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Posted: 3/24/2003 5:05:53 PM EDT
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Does anyone know what the Barrel Twist is for the Saiga .223 ? I have the 16" Barrel with the Nylon Stock. |
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insert a patch on your clening rod and insert into the bore. mark one spot, radially, on the rod withe a piece of tape that is flush with the edge of the muzzle. slowly withdraw the rod untill that mark has made one complete revolution. measure the distance from the botton of the tape to the muzzle...that is your twist rate. the izhmash built .223 ak-108 has a quoted twist rate of 1:178mm or 1:7" the ak-107 (5.45x39.5) is quoted at 1:200mm or 1:7.9" |
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Campy's got the method down! I did that with my Saiga .223 when I first got it and measured EXACTLY one twist in nine inches. It also has a 5.56 chamber, not .223  All of the information I could find on it said it had a 1/7 twist, including talking to Chris Butler at AK-USA who converts them to stock AKs, but when I tested mine, and I did it several times, I consistently got 1/9. Go figure. Maybe the older ones are 1/7 and newer ones are 1/9? I'll ask Noah what his are. |
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I finally picked up the .223 (as well as the .308) and checked out the rifling when I got home. Mine came out as 1:9" twist. Production was from January of this year. Can't wait to test it out at the range! BTW, does anyone know how to take the forearm off of the rifle? |
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Don't remove the sling swivel screw if you have a wood stocked rifle! That's not what holds it on (well, not really). The swivel screw holds the front retainer clip and has small parts to loose if you remove it. plastic stock- you must remove the gas tube first, then slide the handguard forward off the rifle. The handguard has a molded channel in each side of the front that slides back around the ends of a long pin in the uderside of the gas block. The gas tube has a flange around the rear the sits in a recess cut into the sides of the handguard to keep the handguard from sliding forward, so it must be removed first. When reinstalling the handguard, be sure that the channel catches the gas block pin or the front will wobble. Wood stock- the gas tube does not hold the handguard on (I think). The rear attachment is made by a screw through the uderside of the reciever that holds handguard in place. The attachment at the front is the same (metal retainer held on by swivel screw and gas block pin). Remove the rear screw and slide the handguard forward (you MAY have to romove the gas tube as well). |
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Arrrgggghhh!!! Too late! I removed the front sling swivel (only to hear some little pieces falling towards the receiver inside the forearm). I didn't see a screw to hold the .223 forearm in place on the underside of the receiver (like the .308) so, as an AK newbie, thought that maybe the sling swivel screw/stud served two purposes! (Actually only one, since I don't think I could find a sling as narrow as what they expect to put through those loops!) Thanks for the instructions...I'll try to work on it this evening to get it back together (sling swivel). |
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The little oval threaded plate goes inside the recess in the retainer clip and the stud screw comes in from the underside. But there's a better fix. Go to Wal-Mart and buy an Uncle Mike's swivel stud set for a generic bolt action rifle. The swivel with the wood screw can be installed in the butt (after you open up the hole a bit) and the swivel with the machine threads MATCHES THE THREADS IN THE HANDGUARD RETAINER! Granted, the screw is a bit long, but you can cut it off to the right length or/and add some washers as spacers to fit flush and there you go! Standard US swivel studs installed! I also had trouble with the handguard moving side to side, so I pinched the reatiner fingers together a bit, and wrapped the extension that slides into the receiver with a bit of duct tape so it would fit snug and added a rubber washer to the screw that holds it in so it wouldn't slide around. The above comments reply to my 308 wood stocked version. You can use two wood screw studs on the polymer stocks. Just screw "em in! |
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