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Posted: 3/10/2007 2:00:17 PM EDT
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I would say at about 90 - 95%. 1 30 rd mag and a 5 rd mag. It doesn't look to be fired but maybe just handled a bit. $325.00 Thoughts? The first thing I want to do is get rid of that thumb hole stock. Are there any after market stocks and US parts kits for compliance available? |
$325  Go buy some lottery tickets.  This thread should answer most of your questions.  ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=76&t=54853 |
Great score!!! Here is mine which should give you some ideas on what you can do. Mine is very "Un-traditional" but there are many options available for customization of the SLR-95's.  As far as US compliant parts, here is a good place to start: K-Var USA |
OK I want the Iron wood stock set! That looks great in that thread! Are you saying $325 was a fair price? I honestly did not know.... |
Given the price range milled rifles are currently selling for, you stole it. |
+1 you SOB.  J/K  kind of. I got mine for $553 OTD. Good score. Just shot mine for the first time today too. Sweeeet shooter. You'll love it. 
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whoa - I didn't even think that was possible to put a folder on it. Can you tell me a bit about that stock? I have got a lot to learn about teh AK. Thanks for all the help |
I used the Ace Ltd. side folding stock with their Internal Receiver Block. It is somewhat of a permanent mod to your receiver, but can be reversed if you have a good AK smith that can weld the tang back on for you. I bought mine used from Krebs Customs, and it had a lower tang on it, so I basically had to cut the lower tang off, and then file it down even with the receiver.(Yours probably doesnt have a lower tang) Then I cut down the upper tang, you must leave enough of it on the receiver to shape it into a "tab" that fits into a notch that is on the receiver block. Here is a tutorial that I used from AKForums that showed me how to do it: "HOW TO" Install an Ace Ltd. Internal receiver block |
FINALLY I got a decent deal on something. Doesn't really matter though. It will be my wife's to auction off one day so I hope she gets a few bucks for it and somebody else can enjoy it. I'll never sell it. Are you going to keep the thumb hole set up or go with something else? I really like the looks of that ace stock but I hate to cut that tang too. I guess I better start with the correct number of US parts and go from there. Does anybody know how the Fh is attached? I see the pins but from there I'm not too sure if it's threaded or not. Thanks for the help Men! |
I'm going to change it out to a normal stock and pistol grip sooner or later. Luckily it looks like mine already has the slot cut in the receiver so I don't have to do any cutting on it. That was the deciding factor, I don't want to risk fubaring my precious milled baby Can anyone validate what the previous poster was talking about in regards to not needing compliance parts? All I know is mine is an actual "made in Bulgaria" SLR and I was under the impression I'd need to install some parts since I'd be using imported stocks. |
| It already would have the upper tang. So you could just get Ironwood to do you a single upper tang stock. Simple. No "tanging" involved. There is a good deal of wood still sticks up in that receiver and one tang will be plenty solid. Double tangs would be nice but I am fairly convinced its far from nessicary. But since yours is a 95 its very likely got a slot for a lower so it should not be all that difficult to do. |
I've considered that route, but I'd like to stick to a polymer stock to match the foregrips. At this point I don't really feel like changing out the whole set. |
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pol_pot_47 If your SLR95 is factory original (thumbhole stock ) it is 100% made in Bulgaria. There are NO U. S. Parts in it. THE LAW REQUIRING US PARTS IS STILL IN FORCE This has Nothing to do with the Expired Assault Weapon Ban !!!! READ THE FOLLOWING! www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/faq2.htm#o8 a257.g.akamaitech.net/7/257/2422/05dec20031700/edocket.access.gpo.gov/cfr_2003/aprqtr/pdf/27cfr478.39.pdf Here is the list of parts: (c) For purposes of this section, the term imported parts are: (1) Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings or stampings (2) Barrels (3) Barrel extensions (4) Mounting blocks (trunions) (5) Muzzle attachments (6) Bolts (7) Bolt carriers (8) Operating rods (9) Gas pistons (10) Trigger housings (11) Triggers (12) Hammers (13) Sears (14) Disconnectors (15) Buttstocks (16) Pistol grips (17) Forearms, handguards (18) Magazine bodies (19) Followers (20) Floorplates [T.D. ATF–346, 58 FR 40589, July 29, 1993] Most people replace all the stock parts with US made stuff. (3 parts ) Then the trigger ,hammer, and disconnector (3 parts) |
cphilip YOU ARE DEAD WRONG!!! STOP POSTING BAD INFO!  AND APPARENTLY YOU CAN'T READ EITHER  The Links I posted are from the ATF HAVE SOMEONE READ THEM TO YOU |
