Posted: 2/13/2015 10:52:46 AM EDT
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Got my first Glock a few weeks ago, one of the trade-in gen 2 G19s from AIM. It runs through ball ammo fine, but fails to extract every 5th round or so of Gold Dots. The slide locks to the rear, and the case remains halfway in the chamber and gets stuck over the next round feeding. This happens with 4 different factory mags. The extractor does not look worn and is free of any carbon buildup. I am definitely not limp-wristing. I put in a brand-new depressor plunger spring and RSA as soon as I got the gun, and have not shot it with the original springs. Should I try the original springs, get a new extractor, change defensive ammo, or just give up and call it a lemon?
Compounding my feelings toward this gun are the fact that it shoots way left (about 4" at 5 yds). It seems mechanical, as changing my shooting technique significantly has not helped at all. The sights were drifted all the way to the right when I got it, which I corrected, but it seems that was the only way to get it on target. I really want to like this gun, but it is not giving me a positive first impression of Glocks. Any thoughts? |
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It ain't the sights! Try this simple fix: Replace the slide lock and SL spring that's presently inside the pistol with another custom lock and new spring from Glockmeister. (They're a little bit flatter, and a little bit straighter, too. The barrel should, then, sit truer inside the slide.) If that doesn't do it then examine your barrel for predominant wear marks; and, in particular, check the barrel lugs, as well as the fit on BOTH ends of the barrel hood. (Because something is causing your barrel to cant off to the left; and it's, probably, not coming from the frame - It don't take much, OK!)
In my own experience dealing with Glock tech support in Smyrna, you'd be better off handing your Glock to a chimpanzee at the local zoo; (and, you'll probably get your Glock back in better condition, too!) If you do anything, at all, call Glock, give them your pistol's serial number, and ask if your used Glock is subject to an, 'upgrade' (recall)? Because you're not the original purchaser nothing Smyrna will do for you - beyond defective parts replacement - is going to be free. Besides, you'd be better off locating a competent pistolsmith - who is, also, a Glock Armorer - and having him do whatever repair(s) might be necessary. There's not much point in telling you how to fix your FTF problem until after you correct the pistol's POI; but, for whatever it's worth, you, more than likely, need to replace the magazine followers and springs. (Take the number that's marked in the follower's slide stop detente. Use either that follower, or whatever one has replaced it.) I don't use Glock springs; I use Wolff Gunsprings, instead; but, before you order new springs make sure they'll fit the new followers you'll be getting. (You can discuss this with either Glock or Wolff.) To run those troublesome GDHP's I think I'd use Wolff +10% springs. (Because the angle of the GD's farther down the tube is too steep and the lower cartridges lack sufficient spring pressure to incline and feed properly; AND your Glock's slide is, quite possibly, moving too fast.) Your problems are among the reasons, 'Why' I don't buy used Glocks. They're cheap, mass produced guns that are, always, assemblages from various piles of requisite parts. Back when Glock was selling 2nd generation pistols these assemblages were seldom checked for alignment and compatibility in the way that they are (supposed to be) today. NOTE: This is the internet; nobody's going to be able to correctly analyze and fix your Glock here. All you're getting are, 'best guesses'. If your problems are originating from the slide-to-frame fit then, yes, it's time to ditch the gun. (Everybody's who's seriously into guns has done this, at least once, in his life, anyway. So, now, it'll be your turn! Unless you really know what you're doing, don't gamble on a used Glock.) 
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^ Dude if it runs don't mess with it. Dude its called preventative maintenance ie spring changes? I have no idea how many rounds are on the original springs and i have almost 5k rds on it. Instead of buying and replacing myself, it would be nice if glock would do everything at once. |
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Thanks guys, some good info here. I ordered a new extractor and slide lock, worth a shot before giving up. What? No slide lock spring! (IF THERE IS ONE SPRING, ONE PART, ON A WELL USED GLOCK THAT SHOULD BE CHANGED AT LEAST ONCE EVERY TWO YEARS IT'S THE SLIDE LOCK SPRING!) If this puny little spring cracks, or otherwise fails, your entire slide assembly can end up lying on the ground in front of you. (Hilarious to everyone, but you; and, yes, I've seen it happen.) I've been thinking about this question. 4 inches left at 5 yards is rather odd. Admittedly I run with a fast crowd; but I haven’t used a pistol’s sights at and inside 5 yards in, …… well, more than 3 decades. When someone shoots over 10,000 rounds each year it just isn’t necessary to look for your front sight at 5 yards. 'Square up' the back of the slide? Yes, but actually look for your front sight? No. Consequently, I’d suggest that, at least, two other shooters try this Glock BEFORE definitely labeling it as, ‘shooting to the left’. (Most people shoot a Glock, ‘to the left’ anyway - It’s the generally lousy trigger!) If you are shooting with the trigger’s face either on or very close your TF’s distal joint, then back your finger off and press more with the pad or tip of your finger. Do these shots group, or tend to group, between 9 and 6 o’clock? If so the problem is classic; and it’s mostly the shooter’s fault. My other suggestions I’m going to let stand. |
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Quoted:
