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Posted: 6/25/2006 2:05:34 PM EDT
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Now I just need to refinish the stocks to look like Kinead's PSL and Vector...mmmm nice. Real Romanian Cigur built PSL with matching #'s and matching magazine. Original sling. Purchased with very few rnds fired...hammer still had finish on it. What I'd like to know is if it was an original military PSL converted for export. It has markings ground off on the right side of the gun directly below the bolt handle and has the bayo lug ground off. It's a 1998 dated rifle. Any info on to whether or not this might have been a military PSL and not just one built for export. Sorry for the large pics...    Shoots like a dream with Czech silvertip. |
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Try here for some good info. www.dragunov.net/romanian_psl.html |
Dude! If you take high res pics, do it outdoors and focus the camera!  Geez! We wanna see it too!The info on the reciever bottom will tell you if it's a USA build or military Romy as on the Drag site mentioned above. Have fun with it! They're great rifles. I have a TG built one that gets sub 2" groups of ten shots at 100yds with Czech silvertip. If your scope is erractic, are the recticles steady? When you turn the knob on the posts does it move a tiny bit and steady out? Or is there slop in it so it can shake during a shot? If sloppy, you'll have to remove the knobs to get to the screws that hold the post to the scope tube. You'll need good jeweler's screw drivers for that. |
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Sorry about the pics...girlfriends shitty camera. As for the reticle...it does move a tiny bit after adjusting the knobs. Is it just a matter of tightening small screws or is something else involved? I have a small set of screw drivers. According to dragunov.net it's not military since it don't have the marks in front of the mag well. It has something ground off on both sides of the receiver. I guess it's one of those "how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop" kind of questions...you just never know... 
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I had a turret on my MN sniper replica's PU scope come loose. Similar construction to a PSOP. You remove the two screws atop the turret completely. Then you can turn the turret knob to unscrew it from the turret. It may be staked or have a jam screw installed! Take care of that before turning it. Unscrewing it will rotate the recitule to it's stop and then the knob will turn off. There are disks and washers under there. Take notes on how they're stacked! Under those once lifted off, there's two screws that hold the turret to the scope tube. On mine, those came loose and the recticule would jump around after a shot. I snugged them and applied a bit of Loctite AfterLoc. Then put the washers back on and then screw the knob back on and rotate it so the recticule is back to the center of the viewing area so it can be re-zero'd. You counted the turns required to take it to it's stop and then completely off, right? (OK. I I didn't at first and it took me a second try to get it right.) Then get the screw holes lined up and reinstall the two screws atop the knob that hold the dials to their zero adjustment. Put the jam screw back in the center or apply a bit of Loctite AfterLoc if it was staked. Do NOT put Loctite on the two screws that you loosen to set the dials after you zero it. You'll need to work those later and they never come loose due to the pressure washers under them. That's as best as I can describe it. Hope it helps. That was a real bugger for me when that turret came loose and the recticule started moving. I had just nailed the zero-ing of the scope to the gun! I enjoyed a few sub 2" groups and then the dang thing loosened. Just took 15 minutes to fix back in the shop though. |
Very descriptive. Thanks once again Sidecarnutz! I'll check into this if I have time before I leave for Kentucky. If not I'll IM you once I get back if I hav e any problems. Thanks again! |
Didn't work...I'll try again later when I have a little more time... |
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