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Posted: 10/4/2014 7:36:52 PM EDT
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Quoted:
Sorry, we had to ask. Gotta try the low hanging fruit first. 
If it's red loctite, I think you're supposed to heat it to around 400degF and then it should break. I completely understand asking the basics. Im like that when teaching friends how to cast bullets. Ill see if I can find a torch/heat gun and try to break it. Ill keep you all posted on the success or failure. |
So I took a heat gun to the muzzle break today and got it nice and hot. Had my brother depress the pin as far as he could and tried to unscrew this thing. It tried so hard in fact that I somehow managed to cut my hand open from trying to twist this damn thing off . After all of that I still couldnt get this thing to come off. I know that aks are taken off by unscrewing to the right but this thing was forged by satin. If I use a dremel, is it possible to cut this off without damaging the threads?
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| I had the same problem a few years back when I had a WASR. Channel locks and He-Man strength are what ultimately won the fight. However, once I got the damn thing off, I found the threads were not in the typical combloc pattern, but were instead 5/8-24 as used on the AR-10. Weird. |
| It would be odd for a slant brake to be blind pinned on an AK. Typically they are spot welded to the fsp. At this point, i'd brake out a dremel and split the brake off the threads. With a steady hand, if you cut both sides there should be minimal damage to the threads if any. |
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Quoted:
It would be odd for a slant brake to be blind pinned on an AK. Typically they are spot welded to the fsp. At this point, i'd brake out a dremel and split the brake off the threads. With a steady hand, if you cut both sides there should be minimal damage to the threads if any. When cutting, is it easy to tell once you are hitting the threads? I know there cant be that much metal to go through. Thanks again for all of the advice. |
| My two very early post bans were tapped 1/2"X20 NF RIGHT HAND. Looked as if they ran the muzzle through the die after the fact, without removing the front sight base. The result, was that it left a shoulder immediately forward of the base, and when turned in tight left a gap between the forward face of the base and the flange of the brake, looking much like in your picture. It drove me nuts so I chucked the brake up on the lathe and made a relief cut on the inside diameter so it would clear the last few uncut thread portions and butt up against the sight base when tight. Not all of them are proper left hand threads. By any chance was this rifle from 2004-2006? |
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