What? No slide lock spring! (IF THERE IS ONE SPRING, ONE PART, ON A WELL USED GLOCK THAT SHOULD BE CHANGED AT LEAST ONCE EVERY TWO YEARS IT'S THE SLIDE LOCK SPRING!) If this puny little spring cracks, or otherwise fails, your entire slide assembly can end up lying on the ground in front of you. (Hilarious to everyone, but you; and, yes, I've seen it happen.) I've been thinking about this question. 4 inches left at 5 yards is rather odd. Admittedly I run with a fast crowd; but I haven’t used a pistol’s sights at and inside 5 yards in, …… well, more than 3 decades. When someone shoots over 10,000 rounds each year it just isn’t necessary to look for your front sight at 5 yards. 'Square up' the back of the slide? Yes, but actually look for your front sight? No. Consequently, I’d suggest that, at least, two other shooters try this Glock BEFORE definitely labeling it as, ‘shooting to the left’. (Most people shoot a Glock, ‘to the left’ anyway - It’s the generally lousy trigger!) If you are shooting with the trigger’s face either on or very close your TF’s distal joint, then back your finger off and press more with the pad or tip of your finger. Do these shots group, or tend to group, between 9 and 6 o’clock? If so the problem is classic; and it’s mostly the shooter’s fault. My other suggestions I’m going to let stand. Quoted:
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Thanks guys, some good info here. I ordered a new extractor and slide lock, worth a shot before giving up. What? No slide lock spring! (IF THERE IS ONE SPRING, ONE PART, ON A WELL USED GLOCK THAT SHOULD BE CHANGED AT LEAST ONCE EVERY TWO YEARS IT'S THE SLIDE LOCK SPRING!) If this puny little spring cracks, or otherwise fails, your entire slide assembly can end up lying on the ground in front of you. (Hilarious to everyone, but you; and, yes, I've seen it happen.) I've been thinking about this question. 4 inches left at 5 yards is rather odd. Admittedly I run with a fast crowd; but I haven’t used a pistol’s sights at and inside 5 yards in, …… well, more than 3 decades. When someone shoots over 10,000 rounds each year it just isn’t necessary to look for your front sight at 5 yards. 'Square up' the back of the slide? Yes, but actually look for your front sight? No. Consequently, I’d suggest that, at least, two other shooters try this Glock BEFORE definitely labeling it as, ‘shooting to the left’. (Most people shoot a Glock, ‘to the left’ anyway - It’s the generally lousy trigger!) If you are shooting with the trigger’s face either on or very close your TF’s distal joint, then back your finger off and press more with the pad or tip of your finger. Do these shots group, or tend to group, between 9 and 6 o’clock? If so the problem is classic; and it’s mostly the shooter’s fault. My other suggestions I’m going to let stand. The slide lock spring was one of the replacements I made as soon as I got it. I have to say that after replacing the slide lock, the original does look pretty "chewed up" along the top, which may have been affecting barrel alignment? As I said, I've tried significantly altering my technique in all the recommended ways (more trigger, less trigger, grip pressure, no pinky, etc), with zero result. I haven't gotten a chance to get someone else to shoot it yet. The new extractor looks a little "sharper" than the original, so hopefully that will resolve the FTEs. I did notice that the new depressor plunger spring I had put in is slightly thicker and longer (maybe a mm or two) than the original. Would that be making any difference? if anything, I figured more spring pressure would make the extractor better at holding on to the case, not worse. Will hopefully get to the range next week to test out the changes. |
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The slide lock spring was one of the replacements I made as soon as I got it. I have to say that after replacing the slide lock, the original does look pretty "chewed up" along the top, which may have been affecting barrel alignment? As I said, I've tried significantly altering my technique in all the recommended ways (more trigger, less trigger, grip pressure, no pinky, etc), with zero result. I haven't gotten a chance to get someone else to shoot it yet. The new extractor looks a little "sharper" than the original, so hopefully that will resolve the FTEs. I did notice that the new depressor plunger spring I had put in is slightly thicker and longer (maybe a mm or two) than the original. Would that be making any difference? if anything, I figured more spring pressure would make the extractor better at holding on to the case, not worse. Will hopefully get to the range next week to test out the changes. If the slide lock was, 'chewed up', then, exactly where was it chewed up? Along the front right edge of the cantilever? What are your wear patterns on the barrel? If the SLB spring is too heavy, it would be harder for the ejector to push the case out of the breech because the claw would tend to hold onto it longer. I'm wondering whether or not you have all the correct parts inside that Glock? Wouldn't be the first time someplace like LWD sent someone the wrong parts. (It's happened to me more than once.) I think it's time for you to, 'buddy up' with a local armorer, and tell him all the things you've told us. He'll have the tools; and drawers full of different parts to allow you to really mix 'n match. (Did you change those magazine springs, yet?) |
| Well, the story has a happy ending. Since the last range trip, I replaced the extractor and drifted the rear sight to the right like it was when I got it. Took her out this morning, and ran through four mags of Gold Dots with zero malfunctions, and the sights were dead-on. Compared to my XD's, I'm impressed how easy the G19 is to shoot accurately and stay on target, even with +P ammo. It's my new favorite pistol. Thanks for all your input. |
| Like other postings have already stated its the best deal if you return it to glock. Any 2nd generation pistol especially . I buy every 2nd gen glock 19 I can find and they automatically go back to glock . Every one has been rebuilt from sights on down. Glock even replaced all the magazines and returned shipped with new clam shell boxes. Glocks customer service is 100% everytime . I'm not speaking of a one time experience. I have returned six glocks so far. it only cost me the initial shipping costs. |