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Ok, here we go, I have a gen 3 G34 that originally had the brass to forehead syndrome, called Glock and complained they said to send it in (which I did) and it came back with the gen 4 ejector, paperwork said tested and performed to spec. I rushed outside to shoot my "fixed" 34. Glock for the most part fixed the BTF (brass to forehead) but it was still spitting brass all over, forward (some would fall in the cutout in the front of the slide) LEFT and a high percentage would still fall ON my arms.



Some may find this acceptable but I did not, tried all the internet fixes out there, spent a fortune on new extractors and ejectors and ran over 900 rounds through the gun testing various fixes none of which worked to my satisfaction. I then started examining my other semi auto pistols and how they extracted and ejected spent rounds, the one that I wanted to mimic was my LC9, that little guy sends brass into the next zip code! One HUGE difference I noticed between the LC and the 34 was the grip the LC had on the brass, even when pulling the brass out by hand you have to get it angled allot before the "slide side" would let go, I noticed the slide on the LC had allot "grippier" feel when dragging the brass across it.



This got me thinking, maybe that sexy new coating Glock is putting on is too slippery and is not holding brass as good as the LC or the older Glocks for that matter. First thing I did was ordered the White Sound Defense extractor spring and the non LCI spring loaded bearing, thought if I put a little extra force on the empty that would help to hold the round nice and firm. This made little to no difference, in fact I noticed that day while testing that with the mag out the empty would fall right out the grip! This led me to believe the gun still was not doing a good job of holding the spent brass...... it couldn't even make it to the ejector! After more thought I decided to scrape away the coating on the side of the slide opposite the extractor, I knew this would void the warranty but figured what the heck, he warranty hasn't done me any good so far so I proceeded to remove some of the coating, low and behold it made a difference, didn't fix it but it made a bigger difference than new extractors, ejectors, RSA's, ect. did, so I decided to continue. Thought if I can make it just a bit more rough that it may get better yet, so I took a pneumatic pencil engraver and roughed the surfaces on the extractor and on the slide that the brass came in contact with.......guess what, it's fixed. I have put roughly 300 rounds through it since I have done this mod and have had ZERO go front left or straight back, I have had a couple brush my arm but it's less than 5 out of the 300 rounds. The single thing that has me convinced that this is the fix is now the gun ejects the same with the mag in or out.



I have intentionally not posted this info just because I wanted to get enough rounds through the gun to be satisfied that it's going to continue to work and I can say that I am indeed content. I want to try the 336 ejector yet, I think because the brass contact is farther left the gun will now spit brass at a flatter angle and completly clean up the few that are brushing my arm. I have a friend coming over tonight to shoot and he has the 336 in his gun (I had a few extras but with all the experimenting I have done with them they no longer have the factory geometry) I plan to swap out the ejectors to see what diffrence it makes. The gun is now 100% back to stock, just roughed up the 2 surfaces

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Would somebody please post a 50-word synopsis of the OP's first post?  Too early in the morning for me to read 1000 words what could have been said in 100!

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Ok, here we go, I have a gen 3 G34 that originally had the brass to forehead syndrome, called Glock and complained they said to send it in (which I did) and it came back with the gen 4 ejector, paperwork said tested and performed to spec. I rushed outside to shoot my "fixed" 34. Glock for the most part fixed the BTF (brass to forehead) but it was still spitting brass all over, forward (some would fall in the cutout in the front of the slide) LEFT and a high percentage would still fall ON my arms.



Some may find this acceptable but I did not, tried all the internet fixes out there, spent a fortune on new extractors and ejectors and ran over 900 rounds through the gun testing various fixes none of which worked to my satisfaction. I then started examining my other semi auto pistols and how they extracted and ejected spent rounds, the one that I wanted to mimic was my LC9, that little guy sends brass into the next zip code! One HUGE difference I noticed between the LC and the 34 was the grip the LC had on the brass, even when pulling the brass out by hand you have to get it angled allot before the "slide side" would let go, I noticed the slide on the LC had allot "grippier" feel when dragging the brass across it.



