Posted: 8/21/2012 1:56:13 PM EDT
| Someone told me that the repeated strike of the firing pin would crack the breach face without snap caps. Is this gun shop lore or truth? Thanks! |
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Glock USED to say that dry fire was good to go, no matter how much. However, last armorer's class I took, they have now started advising to use snap caps for "excessive or prolonged dry fire", but would not specify what is considered "excessive or prolonged".
The instructor did not say anything about the breech face, what he said has turned out to be a problem is the chisel tip of the firing pin snapping off with "excessive or prolonged dry fire" now that the firing pins are made of MIM parts. Not a big deal to replace, but your gun is out of action for however long it takes to get a new firing pin and get it installed. What worries me is that, if the firing pin can loose it's tip from dry firing, how long will it take to loose it's tip from live firing? Maybe never, but maybe a lot sooner than the older style firing pin. Makes me wish, yet again, that they had stayed with the older machined castings instead of moving to MIM, but they did and don't seem to be willing to go back, so we have to deal with what is, not what we want to be. Bottom line- my advice is to either use a snap cap for any dry fire other than when disassembling, or try to find the older parts to install. They are still good guns, but they now seem to take some PM, unlike older guns where you could do almost anything to them and still expect them to work. Bub75 |
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They are still good guns, but they now seem to take some PM, unlike older guns where you could do almost anything to them and still expect them to work. Bub75 I am a long time Glock owner going back to the Gen 1s. As you said Glock is still good but in my experience, the M&Ps have the quality and reliability that glock USED to have. |
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They are still good guns, but they now seem to take some PM, unlike older guns where you could do almost anything to them and still expect them to work. Bub75 I am a long time Glock owner going back to the Gen 1s. As you said Glock is still good but in my experience, the M&Ps have the quality and reliability that glock USED to have. I agree, to an extent. Used to be, you didn't have to do ANYTHING to a Glock, other than maybe clean it every few thousand rounds and keep it fed. Up till recently, I NEVER heard about rusty Glocks, Glocks with extraction/ejection problems or anything else. They just WORKED! However, even with Glock's shortcuts recently, I'll still take a Glock over anything else out there for a serious use gun. I was issued a Gen4 G22 a couple of months ago at work and have probably 600-700 rds through it. Never any problems at all. It has run great since day 1. I am, however, keeping an eye on it for rust and other problems. NEVER had to do that with my old, 2nd Gen G21 that I carried for a duty gun till I was issued the G22. Rain, snow, condensation from going from cold air to a heated car or the other way around, no rust, no issues at all. Guess we'll see how the newbie works out. I have an ancient 1st Gen G17 in my bug out bag, so I guess that tells you where my interests lie. Bub75 |
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as a reloader, i made my own. i used spent brass, seated a bullet, and drilled a small hole in the side of the case to identify them as duds. so what do you use to fill the primer pocket with ? some i deprimed and left empty, some i left the spent primer in it. |
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as a reloader, i made my own. i used spent brass, seated a bullet, and drilled a small hole in the side of the case to identify them as duds. so what do you use to fill the primer pocket with ? some i deprimed and left empty, some i left the spent primer in it. The purpose of a snap cap is to cushion the firing pin's forward momemtum. The ones with nothing in the primer pockets are doing nothing ( other than providing good loading / unloading drills , which is valuable ). The ones with spent primers are marginally cushioning the blow. you may want to get some hard rubber inserts of the appropriate size to insert into the primer pockets if you are concerned about providing the cushion effect. if not, disregard. FWIW, I do not use snap caps, and perform dry practice at least 20 trigger pulls per evening. |