This is correct information. I have an SLR95MB and it is compliant as it was bought in the thumbhole config. If you go changing the compliant parts (ie thumbhole) to US parts....You had better follow the information above and be 922r compliant. DK |
That's what I thought. I'm familiar with the 922r rules (building kits and such) but was just curious since someone else said otherwise, and hell if it's accurate and means I don't have to spend more money on parts, why not ask? Perhaps it would just be easier to put an Ironwood set on there just to get more compliance parts. Will have to see... |
To put a regular stock on that rifle then it has to become US compliant. His rifle is not compliant most likely. Did yours come with a thumbhole stock? Are you the original owner of the rifle since it was imported in the year you say, 1993? If so what are you basing your knowledge on that your rifle does have a US piston and FCG in it? If it was converted to pistol grip configuration by Arsenal then it would most likely have marked US compliance parts in it or you would be able to tell in some method. Is the gas piston chromed? Are the FCG parts cast metal or milled? FSE had cast metal FCGs that may not have been marked and later milled parts marked FSE. A cast FCG would be a US part more than likely as I have never seen a cast imported one. FSE, Century, Hesse and Gordon Tech made early cast FCGs. In 1993 there were not many if any companies making compliance parts. Some of the earliest were FSE. SoupBowl Enterprises sold conversion sets back in 1997 with US made furniture and FSE FCGs. Soupbowls ATF letters from 1997.................. MAK-90s were imported with a thumhole stock between 1989 and 1994(?) and they were imported in that configuration during that time period in that configuration without the use of any compliance parts (other than some that were fitted with US wood stocks like the ones supplied by Boyds). I believe the manufacturing by Arsenal of NV of US compliance parts is a relatively recent occurrence. |
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You could be right Mak. Your thinking that someone has been in there and done it before me... that had never dawned on me! I think you hit the nail on the head with the original owner question! No it was not converted by Arsenal. It appears Ironwood stuff to me. And it came in through DCI in Virginia but not converted then either, still would have been butthole stock. I think two owners before me. One briefly. Yes the piston is Chromed IIRC. (going from memory). Its certainly not same finish as the Romanian one I have here. But then again that Romy is not that much different than the Tapco I just got. But.. I must say they don't appear to have disturbed anything so as you can tell. Normaly I can tell if something has been removed and replaced. Yes it was original Hole stock and I still have that stock and stuff. However.... its always possible that someone has already been into this thing. I am not the original owner. But it never crossed my mind it had been converted. Nice work if so. And since his is new in a box looking it might not be. I would have to get back in there with a dental tool to check exactly the answers to some of your questions. It all did appear US parts. Some marked. Which lends credence to your theory that it was done much later. But will do that again to be certain. I believe this one came in around 94 or so. Another confounding feature is a replaced FS which is possibly USA but has bayonett lug and pin.... then threaded barrel which was done later I was told. Then a USA stamped 45 degree brake on that. I know I stopped looking at 5 parts. But I think you are on to something there... |
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See. Like others stated, you should not be telling him his rifle has the compliance parts installed even if yours does as you say you are the third owner. A milled rifle without muzzle device would only need 4 compliance parts to be legal and if yours has the piston changed out and an Ironwood Designs, Soupbowl Entreprises, or the wood set that I believe was sold as an FSE compliance set years ago it would be compliant without a US FCG. I really doubt yours has a US FCG unless someone switched it out at a later date as it wouldn't need one to be compliant with 4 other parts if the muzzle has not been threaded or threaded and using a US slant brake or a pinned or welded muzzle device. 5 parts with the threaded barrel, the 5th being the muzzle device. |
I'm not aware of many US pistons being chromed. Chromed usually points to the parts being an import. US pistons are usually stainless except for some of the recent ones done by members of gun boards which are custom runs and will not appear to be the design used in foreign AKs. A piston in a Century conversion with a pistol grip added will most likely be a US part. One on a US build from a Romanian kit on a US receiver may or may not have been changed out. US pistons are usually designed different than the ones that are imported also and that can be a giveaway as to whether it is a compliance part. 