This got me thinking, maybe that sexy new coating Glock is putting on is too slippery and is not holding brass as good as the LC or the older Glocks for that matter. First thing I did was ordered the White Sound Defense extractor spring and the non LCI spring loaded bearing, thought if I put a little extra force on the empty that would help to hold the round nice and firm. This made little to no difference, in fact I noticed that day while testing that with the mag out the empty would fall right out the grip! This led me to believe the gun still was not doing a good job of holding the spent brass...... it couldn't even make it to the ejector! After more thought I decided to scrape away the coating on the side of the slide opposite the extractor, I knew this would void the warranty but figured what the heck, he warranty hasn't done me any good so far so I proceeded to remove some of the coating, low and behold it made a difference, didn't fix it but it made a bigger difference than new extractors, ejectors, RSA's, ect. did, so I decided to continue. Thought if I can make it just a bit more rough that it may get better yet, so I took a pneumatic pencil engraver and roughed the surfaces on the extractor and on the slide that the brass came in contact with.......guess what, it's fixed. I have put roughly 300 rounds through it since I have done this mod and have had ZERO go front left or straight back, I have had a couple brush my arm but it's less than 5 out of the 300 rounds. The single thing that has me convinced that this is the fix is now the gun ejects the same with the mag in or out.



I have intentionally not posted this info just because I wanted to get enough rounds through the gun to be satisfied that it's going to continue to work and I can say that I am indeed content. I want to try the 336 ejector yet, I think because the brass contact is farther left the gun will now spit brass at a flatter angle and completly clean up the few that are brushing my arm. I have a friend coming over tonight to shoot and he has the 336 in his gun (I had a few extras but with all the experimenting I have done with them they no longer have the factory geometry) I plan to swap out the ejectors to see what diffrence it makes. The gun is now 100% back to stock, just roughed up the 2 surfaces

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+1. I skimmed through it but I think he's saying he polished up the extractor. (removed the factory coating)

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yes, no matter what angle or lighting I tried I couldn't get a decent pic of the slide, this was the best out of probably 15 pics....


http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt360/tigman250/100_1900.jpg


http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt360/tigman250/100_1888.jpg

I'm hoping someone else gets inspired to try this fix, I am quite certain this has been the problem all along. You may be wondering if simply sanding the surface would work, the answer is no, I filed the surface to get rid of the coating and I left as many lateral scratches in the slide as possible, it definatly helped, but it was obvious after I used the engraver that it was MUCH better than just with the coating removed and surface slightly roughed up. I honestly think a carbide scribe would do a good enough job of leaving sharp enough lines on the slide to do the trick, honestly I wish I would have thought about that before I went with the engraving pen. When I do this again I will also start just roughing the slide and not the extractor, I'm sure if I can just keep the shell from coming off the bottom of the slide during it's cycle the problem is solved. Like I said earlier I am 100% convinced this is the fix, mainly because the gun now ejects the brass even with the magazine removed, meaning it is now hanging on to the brass and the ejector can now do it's job....... rather than relying on something random under the slide to dislodge the round whenever it drops free......


To the guys that don't want to read the whole thing, there is a reason it's so long, I wanted to explain all the details how I came to the conclusion I did, chances are if you don't want to read it your gun isn't malfunctioning as badly as others......and I did not polish the surfaces

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Do you have the WSD ext spring installed?  All Glock OEM parts?

I am intrigued by this...I wonder if the breach cut is wider side to side on the new production guns...

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what the hell makes a gun have erratic ejection?

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Just curious OP you state you've tried every fix you had heard of, did you try honing the area that makes contact against the slide like 1 thread on here suggested? I'm not talking about the area you "roughed up" that grabs the case rim, I'm talking about the little nub of metal that contacts the slide (in your bottom pic of the extractor above, its the little nub of metal just above where you touched up as you're looking at the extractor as you have it showing). In theory by honing that area the extractor claw will have more force to grab the case rim and hold on to the spent casing longer until it hits the ejector.

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Does removing this material affect the corrosion resistance of the Tenifer treatment?  My Glock has this problem and failed to extract last time at the range around 6-700 rounds in.  I feel like I waited too long to get into the Glock game and now they've gone and messed themselves up.