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as a reloader, i made my own. i used spent brass, seated a bullet, and drilled a small hole in the side of the case to identify them as duds. so what do you use to fill the primer pocket with ? some i deprimed and left empty, some i left the spent primer in it. The purpose of a snap cap is to cushion the firing pin's forward momemtum. The ones with nothing in the primer pockets are doing nothing ( other than providing good loading / unloading drills , which is valuable ). The ones with spent primers are marginally cushioning the blow. you may want to get some hard rubber inserts of the appropriate size to insert into the primer pockets if you are concerned about providing the cushion effect. if not, disregard. FWIW, I do not use snap caps, and perform dry practice at least 20 trigger pulls per evening. yeah the main reason i made them is to dick around and practice my reloading/trigger control. i have thought about inserting rubber but i need to look around and see if i can find anything to use. |
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Unless a factory f#$ up, Glocks are -still- very rust resistent. Of course, errors happen in any human operated facility, even in Glock. HTR. I dunno, Hunter. When Glock used Tenifer, I literally never heard of rust, unless it was something like VERY EXTREME torture testing. Since Glock moved to a different nitriding process, I have heard of and read about some rusty Glocks, but never seen one in person. That's why I'm kinda experimenting with my issued G22 by treating it just like my old G21- not wiping it down except when cleaning after firing, not babying it at all, and we'll see how it goes. No rust after a year or so and I'll be ready to say that the new nitriding process is equal to Tenifer. If it rusts, then I'll know that the new nitriding process is inferior to Tenifer, for corrosion protection, anyway. No real point in it since Tenifer is no more and we're stuck with the current nitriding process, but I'm curious. It's not a really scientific test, but it is the best I can do. Bub75 |
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Unless a factory f#$ up, Glocks are -still- very rust resistent. Of course, errors happen in any human operated facility, even in Glock. HTR. I dunno, Hunter. When Glock used Tenifer, I literally never heard of rust, unless it was something like VERY EXTREME torture testing. Since Glock moved to a different nitriding process, I have heard of and read about some rusty Glocks, but never seen one in person. That's why I'm kinda experimenting with my issued G22 by treating it just like my old G21- not wiping it down except when cleaning after firing, not babying it at all, and we'll see how it goes. No rust after a year or so and I'll be ready to say that the new nitriding process is equal to Tenifer. If it rusts, then I'll know that the new nitriding process is inferior to Tenifer, for corrosion protection, anyway. No real point in it since Tenifer is no more and we're stuck with the current nitriding process, but I'm curious. It's not a really scientific test, but it is the best I can do. Bub75 If your slide rusts on you with the test you proposed, I'll buy you a beer, if it doesn't then it's your dollar. How's that for a bet? 
On a serious note, the test you're going to put the gun thru, is a real world test, and it -is- a good one. Sweat is extremely salty. What I do is exactly what you do with your G21. I don't baby any of my Glocks at all. Do I maintain them to keep them reliable? very much so, using lube where it belongs to keep them going, cleaning my carry gun after a range session etc etc. I hardly or never wipe down the slide (the outside) with any lube, and I do carry my 26 and my 17 against my body sometimes (no holster). Being in South America, and after a whole summer day, my G17 and G26 get SOAKED in sweat, which I never wipe off (I let it dry out on the slide deliverately to see if there's any ill results). I have yet to see any rust isses. Ask me what happened to my eastern german sig p226 when I did this 
That's one of the main reasons I love Glocks, you can get them to pick up rust, yes, but you have to try VERY VERY hard. HTR. |
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Unless a factory f#$ up, Glocks are -still- very rust resistent. Of course, errors happen in any human operated facility, even in Glock. HTR. I dunno, Hunter. When Glock used Tenifer, I literally never heard of rust, unless it was something like VERY EXTREME torture testing. Since Glock moved to a different nitriding process, I have heard of and read about some rusty Glocks, but never seen one in person. That's why I'm kinda experimenting with my issued G22 by treating it just like my old G21- not wiping it down except when cleaning after firing, not babying it at all, and we'll see how it goes. No rust after a year or so and I'll be ready to say that the new nitriding process is equal to Tenifer. If it rusts, then I'll know that the new nitriding process is inferior to Tenifer, for corrosion protection, anyway. No real point in it since Tenifer is no more and we're stuck with the current nitriding process, but I'm curious. It's not a really scientific test, but it is the best I can do. Bub75 If your slide rusts on you with the test you proposed, I'll buy you a beer, if it doesn't then it's your dollar. How's that for a bet?
