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Posted: 9/1/2011 9:06:48 AM EDT
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You guys have any tips before i start taking the weld off the muzzle nut? i will be putting something on the end. not sure what yet. just want something other then the nut on the end. it will be a US part to keep it up on 922. any tips would be great
thanks stuck |
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Check the TAPCO line. They have several muzzle brakes to select from and they are 922r compliant. This is the one I just ordered: http://www.tapco.com/products/ak/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=53 I went to the Tapco site and ordered a slant brake from Miss. Auto Arms, placed the order at 2:35 hrs and just got a confirmation from them at 3PM that is has shipped!!!!!!!! Man, talk about fast turn around!!! |
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Check the TAPCO line. They have several muzzle brakes to select from and they are 922r compliant. This is the one I just ordered: http://www.tapco.com/products/ak/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=53 I went to the Tapco site and ordered a slant brake from Miss. Auto Arms, placed the order at 2:35 hrs and just got a confirmation from them at 3PM that is has shipped!!!!!!!! Man, talk about fast turn around!!! It arrived in the mail today. SWEET!! |
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Check the TAPCO line. They have several muzzle brakes to select from and they are 922r compliant. This is the one I just ordered: http://www.tapco.com/products/ak/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=53 I went to the Tapco site and ordered a slant brake from Miss. Auto Arms, placed the order at 2:35 hrs and just got a confirmation from them at 3PM that is has shipped!!!!!!!! Man, talk about fast turn around!!! It arrived in the mail today. SWEET!! I ordered from someone else and now I won't see mine until 9/7. 
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any tips on taking it off? Here is a youtube video on removing the nut. It's a Draco shown but ithe process is the same for the WASR. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXorTnmOTNc&feature=related Why is it so very hard to hot link? Good instructions by the way. You can avoid the "beauty marks" by chucking the barrel between two pieces of soft wood in a good vice and keeping two hands on the cut-off tool. As one commentor stated, using a good Jewelers saw and a #1 cutting blade is faster, cleaner, and produces a more professional cut. |
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any tips on taking it off? Here is a youtube video on removing the nut. It's a Draco shown but ithe process is the same for the WASR. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXorTnmOTNc&feature=related Why is it so very hard to hot link? Good instructions by the way. You can avoid the "beauty marks" by chucking the barrel between two pieces of soft wood in a good vice and keeping two hands on the cut-off tool. As one commentor stated, using a good Jewelers saw and a #1 cutting blade is faster, cleaner, and produces a more professional cut. Not being a smart ass and I know it may be frustrating to some but care to share on how to do this? This is the only forum I belong to that I can’t just copy and past a link and have it highlighted so others can click on it . I know I’m probably missing something in the "how to section" but being an old curmudgeon and not all that computer literate, I need to be lead by the hand at time. Help will be appreciated. |
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any tips on taking it off? Here is a youtube video on removing the nut. It's a Draco shown but ithe process is the same for the WASR. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXorTnmOTNc&feature=related Why is it so very hard to hot link? Good instructions by the way. You can avoid the "beauty marks" by chucking the barrel between two pieces of soft wood in a good vice and keeping two hands on the cut-off tool. As one commentor stated, using a good Jewelers saw and a #1 cutting blade is faster, cleaner, and produces a more professional cut. Not being a smart ass and I know it may be frustrating to some but care to share on how to do this? This is the only forum I belong to that I can’t just copy and past a link and have it highlighted so others can click on it . I know I’m probably missing something in the "how to section" but being an old curmudgeon and not all that computer literate, I need to be lead by the hand at time. Help will be appreciated. when u go to write there a bunch of black boxs under where u type. the send to the last one says add a link. just click there and go from there. i have never got why u cant just post a link like most forums. stuck |
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any tips on taking it off? Here is a youtube video on removing the nut. It's a Draco shown but ithe process is the same for the WASR. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXorTnmOTNc&feature=related Why is it so very hard to hot link? Good instructions by the way. You can avoid the "beauty marks" by chucking the barrel between two pieces of soft wood in a good vice and keeping two hands on the cut-off tool. As one commentor stated, using a good Jewelers saw and a #1 cutting blade is faster, cleaner, and produces a more professional cut. Not being a smart ass and I know it may be frustrating to some but care to share on how to do this? This is the only forum I belong to that I can’t just copy and past a link and have it highlighted so others can click on it . I know I’m probably missing something in the "how to section" but being an old curmudgeon and not all that computer literate, I need to be lead by the hand at time. Help will be appreciated. URL link, just place the link between these brackets with the left side bracket bars turned inside ]url] ]/url] like this[url [/url hth |
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Did you get your muzzle nut off?
I cut mine off last winter, and found out it was un-threaded underneath. 
Now I need to figure out if I need to go with a threaded Romanian FSB, which pretty much limits me to a 74-style brake, or if I've got enough meat on there to get it tapped and threaded to a common pitch for various devices. (I think I'd like my WASR to wear a traditional slant brake). My SAR 2 with the 5.45 barrel was too skinny for any manner of threading, so I had to cut the whole FSB off, and pound/pin a new Romanian threaded one from K-Var on then get a CNC Warrior 22mm Romy style 74 brake. |
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Now I need to figure out if I need to go with a threaded Romanian FSB, which pretty much limits me to a 74-style brake, or if I've got enough meat on there to get it tapped and threaded to a common pitch for various devices. (I think I'd like my WASR to wear a traditional slant brake). In order to thread the barrel 14X1 the diameter must be at least .550. |
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Did you get your muzzle nut off? I cut mine off last winter, and found out it was un-threaded underneath.
Now I need to figure out if I need to go with a threaded Romanian FSB, which pretty much limits me to a 74-style brake, or if I've got enough meat on there to get it tapped and threaded to a common pitch for various devices. (I think I'd like my WASR to wear a traditional slant brake). My SAR 2 with the 5.45 barrel was too skinny for any manner of threading, so I had to cut the whole FSB off, and pound/pin a new Romanian threaded one from K-Var on then get a CNC Warrior 22mm Romy style 74 brake. yep got it off the other night. threads under it so i was happy. thanks for all the help guys stuck |
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If it's a WASR 10/63 and it has the detent spring and plunger which locks the nut or compensator, it probably has a threaded barrel. If it's a WASR made before 2005 and the detent and spring is missing, it probably doesn't have a threaded muzzle. It has the detent spring and plunger. |
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I cut mine off last winter, and found out it was un-threaded underneath.
Now I need to figure out if I need to go with a threaded Romanian FSB, which pretty much limits me to a 74-style brake, or if I've got enough meat on there to get it tapped and threaded to a common pitch for various devices. (I think I'd like my WASR to wear a traditional slant brake). You can always tack weld the slant brake in place if you can't thread your barrel correctly. |
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