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So how does this explain my that my 2005 slick super teflon finish G26 demonstrated absolute reliability over several thousand rounds, but my rougher texture new G19 pelted my face every 10 rounds.

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I can't say for sure that it's a finish issue, maybe it's a metal roughness thing, maybe some slides are "deeper" or the empty does not come off the bottom as easily. Drop your mag and fire a round, if it "ejects" aka falls out the grip the extractor/slide is not able to hold the round through the slide cycle. Figure out how to get the round to stay put and your ejection problems will be solved.

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I've fired several different pistols from different manufacturers and not a single one has passed that test.  But if what you did works then cool.

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ETA: This "issue" is really overblown IMO as well. I had a G30 that would occasionally hit me in the head with brass.
Was it annoying? Yeah a little but I barely noticed it.
Did the gun still function? Yeah 100%.
Do I think I would ever notice if I had to use the weapon to defend myself or others if I ever found myself in that situation? Not 1 bit!!!
Most people involved in shootings cannot even tell you how many rounds they fired, I doubt they'll be able to tell you if the brass hit them in the head or arms.
YMMV  

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I own a G30 as well but some folks are getting way more than the occasional hit..and I've been hit on my glasses which means hot brass to the eye in a gunfight...I'd probably blink to protect the eye during a gunfight but why should I have to?

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First of all I took "hot" brass to the face, and other areas of bare skin with my G30, even near my eyes. The  time of contact is extremely short and unless the brass gets stuck to/on you somehow against your skin, it doesn't burn, not even enough to burn your eye.

Secondly, most people blink when they fire anyways. Don't get me wrong, if every other round is hitting your face or head then by all means get it looked at but if the weapon still functions 100% then an occasional empty to the head or arms is not a big deal, at least not as big as it's being made out to be IMO.

ETA: the times that I was hit with brass that landed on bare skin I never noticed the heat or burning, I noticed the "tap" of the contact.

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No offense meant but that test is a BS test. Semi auto pistols weren't designed to be run without a magazine in place so what's the point of that? I don't carry my weapons with 1 in the chamber and no magazine. It's like the other thread with the video from Apex here


That video doesn't prove shit IMO, it's just a marketing gimick.

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And to the OP, the "work" that you did on the slide was pointless as well, as you didn't touch the area that holds the round(which you can clearly see by your photo), so it's just as smooth as it was. The only meaningful  work you did was to the extractor which is probably holding onto the case rim more firmly to the breech face fixing the problem.

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FWIW I have 2 gen 3's with the "dip" extractor and 336 ejectors that run fine. Based on everything I've read online with the guns that have issues, the cut in the slide for the extractor may be slightly off/out of spec (as reported by some who measured the slide extractor cutout specs on problem guns vs working guns) on some guns, which would explain why the same "dip" style extractors are working fine in some weapons and not in others.

ETA: This "issue" is really overblown IMO as well. I had a G30 that would occasionally hit me in the head with brass.
Was it annoying? Yeah a little but I barely noticed it.
Did the gun still function? Yeah 100%.
Do I think I would ever notice if I had to use the weapon to defend myself or others if I ever found myself in that situation? Not 1 bit!!!
Most people involved in shootings cannot even tell you how many rounds they fired, I doubt they'll be able to tell you if the brass hit them in the head or arms.
YMMV  

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The purpose of that test is to ensure nothing is helping the slide/extractor hold on to the brass, if nothing is there to give it support and it falls through the grip it's not holding on to it, if it holds it long enough to contact the ejector without any support from under it then it's holding good.




I am sorry but I have to respectfully disagree with this statement and I am trying hard to not be offended by it. The area in question on the slide is indeed roughed up and it is on the opposite side of the extractor, I spent many hours researching and trying many diffrent things. I would have no way engraved my slide had I not exausted every possible fix before hand or not taken the time to hold countless pieces of spent brass between the extractor and slide comparing it to other guns to find what was diffrent. I have no idea what you are seeing in the photo, I admit it's a terrible photo but I assure you it has been modified exactly where the extractor pushes the brass against it. As I stated a few threads above I tried a stock unmodified extractor with the modded slide and there was no diffrence in ejecton, so there was no "meaningful" work done to the extractor, just a desperate attempt to get my Glock to eject like it should.