On a serious note, the test you're going to put the gun thru, is a real world test, and it -is- a good one. Sweat is extremely salty. What I do is exactly what you do with your G21. I don't baby any of my Glocks at all. Do I maintain them to keep them reliable? very much so, using lube where it belongs to keep them going, cleaning my carry gun after a range session etc etc. I hardly or never wipe down the slide (the outside) with any lube, and I do carry my 26 and my 17 against my body sometimes (no holster). Being in South America, and after a whole summer day, my G17 and G26 get SOAKED in sweat, which I never wipe off (I let it dry out on the slide deliverately to see if there's any ill results). I have yet to see any rust isses. Ask me what happened to my eastern german sig p226 when I did this
That's one of the main reasons I love Glocks, you can get them to pick up rust, yes, but you have to try VERY VERY hard. HTR. Hunter, I'm not going to ask you about your Sig, because I already know what happened. When I started in LE, I bought and carried an East German P226. While going through the academy, it worked out very well and I didn't have any problems, mainly because we always shot on nice, sunny days. Once I got on the road, it got to the point that I couldn't even make it through a 10 hr shift without finding the slide, trigger and controls covered in surface rust. This was just with ambient humidity, and it got a LOT worse if it rained or I sweated a lot. Got tired of having to wipe off my duty gun 2-3 times/shift, and Glock had just introduced the G21, so I bought one and the rest is history. Honestly, I don't know if the G22 will rust or not. I really don't think so, but with all the reports lately, we'll see. I check the gun over daily when I put on my duty belt, so if it does rust, I'll find it quickly and will report. Bub75 |
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Unless a factory f#$ up, Glocks are -still- very rust resistent. Of course, errors happen in any human operated facility, even in Glock. HTR. I dunno, Hunter. When Glock used Tenifer, I literally never heard of rust, unless it was something like VERY EXTREME torture testing. Since Glock moved to a different nitriding process, I have heard of and read about some rusty Glocks, but never seen one in person. That's why I'm kinda experimenting with my issued G22 by treating it just like my old G21- not wiping it down except when cleaning after firing, not babying it at all, and we'll see how it goes. No rust after a year or so and I'll be ready to say that the new nitriding process is equal to Tenifer. If it rusts, then I'll know that the new nitriding process is inferior to Tenifer, for corrosion protection, anyway. No real point in it since Tenifer is no more and we're stuck with the current nitriding process, but I'm curious. It's not a really scientific test, but it is the best I can do. Bub75 If your slide rusts on you with the test you proposed, I'll buy you a beer, if it doesn't then it's your dollar. How's that for a bet?
On a serious note, the test you're going to put the gun thru, is a real world test, and it -is- a good one. Sweat is extremely salty. What I do is exactly what you do with your G21. I don't baby any of my Glocks at all. Do I maintain them to keep them reliable? very much so, using lube where it belongs to keep them going, cleaning my carry gun after a range session etc etc. I hardly or never wipe down the slide (the outside) with any lube, and I do carry my 26 and my 17 against my body sometimes (no holster). Being in South America, and after a whole summer day, my G17 and G26 get SOAKED in sweat, which I never wipe off (I let it dry out on the slide deliverately to see if there's any ill results). I have yet to see any rust isses. Ask me what happened to my eastern german sig p226 when I did this
That's one of the main reasons I love Glocks, you can get them to pick up rust, yes, but you have to try VERY VERY hard. HTR. Hunter, I'm not going to ask you about your Sig, because I already know what happened. When I started in LE, I bought and carried an East German P226. While going through the academy, it worked out very well and I didn't have any problems, mainly because we always shot on nice, sunny days. Once I got on the road, it got to the point that I couldn't even make it through a 10 hr shift without finding the slide, trigger and controls covered in surface rust. This was just with ambient humidity, and it got a LOT worse if it rained or I sweated a lot. Got tired of having to wipe off my duty gun 2-3 times/shift, and Glock had just introduced the G21, so I bought one and the rest is history. Honestly, I don't know if the G22 will rust or not. I really don't think so, but with all the reports lately, we'll see. I check the gun over daily when I put on my duty belt, so if it does rust, I'll find it quickly and will report. Bub75 Don't you mean WEST German? |
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Unless a factory f#$ up, Glocks are -still- very rust resistent. Of course, errors happen in any human operated facility, even in Glock. HTR. I dunno, Hunter. When Glock used Tenifer, I literally never heard of rust, unless it was something like VERY EXTREME torture testing. Since Glock moved to a different nitriding process, I have heard of and read about some rusty Glocks, but never seen one in person. That's why I'm kinda experimenting with my issued G22 by treating it just like my old G21- not wiping it down except when cleaning after firing, not babying it at all, and we'll see how it goes. No rust after a year or so and I'll be ready to say that the new nitriding process is equal to Tenifer. If it rusts, then I'll know that the new nitriding process is inferior to Tenifer, for corrosion protection, anyway. No real point in it since Tenifer is no more and we're stuck with the current nitriding process, but I'm curious. It's not a really scientific test, but it is the best I can do. Bub75 If your slide rusts on you with the test you proposed, I'll buy you a beer, if it doesn't then it's your dollar. How's that for a bet?
