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Posted: 6/29/2014 3:20:57 PM EDT
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I am planning a PAP build. What are you guys using to refinish your hand guards? I used True Oil on a Garand hand guard and when the barrel heated up it bubbled up then dried rough. Reading here, it seems that many people use polyurethane as the final finish. Will the polyurethane take the heat if my gun runs hot? |
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Satin poly here as well. Has held up just fine through several mag dumps. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/KOOLmike/20140618_123626_zpsxbayldlf.jpg What brand/color is that? I am getting my M92 this week and absolutely LOVE your handguard. |
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What brand/color is that? I am getting my M92 this week and absolutely LOVE your handguard. Quoted:
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Satin poly here as well. Has held up just fine through several mag dumps. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/KOOLmike/20140618_123626_zpsxbayldlf.jpg What brand/color is that? I am getting my M92 this week and absolutely LOVE your handguard. Behlen Solar Lux wood dye. Medium red mahogany with a splash of medium brown walnut mixed in. It is non grain raising, alcohol based dye, which I think is better than using any kind of dye mixed with water (may distort the wood) or an oil-based stain that might not take a poly coat well afterward. IMO, these alcohol-based dyes provide a deeper penetration and a more uniform color throughout the wood and that's why I use them for all of my stock refinishing projects. I've had this shit laying around for 10 years or more and I'm not even sure where to buy it locally these days. But here's pic of the bottles: 
Here is a page showing the color chart for Behlen wood dyes: http://www.shellac.net/SolarLuxDye.html One more thing I might mention is the choice of finish. Back when I used to refinish a lot of SKS stocks, I would have never used polyurethane because I thought the finish looked too "artificial" or "plastic" for a mil-surp weapon. The only reason I used a poly coat on these PAP hand guards is because I was out of my usual choice of either Minwax or Formby's tung oil finish. Tung oil finishes provide more of a natural look that compliments the wood on a military firearm perfectly, IMO, plus you can easily dull or "age" the shine down to your liking by lightly rubbing it with 0000 steel wool once it has dried/hardened. Now if you decide to get some of this stuff, make sure it is a tung oil FINISH and not just pure tung oil. Pure tung oil does not have driers added and will not harden. Damn, didn't mean to make this post so long but I just wanted to explain why I think the combination of an alcohol-based wood dye and a nice tung oil finish is the best thing for refinishing military firearms furniture. Good luck and feel free to IM me if you decide to go this route and have any questions. 
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Amber shellac tinted with burnt sienna artist's acrylic paint. The acrylic paint is a PITA to mix into the shellac, but it was all I had on hand.
The trick to using Shellac is to thin it with denatured alcohol, and brush it on fast. It'll almost dry on contact. I wouldn't go more than 4-6 thin coats since new layers tend to dissolve previous layers. The cone booster was hit with Rust O'Leum Appliance Epoxy baked @ 400' for an hour. Matches the rest of the gun and is tougher than nails. What you can't see is the pieces of aluminum flashing I rolled up between the barrel & lower handguard. Old trick I learned from shooting G3 clones with the skinny guards. Beats shooting with oven mitts. 
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