I love statements like these, the guys calling this an  "overblown issue" are the ones not experiencing it at it's worst, sure you may get the occasional wild brass and maybe a brimmed hat and saftey glasses will solve it for you. For some of us it was/is 75%+ brass hitting us, I don't know anyone who would find that acceptable.

I don't intend to start an internet fight here, I posted my tests, modifications and results, good or bad so hopefully someone else experiencing the same issues can bennifit from this. Heck I hope Glock is reading and this potentially leads them to a possible fix! I aslo want to defend my work, I dont want to see this thread discredited by statements like " And to the OP, the "work" that you did on the slide was pointless as well, as you didn't touch the area that holds the round(which you can clearly see by your photo), so it's just as smooth as it was. The only meaningful  work you did was to the extractor which is probably holding onto the case rim more firmly to the breech face fixing the problem" I think the photo shows exactly opposite of what you are saying, the slide mod is indeed in the right place and I can say (and probably 500-600 fired rounds will back me up) that it is working beautifully!

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Ok, if that's what you want to believe. The area of the slide you roughed up has nothing to do with holding the case, it's below where the case is held against the breech. You can see the "ring" on the breech face where the rounds are held while in battery, that is not the area you "fixed". If you want to believe that then go ahead.

As far as the hat and glasses I never said do either. I do say that occasional brass to the head is no big deal and I couldn't care less. I care about if the gun runs reliably, as in does it cause a stoppage and the weapon to not function. This "issue" isn't causing that, it's an inconvenience, one that I lived with and wasn't a big deal. Certainly nothing that caused me burns by bouncing brass. If it's happening more than occasionally then fine send it back and demand it be fixed.

If you want to be offended then go ahead, that is not my intention. I was merely stating my opinion of the problem as were you. I'm a GLOCK armorer and have a background in manufacturing(although a long time ago) so I understand the concept of what's going on and the engineering behind it.

As I said no offense meant, I just disagree with some of what you've said.

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When the slide cycles the round is not in battery position, I would think a Glock armorer with a manufacturing background would know this. Roll your Glock over with the mag out and an empty brass in the chamber then shine a flashlight in the magwell and watch the brass as you cycle the slide by hand........

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Ok, if that's what you want to believe. The area of the slide you roughed up has nothing to do with holding the case, it's below where the case is held against the breech. You can see the "ring" on the breech face where the rounds are held while in battery, that is not the area you "fixed". If you want to believe that then go ahead.

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When the slide cycles the round is not in battery position, I would think a Glock armorer with a manufacturing background would know this. Roll your Glock over with the mag out and an empty brass in the chamber then shine a flashlight in the magwell and watch the brass as you cycle the slide by hand........

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Yup, I know that.

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In the picture you posted it doesnt look like you did anything to the slide other than take the finish off and mar it up. it certainly doesnt look like you disrupted the metal towards where the case rim travels, thus pushing the case into the extractor as youre implying. Maybe its just a shitty photo. It does look like you caused deep gouges in the extractor claw (disrupting the metal) which would probably apply more force to the case rim, holding against the breech face. Which is why I asked if you tried honing that shoulder of the extractor earlier in the thread as that would accomplish the same thing

Instead of just going to town on your slide with and engraver perhaps you should have taken/asked for measurements to find out if that was out of spec with other working guns first.

Just a thought.

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haha nice back pedal haha





I don't recall ever saying that the intent was to push the round toward the extractor so I don't know where you got that from, maybe it was in armorer school...... from post 1 of this thread I have been saying I roughed up the surface to better hold the brass.....taking the finish off and maring it up giving it more traction.

like I have said before, I did alot of testing, comparing and experimenting before "just going to town on my slide" some of the comparing was done at the LGS measuring some of their used gun slides to compare them to mine, never found any major diffrence. please don't make assumptions.

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I give up, you win. Maybe you can start a business taking in broken GLOCKs and taking an engraving tool to them to solve this major crisis, You'll do well. Better yet you should apply to GLOCK for a job as you know more about this then they or anybody else does.

Good night.