On a serious note, the test you're going to put the gun thru, is a real world test, and it -is- a good one. Sweat is extremely salty. What I do is exactly what you do with your G21. I don't baby any of my Glocks at all. Do I maintain them to keep them reliable? very much so, using lube where it belongs to keep them going, cleaning my carry gun after a range session etc etc. I hardly or never wipe down the slide (the outside) with any lube, and I do carry my 26 and my 17 against my body sometimes (no holster). Being in South America, and after a whole summer day, my G17 and G26 get SOAKED in sweat, which I never wipe off (I let it dry out on the slide deliverately to see if there's any ill results). I have yet to see any rust isses. Ask me what happened to my eastern german sig p226 when I did this
That's one of the main reasons I love Glocks, you can get them to pick up rust, yes, but you have to try VERY VERY hard. HTR. Hunter, I'm not going to ask you about your Sig, because I already know what happened. When I started in LE, I bought and carried an East German P226. While going through the academy, it worked out very well and I didn't have any problems, mainly because we always shot on nice, sunny days. Once I got on the road, it got to the point that I couldn't even make it through a 10 hr shift without finding the slide, trigger and controls covered in surface rust. This was just with ambient humidity, and it got a LOT worse if it rained or I sweated a lot. Got tired of having to wipe off my duty gun 2-3 times/shift, and Glock had just introduced the G21, so I bought one and the rest is history. Honestly, I don't know if the G22 will rust or not. I really don't think so, but with all the reports lately, we'll see. I check the gun over daily when I put on my duty belt, so if it does rust, I'll find it quickly and will report. Bub75 Don't you mean WEST German? Thanks, yes, we mean WEST germany 
HTR. |
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Unless a factory f#$ up, Glocks are -still- very rust resistent. Of course, errors happen in any human operated facility, even in Glock. HTR. I dunno, Hunter. When Glock used Tenifer, I literally never heard of rust, unless it was something like VERY EXTREME torture testing. Since Glock moved to a different nitriding process, I have heard of and read about some rusty Glocks, but never seen one in person. That's why I'm kinda experimenting with my issued G22 by treating it just like my old G21- not wiping it down except when cleaning after firing, not babying it at all, and we'll see how it goes. No rust after a year or so and I'll be ready to say that the new nitriding process is equal to Tenifer. If it rusts, then I'll know that the new nitriding process is inferior to Tenifer, for corrosion protection, anyway. No real point in it since Tenifer is no more and we're stuck with the current nitriding process, but I'm curious. It's not a really scientific test, but it is the best I can do. Bub75 If your slide rusts on you with the test you proposed, I'll buy you a beer, if it doesn't then it's your dollar. How's that for a bet?
On a serious note, the test you're going to put the gun thru, is a real world test, and it -is- a good one. Sweat is extremely salty. What I do is exactly what you do with your G21. I don't baby any of my Glocks at all. Do I maintain them to keep them reliable? very much so, using lube where it belongs to keep them going, cleaning my carry gun after a range session etc etc. I hardly or never wipe down the slide (the outside) with any lube, and I do carry my 26 and my 17 against my body sometimes (no holster). Being in South America, and after a whole summer day, my G17 and G26 get SOAKED in sweat, which I never wipe off (I let it dry out on the slide deliverately to see if there's any ill results). I have yet to see any rust isses. Ask me what happened to my eastern german sig p226 when I did this
That's one of the main reasons I love Glocks, you can get them to pick up rust, yes, but you have to try VERY VERY hard. HTR. The most likely thing on a Glock to rust is the frame rails. If you are keeping them lubed properly, this should be a total non-issue. |
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Unless a factory f#$ up, Glocks are -still- very rust resistent. Of course, errors happen in any human operated facility, even in Glock. HTR. I dunno, Hunter. When Glock used Tenifer, I literally never heard of rust, unless it was something like VERY EXTREME torture testing. Since Glock moved to a different nitriding process, I have heard of and read about some rusty Glocks, but never seen one in person. That's why I'm kinda experimenting with my issued G22 by treating it just like my old G21- not wiping it down except when cleaning after firing, not babying it at all, and we'll see how it goes. No rust after a year or so and I'll be ready to say that the new nitriding process is equal to Tenifer. If it rusts, then I'll know that the new nitriding process is inferior to Tenifer, for corrosion protection, anyway. No real point in it since Tenifer is no more and we're stuck with the current nitriding process, but I'm curious. It's not a really scientific test, but it is the best I can do. Bub75 If your slide rusts on you with the test you proposed, I'll buy you a beer, if it doesn't then it's your dollar. How's that for a bet?
