19. I bought a Zev heavy competition trigger reset spring. It drops 1# from the overall pull and makes the reset more positive. The part that I like that it corrects is the mushy clunk feeling you feel when you break the trigger. If you plan on changing the connector to a - connector make sure you change this because the stock spring and a - connector makes for a mushy trigger. |
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OP have you tried just replacing the trigger reset spring. I know exactly what you speak of that you do not like and I changed it on my G19. I bought a Zev heavy competition trigger reset spring. It drops 1# from the overall pull and makes the reset more positive. The part that I like that it corrects is the mushy clunk feeling you feel when you break the trigger. If you plan on changing the connector to a - connector make sure you change this because the stock spring and a - connector makes for a mushy trigger. Great information, thank you. I will try this. Mushy clunk feeling describes it really, really well. You steadily increase trigger pressure until it breaks, but that amount of pressure plus the over travel is too much, thus the clunk (and sights being pulled off target). |
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I have these in most all my glocks except gssf comp guns which require glock only parts.
zev starter spring kit |
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I have these in most all my glocks except gssf comp guns which require glock only parts. zev starter spring kit Great info, thank you
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Great information, thank you. I will try this. Mushy clunk feeling describes it really, really well. You steadily increase trigger pressure until it breaks, but that amount of pressure plus the over travel is too much, thus the clunk (and sights being pulled off target). Quoted:
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OP have you tried just replacing the trigger reset spring. I know exactly what you speak of that you do not like and I changed it on my G19. I bought a Zev heavy competition trigger reset spring. It drops 1# from the overall pull and makes the reset more positive. The part that I like that it corrects is the mushy clunk feeling you feel when you break the trigger. If you plan on changing the connector to a - connector make sure you change this because the stock spring and a - connector makes for a mushy trigger. Great information, thank you. I will try this. Mushy clunk feeling describes it really, really well. You steadily increase trigger pressure until it breaks, but that amount of pressure plus the over travel is too much, thus the clunk (and sights being pulled off target). First thing I change on all my Glocks is that spring I can deal with everything else I just hate the mushy clunk and that spring takes a lot of it out. If you run the - connector it is almost unbearable to shoot without the heavier trigger reset spring. The added bonus is the reset feels so much better and more positive than the stock. The other thing I change is going from the G19 ribbed trigger to a G17 smooth trigger it does not improve trigger pull or weight but it feels better to the finger. |
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Great info, thank you Quoted:
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I have these in most all my glocks except gssf comp guns which require glock only parts. zev starter spring kit Great info, thank you I suggest skipping the striker spring swap because IMO it brings back the mushy clunk feeling that the OP is trying to avoid. Plus it makes light primer strikes possible. |
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I suggest skipping the striker spring swap because IMO it brings back the mushy clunk feeling that the OP is trying to avoid. Plus it makes light primer strikes possible. Quoted:
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I have these in most all my glocks except gssf comp guns which require glock only parts. zev starter spring kit Great info, thank you I suggest skipping the striker spring swap because IMO it brings back the mushy clunk feeling that the OP is trying to avoid. Plus it makes light primer strikes possible. Good call. I dont have mine in either due to having a couple light strikes in my gen 3 17. My gen 4 17 and 19s and 34 never did do it. But i do have some of the zev skeletonized strikers in mail. Should go a lil faster on that lighter spring and its tip is slightly extended to help. Will report back if all is kosher. But i love this little spring kit. Pull is great imo and the break is so much cleaner, less over travel and better reset. I feel like i shoot more accurately when shooting faster as well |
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The problem with the Glock trigger that it creeps is because it pulls the striker back a bit before releasing it. This is why it is considered a DA handgun. I own a HK VP9 that has a much better trigger than any of my Glocks, and it is considered a SA handgun. I am assuming the trigger pull does not draw the striker to the rear. I have settled on polished factory trigger parts in my Glocks. The 3.5# connectors only change the geometry of the drawing the striker to the rear by using a longer lever. The pull will be lighter but the creep is longer. Someone correct me here if I am wrong. |
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Good call. I dont have mine in either due to having a couple light strikes in my gen 3 17. My gen 4 17 and 19s and 34 never did do it. But i do have some of the zev skeletonized strikers in mail. Should go a lil faster on that lighter spring and its tip is slightly extended to help. Will report back if all is kosher. But i love this little spring kit. Pull is great imo and the break is so much cleaner, less over travel and better reset. I feel like i shoot more accurately when shooting faster as well Quoted:
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I have these in most all my glocks except gssf comp guns which require glock only parts. zev starter spring kit Great info, thank you I suggest skipping the striker spring swap because IMO it brings back the mushy clunk feeling that the OP is trying to avoid. Plus it makes light primer strikes possible. Good call. I dont have mine in either due to having a couple light strikes in my gen 3 17. My gen 4 17 and 19s and 34 never did do it. But i do have some of the zev skeletonized strikers in mail. Should go a lil faster on that lighter spring and its tip is slightly extended to help. Will report back if all is kosher. But i love this little spring kit. Pull is great imo and the break is so much cleaner, less over travel and better reset. I feel like i shoot more accurately when shooting faster as well Just to be clear, the part I really want out of this kit is the trigger reset spring, correct? I would otherwise like to keep Glock factory parts, so I might just order that one spring if that's all I really need. |
| I have done the NY1 spring with a minus connector. I didn't care for it. I was having a really hard time with trigger control on my 34, but not on my 19. I tried polishing and everything I could think of, and finally ended up buying a new trigger and trigger bar. The new unit was much better. My guess is that there is some variation in the trigger bars. They are just stamped sheet metal after all. |
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Just to be clear, the part I really want out of this kit is the trigger reset spring, correct? I would otherwise like to keep Glock factory parts, so I might just order that one spring if that's all I really need. Quoted:
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I have these in most all my glocks except gssf comp guns which require glock only parts. zev starter spring kit Great info, thank you I suggest skipping the striker spring swap because IMO it brings back the mushy clunk feeling that the OP is trying to avoid. Plus it makes light primer strikes possible. Good call. I dont have mine in either due to having a couple light strikes in my gen 3 17. My gen 4 17 and 19s and 34 never did do it. But i do have some of the zev skeletonized strikers in mail. Should go a lil faster on that lighter spring and its tip is slightly extended to help. Will report back if all is kosher. But i love this little spring kit. Pull is great imo and the break is so much cleaner, less over travel and better reset. I feel like i shoot more accurately when shooting faster as well Just to be clear, the part I really want out of this kit is the trigger reset spring, correct? I would otherwise like to keep Glock factory parts, so I might just order that one spring if that's all I really need. Yes just the trigger reset spring .... Heavier spring is what you want or competition it is also called. |
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I have done the NY1 spring with a minus connector. I didn't care for it. I was having a really hard time with trigger control on my 34, but not on my 19. I tried polishing and everything I could think of, and finally ended up buying a new trigger and trigger bar. The new unit was much better. My guess is that there is some variation in the trigger bars. They are just stamped sheet metal after all. Exactly why I mentioned get new ones |
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Op, I had qualms with my g21 trigger a while back. A great member here sent me his old minus connector but warned me that it actually makes for a mushier break. He was right.
My new g19 has an incredibly crisp break unlike any glock I've personally hadled except for my friends heavily modded g31 I really have to work hard whether it is with my mushy 21 or crispy 19 tigger. My 1911 I can be super sloppy and still print nice groups but the glocks are very unforgiving. The coin on the front sight really helped me better understand the impact my finger placement and pull had on the gun. I advise trying that before modding your gun as that is just a crutch |
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I don't want a lighter trigger. I want a break that isn't terribly harsh. Quoted:
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Not that hard. A lighter trigger ain't gonna help that much. I don't want a lighter trigger. I want a break that isn't terribly harsh. It's not harsh at all. It's the over travel that's gettin' you. |
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It's not harsh at all. It's the over travel that's gettin' you. Quoted:
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Not that hard. A lighter trigger ain't gonna help that much. I don't want a lighter trigger. I want a break that isn't terribly harsh. It's not harsh at all. It's the over travel that's gettin' you. Not so much even over travel it is just the feel of the stock Glock trigger the break just feels for lack of a better term like a mushy clunk then a weak reset feel. I cannot stand it about the stock Glock setup and this is the very reason I swap the trigger reset spring to a heavier one because it takes the very feel the OP describes and minimizes it. |
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Yes just the trigger reset spring .... Heavier spring is what you want or competition it is also called. Exactly - Went with a G17 smooth trigger, ZEV 6lb Competition trigger reset spring and the 25cent polish job on my Gen 2, 3 & 4 G19's and it made a tremendous difference. |
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I have been playing with trigger components on my G19 Gen4 for a week or so. I ordered everything from Wolff. G17 Gen 3 smooth trigger 3.5 lb connector 6 lb trigger reset spring lighter striker spring I tried lots of combinations using the above parts and the stock parts. My Gen4 is relatively new and came with the most current stock parts available. Started with a 7.5 lb pull measured on a digital Lyman scale. Ended up less than 4 lbs. Get a lot of 3lb 13 oz pulls. The Gen 3 G17 smooth trigger and bar does not work well in my 19. Trigger becomes gritty and pre-travel won't snap back if you let your finger off the trigger. I have not tried polishing the new trigger bar yet - something is obviously wrong with it as it doesn't do its job properly. Currently not using it. Adding the lighter striker spring, heavier reset spring and 3.5 lb connector - really makes for a nice trigger. It feels like the pre-travel is a little shorter, break is fairly clean, light with an audible reset. My groups have definitely tightened up a little. I have put several hundred rounds down the pipe with 0 issues. I run the cheapest crap ammo I can find since I like to shoot a lot. Perfecta from Walmart $ 10.99/50 , Aluminum Federals $ 9.99/50 and reloads from High Country Ammo $ .19 each I also shoot steel Tula occasionally but for some reason tend to grab other ammo from my bag. |