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I am not certain its chrome or if its just nicely polished SS. Can't get it out and look at the moment to tell you for certain. Have look again. Yea your right Mak. My bad. I assumed what I had here was normal. Now I am not at all certain its even close to normaly anymore. Thats what I get for assuming. Still... he should take a look inside. He might be as suprised as I am. None of them are exactly new imports I would think. And who knows what some importers did and some didn't. This particular one is long gone out of business. So I cannot ask. Just going to have to go back through there and re-examine it all again so I am sure how many are there. Can't claim ignorance any longer!  I am pretty sure that the piston is and at least three other parts in there (maybe four) were US though. Then I added the US compliance Brake to be certain. But entirely not certain when and where the other stuff was installed. Or by whom. Added on edit (because the picture just loaded):It has the same number of reliefs and all as the Tapco in your picture Mak. Shinneyer (is that even a word?) but could be some bored fools polishing exercise. Thats not unusual. |
Some people, like Mak did, take the time to get to the bottom of a misunderstanding and straighten it out. And then there are some people (like you) that spend that same amount of time (if not more time) writing BBS codes and clicking on smilies and sprinkling it with a bit of insults and name calling and accomplish little in the way of being helpful. Thanks for being such a positive member in that respect *sarcasm*. Ya catch more good flies with honey or ya catch even more nasty blow flies with a dead skunk kid. Have a good one! |
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Hate you guys had to argue on my behalf but since we're on the subject and I'm obviously at the right place for the best info can you guys dumb it down for me. I have decided on a set of wood stocks. I saw some iron wood stocks in another thread that look great. so if i swap the plastic out for 3 new US made stock parts. If I add a US made buttstock, pistol grip and US made upper/lower handguard parts set what other parts are the easiest to make my rifle compliant? This is my thought, correct me where wrong, 1 - US made flash hider 3 - US made stock parts 1 - hammer 1 - trigger 1 - disconnecter 1 - gas piston (is that an easy part to swap?) finally - I removed the thumbhole for cleaning purposes and I noticed it does have the channel for the lower tang. Thanks for all the assistance.... |
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The first gas piston at the top of the picture is an Arsenal piston. They are very close to the appearance of the Chinese but marked Arsenal Inc NV Match grade. The profile appears very close to original import type pistons. I believe stainless.  The second in the picture is an early TAPCO version which was unmarked but they now have TAPCO USA marked on them. TAPCO pistons have an extra groove in the piston. The Chinese and Russian Saiga pistons appear to be a dull brushed chrome. The Saiga pistons are easily identified. You can see in the picture that all the US pistons except the Arsenal have a definite change in machining from the piston rod to the piston head. All the foreign pistons and the Arsenal have a gradual change to the piston head but even the Arsenal does not match the gradual machining of the foreign pistons. Red Star Arms piston.  The only US chromed piston I have found from Krebs for a krink.  |
| Dam good picture round up Mak. Very useful. Unfortunately I am going from weeks old memory. Looks like your version of the early Tapco, shiney but no graphics that I recall. If the wife was not in there asleep I would grab that thing right now... but then if I was to wake her up getting a gun down off the wall... all hell would break lose. Plus I had a double dose of Sudafed and don't need to be handling guns right now. I'll take a look tomorrow. And maybe snap a few picts while I am in there. |
