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Posted: 1/17/2014 8:53:17 PM EDT
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I just started work on a pistol grip trigger conversion for my Saiga .308, and so far have a few questions: 1- As you see, the rivet holes weren't drilled out "perfectly," is this an issue for when I mount the new triggerguard? 2- What holes need to be filled in and what do you suggest I use to do that? 3- I did not drill out the "middle rivet" because I'm not reusing the factory triggerguard, but also, I can't seem to get the triggerguard and plate to separate from the receiver. It looks like there are two more rivets or welds of some sort (you see where I tried to drill them out, but failed because my bit got too worn), thing is, I didn't hear anything about these two welds/rivets anywhere in conversion tutorials/instructions, how do I separate this plate and triggerguard? 4- I have a Tapco stock and pistol grip that were on the rifle in its standard configuration, will both of these still work even with the forward triggerguard? BTW, the kit I bought is the Deluxe Conversion kit from Dinzag Arms... Thanks a lot for the help! Photo link: http://s80.photobucket.com/user/drivebyrachko/library/Saiga%20Project |
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Quoted: I just started work on a pistol grip trigger conversion for my Saiga .308, and so far have a few questions: 1- As you see, the rivet holes weren't drilled out "perfectly," is this an issue for when I mount the new triggerguard? 2- What holes need to be filled in and what do you suggest I use to do that? 3- I did not drill out the "middle rivet" because I'm not reusing the factory triggerguard, but also, I can't seem to get the triggerguard and plate to separate from the receiver. It looks like there are two more rivets or welds of some sort (you see where I tried to drill them out, but failed because my bit got too worn), thing is, I didn't hear anything about these two welds/rivets anywhere in conversion tutorials/instructions, how do I separate this plate and triggerguard? 4- I have a Tapco stock and pistol grip that were on the rifle in its standard configuration, will both of these still work even with the forward triggerguard? BTW, the kit I bought is the Deluxe Conversion kit from Dinzag Arms... Thanks a lot for the help! Photo link: http://s80.photobucket.com/user/drivebyrachko/library/Saiga%20Project 2. I recently filled holes with JB weld and then sanded them down and painted over them. A lot easier than welding, but one did pop out. 3. I've never done a .308 conversion, so I do not have 1st hand knowledge, but it seems to me that these welds need to be removed to get the plate off. You may try to slowly drill them with a 1/4" bit. Go slow, the point is the drill the plate, not through it and into the receiver. I'm sure you will need to do some clean up to the receiver once the plate is removed. 4. The pistol grip looks like it should work, but you will need a different screw and a standard AK grip nut. The stock should still work, but will be longer than necessary. Hope that helps. |
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The way I remove a spot weld is to use a Dremel and the fiber reinforced cut off wheels. I dust the face slowly removing a pocket of metal, once I get close to the second layer I flex the part being removed, the weld edges will appear as a faint line when the part flexes. Remove a little more and flex again until it snaps off. Then smooth the high spot with the sanding wheel.. Remember, any time you spend being careful is saved not having to fix holes in the metal.
A spot weld is really hard to drill, the welds are harder then the surrounding steel.. Plus you don't want holes there anyway. Cut off wheels can cut through hardened steel with ease, plus you can just slowly grind through one layer rather then making holes. Be aware that the dust from both cut off wheels and sanding wheels can cause lung damage. So wear at least a dust mask, and have good ventilation. Safety glasses or a face shield are also highly recommended. I love my .308, its a nice shooting rifle. Just wish the ammo was cheaper. 
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