On a serious note, the test you're going to put the gun thru, is a real world test, and it -is- a good one. Sweat is extremely salty. What I do is exactly what you do with your G21. I don't baby any of my Glocks at all. Do I maintain them to keep them reliable? very much so, using lube where it belongs to keep them going, cleaning my carry gun after a range session etc etc. I hardly or never wipe down the slide (the outside) with any lube, and I do carry my 26 and my 17 against my body sometimes (no holster). Being in South America, and after a whole summer day, my G17 and G26 get SOAKED in sweat, which I never wipe off (I let it dry out on the slide deliverately to see if there's any ill results). I have yet to see any rust isses. Ask me what happened to my eastern german sig p226 when I did this
That's one of the main reasons I love Glocks, you can get them to pick up rust, yes, but you have to try VERY VERY hard. HTR. The most likely thing on a Glock to rust is the frame rails. If you are keeping them lubed properly, this should be a total non-issue. Go figure...I didn't think a part that's always lubed and always in constant friction would get rusted that easily. I have read about mag release springs rusting (no friction at all and hardly ever any lube on it) but never about frame rails, as I thought they were made of SS. HTR. |
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Unless a factory f#$ up, Glocks are -still- very rust resistent. Of course, errors happen in any human operated facility, even in Glock. HTR. I dunno, Hunter. When Glock used Tenifer, I literally never heard of rust, unless it was something like VERY EXTREME torture testing. Since Glock moved to a different nitriding process, I have heard of and read about some rusty Glocks, but never seen one in person. That's why I'm kinda experimenting with my issued G22 by treating it just like my old G21- not wiping it down except when cleaning after firing, not babying it at all, and we'll see how it goes. No rust after a year or so and I'll be ready to say that the new nitriding process is equal to Tenifer. If it rusts, then I'll know that the new nitriding process is inferior to Tenifer, for corrosion protection, anyway. No real point in it since Tenifer is no more and we're stuck with the current nitriding process, but I'm curious. It's not a really scientific test, but it is the best I can do. Bub75 If your slide rusts on you with the test you proposed, I'll buy you a beer, if it doesn't then it's your dollar. How's that for a bet?
On a serious note, the test you're going to put the gun thru, is a real world test, and it -is- a good one. Sweat is extremely salty. What I do is exactly what you do with your G21. I don't baby any of my Glocks at all. Do I maintain them to keep them reliable? very much so, using lube where it belongs to keep them going, cleaning my carry gun after a range session etc etc. I hardly or never wipe down the slide (the outside) with any lube, and I do carry my 26 and my 17 against my body sometimes (no holster). Being in South America, and after a whole summer day, my G17 and G26 get SOAKED in sweat, which I never wipe off (I let it dry out on the slide deliverately to see if there's any ill results). I have yet to see any rust isses. Ask me what happened to my eastern german sig p226 when I did this
That's one of the main reasons I love Glocks, you can get them to pick up rust, yes, but you have to try VERY VERY hard. HTR. Hunter, I'm not going to ask you about your Sig, because I already know what happened. When I started in LE, I bought and carried an East German P226. While going through the academy, it worked out very well and I didn't have any problems, mainly because we always shot on nice, sunny days. Once I got on the road, it got to the point that I couldn't even make it through a 10 hr shift without finding the slide, trigger and controls covered in surface rust. This was just with ambient humidity, and it got a LOT worse if it rained or I sweated a lot. Got tired of having to wipe off my duty gun 2-3 times/shift, and Glock had just introduced the G21, so I bought one and the rest is history. Honestly, I don't know if the G22 will rust or not. I really don't think so, but with all the reports lately, we'll see. I check the gun over daily when I put on my duty belt, so if it does rust, I'll find it quickly and will report. Bub75 Don't you mean WEST German? Nope, mine was EAST German! Part of a very subtle Commie 5-year plan to try and reunite Germany under the Commie flag by trying to say that THEY introduced the Sig line and had plans to sue W Germany and SIG Sauer in the World Court to gain control. The ONLY reason I carried such a RARE, VALUABLE pistol on duty was because I didn't have anything else at the time! When I sold it, I made enough money to buy my current house off the proceeds of the gun! There were only a VERY FEW made that said East Germany before the Commies realized they screwed up and should have marked them WEST Germany!
Or I may have just screwed up and said EAST when I meant WEST! Bub75 |