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Posted: 4/5/2009 5:52:34 PM EDT
| Whats the general consensus on this. I have a UF with a nice dark red wood and have been toying with the idea of polishing the bolt. I'm really torn though because I like the black and feel its more traditional. Should I do it and just not look back or keep it black, whats your thoughts? |
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Is that Ironwood? Also, thats a slick way to keep the sling out of the way. Digging those pics :) Tempting me to get on the waiting list. Yup, its Ironwood.  Its laminated wood, with my own red recipe.
Matt at Ironwood is geting caught up, so now would be a good time to order. |
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Is that Ironwood? Also, thats a slick way to keep the sling out of the way. Digging those pics :) Tempting me to get on the waiting list. Yup, its Ironwood. Its laminated wood, with my own red recipe.
Matt at Ironwood is geting caught up, so now would be a good time to order. Very nice aesthetics!! Care to share your secret recipe, looking to get a shade and tone like yours. |
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Is that Ironwood? Also, thats a slick way to keep the sling out of the way. Digging those pics :) Tempting me to get on the waiting list. Yup, its Ironwood. Its laminated wood, with my own red recipe.
Matt at Ironwood is geting caught up, so now would be a good time to order. Very nice aesthetics!! Care to share your secret recipe, looking to get a shade and tone like yours. Ill be glad to help. Not problem at all. Heres my recipe: If you want to get an even color you will have to use new unfinished wood. Wood from Ironwood is starting off on the right path. New wood is easier to stain over previously finished wood. Before doing any finishing fit all of the wood to the rifle, trim and blend the wood where ever you need. For the base color, I use non diluted red food color. Get the larger bottle instead of the pack with multiple colors. he smaller packs red isnt enough to finish the dying process. I apply it with a q-tip. Usually the q-tips fray out so youll need about a dozen before you get everything red. Once all done let it air dry for 2 hours, then wash the wood with hot water. It may get lighter, even may look pink, but thats ok. Once the stock air drys (hairdryer or heat gun dries it faster) I apply Minwax Red Oak 215 Stain with brush. I lay it on thick and then wipe off almost immediately with blue shop paper towels (they dont leave much lint of fray easy). Once the color is right let it set for a day to dry. At this stage you can start applying the High gloss Rub on Minwax Polyeurethane. Use the blue shop papertowels again for this. Youll have to apply about 10-15 coats before the finish builds up enough to fill the grain. Once the grain is filled apply single coats with a LIGHT 600 grit sanding between coats for about 10 coats. Dont ever sand too deeply because youll cut throught the Minwax Stain and the color wont be even in the heavy sanded spot. Once all grain is built up you can start applying th final stages. Again if you have to sand too heavy through the polyurethane then just apply more finish. Dont cut too deep. On the final 6 coats sand with 600 grit between coats. Wait one day in between applying each of the last 6 coats. Once the last coat is applied let it sit for a week to harden before installing. Please let me know if this made any sense. ill be glad to assist you in your project. Just let me know. Chad |
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Is that Ironwood? Also, thats a slick way to keep the sling out of the way. Digging those pics :) Tempting me to get on the waiting list. Yup, its Ironwood. Its laminated wood, with my own red recipe.
Matt at Ironwood is geting caught up, so now would be a good time to order. Very nice aesthetics!! Care to share your secret recipe, looking to get a shade and tone like yours. Ill be glad to help. Not problem at all. Heres my recipe: If you want to get an even color you will have to use new unfinished wood. Wood from Ironwood is starting off on the right path. New wood is easier to stain over previously finished wood. Before doing any finishing fit all of the wood to the rifle, trim and blend the wood where ever you need. For the base color, I use non diluted red food color. Get the larger bottle instead of the pack with multiple colors. he smaller packs red isnt enough to finish the dying process. I apply it with a q-tip. Usually the q-tips fray out so youll need about a dozen before you get everything red. Once all done let it air dry for 2 hours, then wash the wood with hot water. It may get lighter, even may look pink, but thats ok. Once the stock air drys (hairdryer or heat gun dries it faster) I apply Minwax Red Oak 215 Stain with brush. I lay it on thick and then wipe off almost immediately with blue shop paper towels (they dont leave much lint of fray easy). Once the color is right let it set for a day to dry. At this stage you can start applying the High gloss Rub on Minwax Polyeurethane. Use the blue shop papertowels again for this. Youll have to apply about 10-15 coats before the finish builds up enough to fill the grain. Once the grain is filled apply single coats with a LIGHT 600 grit sanding between coats for about 10 coats. Dont ever sand too deeply because youll cut throught the Minwax Stain and the color wont be even in the heavy sanded spot. Once all grain is built up you can start applying th final stages. Again if you have to sand too heavy through the polyurethane then just apply more finish. Dont cut too deep. On the final 6 coats sand with 600 grit between coats. Wait one day in between applying each of the last 6 coats. Once the last coat is applied let it sit for a week to harden before installing. Please let me know if this made any sense. ill be glad to assist you in your project. Just let me know. Chad Chad, Thanks for sharing your awesome tips... I've always wanted to go with Ironwoods. Been looking to replace my post-ban SA85 with the them, as well as my new Romy kit. But REALLY red food dye.. Very interesting, never would have thought to use that. Btw, if I were to choose to experiment with a semi-gloss or semi-matte, would that work out with the same technique as well? Your rifle looks to nice to shoot! Thanks Eric |
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Is that Ironwood? Also, thats a slick way to keep the sling out of the way. Digging those pics :) Tempting me to get on the waiting list. Yup, its Ironwood. Its laminated wood, with my own red recipe.
