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5/28/2005 4:54:49 AM EDT
I know that this subject has been covered alot, but my question dosn't seem to have been covered, and I wanted to run it by you experts here...The slant brake on my rifle appears to be removeable, so I decided to try to get it off with a pair of vicegrips. What I did was take an old pair of sneakers and tore them apart and used a piece of hard rubber for cushioning between the brake and the serrations on the vicegrips. The brake didn't budge even tried clockwise and counter-clockwise...couldn't get any satisfaction. Then I decided to send off an e-mail to the manufacturer..or importer..Century arms. This was their response:


Some of the rifles arrived with a smaller muzzle diameter, and were equipped with a US made substitute muzzle break. These should have a small mark on the bottom to distinguish them and use a .5 x 20 right hand thread. The others use the original LH thread pattern. The part can be unscrewed once the locking pin is removed.


After this I earnestly tried to remove the brake with the same technique previously described. I don't want to damage the thing, I just want to get to the threads to make sure they are clean. And to know what I've got in case I want to install something else sometime. No luck... Would some kind of penetrating oil work better?
Thanks for any advice..If I can't remove it without damaging it., I guess I'll just leave it for now, I just don't want excessive use to fuse the brake to the barrel..  
5/28/2005 5:19:30 AM EDT
[#1]
recent WASR-10 w/ slant brake had this problem... Do you have WASR-10 GP??
5/28/2005 5:33:18 AM EDT
[#2]
Yeah..it's the WASR 10 GP.
5/28/2005 5:48:24 AM EDT
[#3]
The only way I could get mine off was with a dremel, cutting it to about the threads to loosen it, then it screwed right off. Mine wouldn't budge either until that. But it does ruin the break.
5/28/2005 5:56:39 AM EDT
[#4]
Had the same problem here.
But I found a contact at Global (Jimmy) who italked to and they are going to be getting some fo these slant brakes in and he said they would be able to thread it to the 1/2-20 RH for me.
I was told to email him back around the first week or so of June to see what the schedule looked like for these to be in.
I ended up destroying mine to get it off. The threads were fine underneath though.
5/28/2005 6:03:07 AM EDT
[#5]
interesting..it would seem I have an excellent thread protector on there until a readily accessible replacement reached the market...I wonder how many rounds I can bumpfire before the slant-brake welds itself to the barrel, Or am I worrying about nothing...Thanks for the advice guys.
5/28/2005 9:37:58 AM EDT
[#6]
UPDATE!! :.................I'm so pleased with myself, I can't describe it. I got the thing off without damaging it!!!
Here's how I did it. I took a small block of pine...about three inches long by about 1-1/2" wide and about 1" deep. Drilled a 5/8" hole in it and cut right through the hole bisecting the wood lengthwise. This made two semi-circle wooden pieces that I could use as a cushion in my vice. While holding the brake in the vice, and holding the retension pin back with the flat part from the cleaning kit, it twisted right out with minimal effort! I now can clean off the rusted threads, and hopefully if I clean the brake after I fire the gun it won't get frozen on there again! I hope posting this will help others do the same. It does screw right off counterclockwise, just like any other US threads. Thanks alot for all the advice!
5/28/2005 9:39:09 AM EDT
[#7]
Good to hear!
5/28/2005 9:40:42 AM EDT
[#8]
definitely throw some good oil or anti sieze on those threads when you reinstall.
5/28/2005 9:59:07 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks for the info, just wondering, what markings do you have on the break?  Does it have a "C" stamped in near the bottem of the break?

I just want to know that if my WASR GP break is 14mm or .5X20

thanks in advance
5/29/2005 3:14:57 AM EDT
[#10]
yep, small "C" stamped on the bottom...BTW in-case you didn't know, on the pistol grip on my WASR, I couldn't see any US markings...this puzzled me because it is supposed to be made in US and work as a compliance part..I took it off and shined a flashlight down inside of it..on the very bottom near the bolt hole a small"C" is there...sortof a wierd place to put it, but it's there if you ever have to prove it..See ya!
5/29/2005 4:15:26 PM EDT
[#11]
Thanks for the reply!

I guess I also have one of those US made 1/2 X 20 RHT brakes....no cheap fun imported 14mm brakes for mehow
thank for the reply again....
5/29/2005 4:38:04 PM EDT
[#12]
no, I didn't use anything other than what went on the threads while I cleaned the gun...it really helps if you have three hands....one to hold the retaining pin back while you carefully twist with two hands. Good-Luck, and I hope it works for you, let me know!
5/31/2005 6:35:37 PM EDT
[#13]
I tried to take off my brake, I couldn't get it to even move a bit!  It just goes round and round no matter how mouch force i put on the vice.

All the finish has came off of my brake, its silver now h
So, do you guys had any luck finding replacement 1/2 X 20 brakes?
6/1/2005 2:45:55 AM EDT
[#14]
I'm sorry to hear that....I guess I just got lucky...I do know that I had to tighten the vice quite a but....Bummer.
6/1/2005 3:54:09 PM EDT
[#15]
Its not that bad, just a muzzle brake, some sandpaper and some flat black spay paint good as new hope
Oh well, I guess you are the lucky one that got your brake off without breaking it.

Thanks a lot for the info and replies!!
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