For a milled rifle you need 4 US parts/ 5 if the barrel is threaded to accept a muzzle device. The Ironwood stockset gives you 3 parts, you could probably just install one FCG part and be good to go but a double hook TAPCO G2 FCG only cost $30.00 to $35.00 and you could run into problems when changing out just one part on the FCG instead of a complete set. With an Ironwood stockset this would give you 6 compliance parts and you have more than enough. You can send your bolt carrier off to have the piston replaced if you don't trust yourself to do it. You have to find the gas piston retaining pin and drill it out. Unscrew the gas piston, screw the new one on and then back it off some so it will wobble. Drill the new piston with a drill press and install the new retaining pin or a section of steel rod or a cut nail. On an anvil surface like on a vise you then peen the retaining pin flush. If you have a threaded barrel or you thread it for a muzzle device you then need an additional US part for the 5th part. A US slant brake or muzzle nut would be correct for the rifle and is available for about $10.00. If you use a foreign one it is alright if it is permanently attached such as welding or hi-temp silver solder but that kind of defeats the purpose of having a threaded barrel so just use a US part for the muzzle. You may also need to install a retainer in the FSB if you don't have one already. Retaining pin and spring. FSB may need to be drilled for these parts. |
THANK you for taking the time to provide that Mak! I hate to do this but I just have a couple follow on questions and I'll be done. You mentioned milled receiver - is it a different part count for a stamped receiver? Why would somebody choose to use a single hook over a double hook? Finally - I am finding a lot of parts on tapco, Kvar etc but no differentiation between FCG parts for a milled vs stamped or chunese vs Bulgarian etc. Are 7.62 fcg parts all the same? Thanks again |
The milled receiver is made from a solid piece of steel and does not have a separate trunnion riveted into it like a stamped receivered rifle. Therefore, it has one less countable part so the milled rifle needs one less compliance part added. Some receivers are cut for a double hook trigger. Milled rifles for the most part, Chinese stamped receivers and US made Global Trades/Armory USA receivers will take the double hook with no modifications. In these I use the double hook. In a Romanian SAR type rifle the receiver is not cut to accept a double hook trigger so I just install the single hook. Otherwise, I myself don't notice any difference in the function of the different triggers. Some people say the takeup is smoother on a double hook but there would be more friction with the bearing surface of two hooks on the trigger versus one. I always use the guide on linx310's site to polish the fire control groups I use anyway to improve the feel and reduce the trigger pull. This picture of my Romanian SAR-1 shows the cutout for a single trigger. At the back of the trigger you can see the casting lines from when it was made.  A TAPCO FCG is made of cast metal, where all the imported ones I've seen appear to be milled. Bulgarian AK-74 triggers I haven't been able to figure out. The TAPCO has always seemed to be a good FCG to me for the price. I was able to get most of them from $19.00 to $30.00. You can pay more for a milled Red Star Arms adjustable FCG ($75.00 to $85.00 + shipping) but do you really need one in a 7.62x39 WASR? Spending 1/4 the price of a rifle for a match grade trigger that isn't going to noticeably improve the accuracy of a 7.62x39 rifle just doesn't make sense, the added cash could have been better put to use buying a high quality rifle. I have one but have never even used or installed it. K-VAR/Arsenal of NV was making high dollar milled fire control groups and I have one in a rifle I bought from them. It is about as bad as a Century US compliance set. Gritty without a polish and some people have reported that they have trigger slap. K-VAR has apparently switched to something called "Metal Injection Molded". To me that sounds like a fancy name for cast. It is apparently stronger but is it worth the cost? Add their $11.00 cost of shipping and you are paying about $50.00 for the FCG.
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