Matt at Ironwood is geting caught up, so now would be a good time to order. Very nice aesthetics!! Care to share your secret recipe, looking to get a shade and tone like yours. Ill be glad to help. Not problem at all. Heres my recipe: If you want to get an even color you will have to use new unfinished wood. Wood from Ironwood is starting off on the right path. New wood is easier to stain over previously finished wood. Before doing any finishing fit all of the wood to the rifle, trim and blend the wood where ever you need. For the base color, I use non diluted red food color. Get the larger bottle instead of the pack with multiple colors. he smaller packs red isnt enough to finish the dying process. I apply it with a q-tip. Usually the q-tips fray out so youll need about a dozen before you get everything red. Once all done let it air dry for 2 hours, then wash the wood with hot water. It may get lighter, even may look pink, but thats ok. Once the stock air drys (hairdryer or heat gun dries it faster) I apply Minwax Red Oak 215 Stain with brush. I lay it on thick and then wipe off almost immediately with blue shop paper towels (they dont leave much lint of fray easy). Once the color is right let it set for a day to dry. At this stage you can start applying the High gloss Rub on Minwax Polyeurethane. Use the blue shop papertowels again for this. Youll have to apply about 10-15 coats before the finish builds up enough to fill the grain. Once the grain is filled apply single coats with a LIGHT 600 grit sanding between coats for about 10 coats. Dont ever sand too deeply because youll cut throught the Minwax Stain and the color wont be even in the heavy sanded spot. Once all grain is built up you can start applying th final stages. Again if you have to sand too heavy through the polyurethane then just apply more finish. Dont cut too deep. On the final 6 coats sand with 600 grit between coats. Wait one day in between applying each of the last 6 coats. Once the last coat is applied let it sit for a week to harden before installing. Please let me know if this made any sense. ill be glad to assist you in your project. Just let me know. Chad Chad, Thanks for sharing your awesome tips... I've always wanted to go with Ironwoods. Been looking to replace my post-ban SA85 with the them, as well as my new Romy kit. But REALLY red food dye.. Very interesting, never would have thought to use that. Btw, if I were to choose to experiment with a semi-gloss or semi-matte, would that work out with the same technique as well? Your rifle looks to nice to shoot! Thanks Eric I have to give credit to my wife for the red food coloring. I used to use red RIT clothing dye. I ran out one night late while doing some wood work and was pretty upset, my wife said, hey why wouldnt red food color work?..................I turned and looked at her..........  , well it worked, so when I recomend my method I sugest that because its easier to find than RIT dye. 
Youll be fine using semi gloss, or satin finishes. There wont be any prpoblems atall. I like minwax polyurethane bacause it very durable and easy to find around here. If your using a satin finish I recomend minwax in a spray can. Its easy to apply and looks fantastic. Heres my Yugo SKS with satin polyurethane: 
If you need anything else Eric, be sure to ask, ill be glad to offer my advice Chad
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Nice stock finish ! But what I want to know is did the rifle come with that rick black parkerizing if not who did it and what did they use ? That is some of the best looking park that I have seen ! Please let us know ? Do you mean my AK? If so yes it has a parkerized finish that I applied at my shop. After the park job I applied Alumahyde II from Brownells to seal everything up. Its super durable. For even more durability I can apply a black falt ceramic finish over the park as well which is almost indestructible, but that cost more and I wasnt feeling like ding any more to my gun that day. The SKS had the factory blueing. Let me know if I answered everything properly. Chad
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Clandestine; how do you like the Larue? Is there any magnification or just the dot? Also does the iron still work ok. TIA riggins You can use the irons perfectly. Its a very well thought out sight. There is no magnification, but the setup it a big improvement over running an iron sighted AK. The sighting speed and accuracy have improved at least 30%-50%. I have thoroughly torture tested mine with no issues. If you have an underfolder the Irondot rocks. If you have a fixed stock with a side rail I recomend a Russain Kobra sight. If you have a fixed stock AK with no side rail then I would get an Ultimak with a Aimpoint Micro if you have a good budget ($600), if you would prefer to stay on a budget ($300) then the Irondot cant be touched.
Let me know if I can answer any other questions. Ill be gald to help. ETA: I have installed about a dozen Irondots on customer AK's and havent recieved one complaint. |
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