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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Those Darn PSLs (Page 1 of 4)
Posted: 10/3/2008 12:14:59 PM EDT
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AIM seems to have a few. they seem to be a pretty good price as well. what do ya think of it? buy buy buy now while its cheap? www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Romanian_PSL_7.62x54R_Rifle.html and what about this ammo? its seems like a damn good deal, but it isn't corrosive right? i need a couple of wooden boxes around. www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Polish_7.62x54R_147grn_Silver_Tip_Light_Ball.html |
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Dude you should never post a "should I buy this rifle" on a gun board, you know what kind of responses you'll get-lol! Regret is not buying a gun, buying a gun and finding out you don't like it is a learning experience. All joking aside, I would recommend anyone with the means and the desire to have a PSL to get one ASAP. Either you'll love it and wonder why you didn't get it sooner or you'll decide it's not your thing and recoup your money when you sell it. My only regret after buying mine was that I didn't get two of them, I'm sure she would like to have a twin sister hanging around! I'm not sure about that ammo but I would expect it to be corrosive, I might order some as well in the next couple of weeks and that's how I will treat it. |
Some people are just evil enough to tell you to buy that Vulcan AR!!! |
| Thats a damn good deal on the ammo. Just ordered a tin of russian surplus from CTD for 100 bucks. Ammo probably is corrosive, but as long as you clean your gun after you shoot (Which should be done with or without corrosive ammo) it will be just fine. Most surplus ammo from any of those countries is corrosive, so chances are it is. Just clean her up good and you will be fine. |
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how about this stuff????????????? www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=115928&t=11082005 |
It may not be corrosive but it is heavy ball and may not be suitable for a PSL. There is an ongoing argument about it but, long story short, bullet weights from 147-150 grains are generally considered best for these rifles. Some folks shoot heavy ball and claim no ill effects but it probably has alot to do with how much and how often it's used. It may or may not be an actual issue but I decided to play it safe and stick to the lighter bullets. |
What do you think after looking at these pictures?     I've said over and over, anyone who doesn't pick one of these up now, is going to regret it later.
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dude, your pics are what made me want to get a PSL. ordered one from AIM just now. a PM with finishing instructions is humbly requested. |
Here is a repost from a previous thread about it. Enjoy, and use some patience when you do it, and pay attention to detail. It will turn out nicer.  There are many different ways to do it. I'll share mine. I'm not saying it's the best, but I've done dozens of sets of wood for my collection over the years, and this is what I think works. I use a finish remover/paint stripper if it is not a oil based finish. I use steel wool to rub off the old finish that has had the paint stripper on it. If it's oil based, I use Castrol Super Clean and steel wool. It strips down the wood completely. For the PSL, after this step, I sanded with 200grit and 320 grit paper. I used to use finer paper, but I think for military stocks, it gets them too smooth, and makes them too shiny. -- Once all the grinding marks were gone from the stock; most stocks don't have them this bad, I stained with with Minwax Sedona Red oil based stain. I did three coats of stain to get the desired darkness I was looking for. If you add too many, you might lose the laminated wood look of the PSL. If you don't do enough, you can see too much of the ugly glue layers, that show up on some of the PSL stocks, in the weirdest areas. Some of the layers had the grain going in the wrong direction. The extra coats help to hide this a little. I waited about 5hrs between stains. You apply the stain with a sponge brush, but wipe off the excess after about 10min. Then let it dry, until the next coat. You want to make sure you don't leave any wipe marks in the stain, so I rub off the excess with a paper towel. It soaks up some, and allows you to apply it fairly evenly. Rub with the grain. --After the stain has dried over night, I applied (I think) Minwax's Polyurethane for indoors and outdoors. It protects the wood from UV light. I found that the spray can bottles work the best for an even finish. You can buy the same stuff in a pint that you put on with a brush, but you will have brush marks, no matter what you do, even if you don't use a brush and try to apply with something else; even your finger. Anyway, I like the even coats that you can get with the spray can. I use the "Satin" finish, but some people might want the semi gloss more for the Com block rifles. The "satin" also hides some imperfections that you might get in the finish, because it's not so shiny. After the thin coat has dried, I put on two more coats. Let them dry over night. --Next, polish the finish with 1500grit sand paper. It takes off any imperfections in the finish, and gets the finish to a very, very flat level. Then apply another coat of finish. Let it dry. If there are still imperfections, repeat the sanding/polishing, and again apply the Poly. --Finally, I rub a little furniture polish/wax on the stock, and buff it off with a old rag. That's it. I use a different method for any stock with walnut wood, using Linseed oil. |
Thats what I used for mine, but I used the high gloss Spray on Minwax Polyurethane. Mine took a while longer than the Satin ones Ive done due to the high gloss finish. The Satin usually takes 5-7 coats. The high gloss takes 10-15 coats, then hand rubbing. |
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Quoted:
Clandestine, can you repost all the things you did with your rifle again? That is one hell of a set-up you have going on there. Sure my friend Heres the details: Here's the list of Upgrades I performed on my PSL. `Installed a Blackjack Buffer (Insurance, Protects the Firing Pin from Mushrooming) `Lapped the Carrier/Receiver Rails `Polished the Chamber with Flitz `Eliminated Side Mount Throw Lever (Installed Hex Bolt to attain maximum tension) `Reprofiled Hammer to remove Bolt Carrier Drag `Polished Firing Pin to reduce Slam Fire Possibility `Installed Extended SVD Slip on Recoil Pad (Extends Length of Pull) NOT SHOWN IN PIC `Installed Hard Rubber Cheekrest to attain consistent Cheek Weld (Attached via Velcro so it can be removed) `Installed a Russian SVD Side Mount with Weaver Rail, and Adjustable Millet 30MM Rings `Silver Soldered Gas Piston to the Carrier to eliminate wobble `Tac Welded Side Rail to remove the flexing from the factory spot welds `16X42 30MM SWFA Super Sniper Scope `Turned Brake in Lathe to attain the tightest index possible (No Wobble) `RSA Trigger (3#) `Tuned Safety `11 Degree Target Crown (Lathe) `Refinished Metal in Black Stealth Coating `Refinished the Factory Wood in High Gloss Russian Red (Polyurethane) `Installed Bipod on the Barrel(Tried it on the Receiver and Handguard and groups opened up) I tried every Surplus Load and Commercial Load I could find. The following results were the best of all the ammunition tested All rounds fired with 30 second pause between shots. My Average Results with Wolf 148Gr was 2.1" at 100yrds/5 shots My Average Results with My Rifles favored Surplus Load was 2.2" at 100yrds/5 shots My Average Results with 7N1 was 1.64" at 100yrds/5 shots My Average Results with Wolf 148Gr was 4.65" at 100yrds/10 shots My Average Results with My Rifles favored Surplus Load was 5.3" at 100yrds/10 shots My Average Results with 7N1 was 3.25" at 100yrds/10 shots So I decided to send out my PSL for Cyro Treatment for the Barreled Receiver. Here's the results after. My Average Results with Wolf 148Gr was 1.8" at 100yrds/5 shots My Average Results with My Rifles favored Surplus Load was 2.1" at 100yrds/5 shots My Average Results with 7N1 was 1.45" at 100yrds/5 shots My Average Results with Wolf 148Gr was 2.65" at 100yrds/10 shots My Average Results with My Rifles favored Surplus Load was 2.25" at 100yrds/10 shots My Average Results with 7N1 was 1.85" at 100yrds/10 shots Edit: Im going to eliminate the bipod and fabricate a barrel weight to emulate the bipod being installed. The barrel likes the weight in that sopt and shoots best there. Im not sure what ill use but Ill make it look good. I also plan on modifying the side mount and lowering the scope height. Chad |
I used this one: Cheekrest Its made of very hard rubber and its solid. It is equipped with holes and mounting screws, but I didn't want to make the cheekrest permanent or drill my stock. I decided to use industrial Velcro to secure it (soft side on the stock so its soft on your face if the cheekrest is removed). I filled the holes with fiberglass resin (Bondo Brand), and painted it with texture paint from Home Depot (I think they call it Fleck Stone) I have used it on Mausers, Mosin Nagants, HK91's, SKS's, PSL's, 700's, M70's, AK's and AR15's. My customers really like this mod I created. I can cover them in Fabric (Canvas or Burlap), or cover them with thin leather. I use 5 Minute epoxy to glue the fabric and leather to the cheekrests. Chad |
I like that Pic. Great job and beautiful PSL. |
Thanks MAKAK47, I really appreciate the kind words. I put a good bit of work into her. When I have it on the rack at the shop it seems to draw in everyones attention. If you want any imore nfo on my mods feel free to ask. Ill be glad to point out what and where I got what I have. Its a real soft shooter too. My 10, 9, and 8 year old all handle the recoil fine. Chad |
 I think youll really enjoythe rifle. With a couple of slight mods it can shoot quite well. Chad
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Thank you, but after seeing everything you’ve done to yours I’m jealous… |
 Well just have to agree to envy each others rifle.
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Thanks T-Man45 Please dont let my pics make you hesitate to post your rifle. I still get envious when i see peoples stock PSL's. Theres something intriguing about the PSL especially in stock form. |
I like the looks of them too. It's unique and seems to get the pulse revved up when you see one- especially for the first time. When I refinished mine I went for the look of the nicer factory finish I've seen on some of the more recent imports. If you would like to see mine check out my thread, "Quality time with my PSL." That is if you want to. I've decided to make it my Winter project. I'll have the metal refinished and get another scope with higher magnification. What is the scope on yours? |
Thats a nice rfle you have. The scope in the pics is a SWFA SS 20Power, 30MM Tube, 42MM Objective. It runs $299. I also have a russian 8 power scope as well. I shoot the PSL about 30% better with the 20X than the 8X russian. Scope Link |
Thats messed up. I have had good luck but that dosent mean there isnt problems with Kalinka. |
Thanks for the heads up on Kalinkas I will take that into consideration. I'm not sure at this point what I'll get or where I'll get it this is going to be my Christmas present from my wife. |
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Red Soldier Try these guys once. I don't know them from experience but they have a lot of stuff. |
you hot linked this thread in its self? |
Did that come out of the box that way? If it did the quality has sure went up on the PSL's lately. Really nice!
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oh damn I did... Red Soldier Try this one instead, also check out Tantal, he's got some very nice rifle scopes |
its ok, i alraedy knew of the company. they seem to be always sold of russian scopes tho... who is this tantal? |
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Optics Page Entrance Page This is Tantal's page, it should help. |
Thank you for posting this, I had heard of Tantals but had no idea they offered optics. |
This. he has excellent pages! wish they had prices listed tho... |
Yup Yup!! |
WOW, Nice |
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Since I didn't do it already, here's the obligatory pics of my new PSL. http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa145/comicscans/guns/PSL1.jpg http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa145/comicscans/guns/PSL2.jpg |
Thanks. I feel like I got lucky, reading some of the stories of horrible finishes on these things. Yes, it is just like yours with the bay lug ground down, and the spot weld on the muzzle break. The break will come off if you file it or dremel it off. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Those Darn PSLs (Page 1 of 4)
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