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Posted: 11/7/2008 11:30:51 AM EDT
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I have a Romy with a Tapco G2 trigger double group. I sometimes get a two round burst, with the hammer staying forward on the third cycle without engaging the sear (Hammer forward and round in chamber). In addtion, I sometimes the hammer stays forward after a shot (no burst, round in chamber, and hammer forward).
The trigger was a Tapco G2 single and change to a Tapco G2 double based on the above same scenario. The AK was orginally built by a good builder as noted on the site. He also did the change over of the trigggers and ran 100 rounds with no problems (when the first problem occured). Any suggestions, I am not a gunsmith but looking at differnent articals I may be bump firing and not knowing it (holding the trigger in the same postion after the sear disconneted). Note: Shooting Wolf Classic Military Rounds |
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It sounds like the disconnecter is not grabbing the hammer. Pull the two hammer spring ends that should be setting
on top of the trigger legs ( they are the trigger spring) up and set them behind the flats on the hammer and tie them up there with a twisty or tape. ( so they don't slip and poke a hole in you) next push the disconnecter back and make sure it returns with it's spring. next grab the trigger and rotate it back and forth and make sure it moves free and smooth. Then get back to us. |
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With the top cover off, cycle the bolt back to and over the disconnecter with the trigger pulled. move the bolt back
and forth and see how much the hammer goes down from the disconnecter hook. the bolt should push the hammer down off the hook about 1/16"th or more. I don't know what is spec but most I have paid attention to have at least that. Then remove the carrier spring and leave the bolt carrier forward. Hold the trigger back and cock the hammer into the disconnecter. When you release the trigger how much of the hammer flat do the trigger hooks grab right as the disconnecter lets go? Most guns have 3/16" or so. If you do then I need some photos posted of the trigger group in it's aforementioned positions. Also look under and around the trigger to make sure it is not hanging up on any of the receiver sheet metal. If it is file the offending area a bit off the receiver. The last thing I need to ask is if you pull your bolt carrier to the rear with just the cover off does it try to hang up and come out of the receiver a bit? (like you were going to pull the carrier out of the receiver? or do you already have a buffer in it? |
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Take a look at this: http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/aktrigger/pageaktrigger.htm
The trouble (well, one of the troubles..) with the Tapco and other molded FCGs is that they have mold lines running down the working centerline of the parts. Even if the disconnector functions fine when the parts are new, once the mold lines wear off there is a dimensional change that can take a FCG with marginal disconnector engagement into the realm of un-reliability. These lines usually wear off within 100-200 rounds (varies, based on lubrication etc), and that's when the malfunctions can suddenly appear out of nowhere. Sounds like that's what you're dealing with at this point. Make some careful mods as per the article, and then test fire one round at a time VERIFYING that you get solid disconnector engagement no matter how you pull / ride / tickle the trigger. Hope that helps |
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It's an excellent study, for sure; scholarly, even. The only thing I would add is the info on the nature of the mold line problem (detailed above), which the author may have overlooked due to the fact that he machines / polishes off those lines as a matter of course.
Rather than make it a sticky, it would be best to contact Arizona Response Systems and get their permission to reproduce the content here on AR15.com. We don't need to abuse their bandwidth, if it can be avoided. I doubt that the author would deny permission, so long as appropriate credit was given. -L |
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