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1/5/2004 4:11:07 AM EDT
Alrighty guys, I've decided that I would like to make my SAR-1 into an AKM with the slant cut muzzle compensator and the fine wood stocks, etc. Anywho, to install the comp once I get it, are there any special procedures that will need to be done? I know that it seems many of them are threaded and of course, my SAR-1 does not have a threaded muzzle, will I have to remove the threads and perhaps mill it out on a lathe to fit over the barrel, or are there any other easier routes to take?
1/5/2004 4:41:30 AM EDT
[#1]
the easiest method of attachment is to bore out the compensator and press fit it on the bbl.

if you go oversize on the boring, you can silver solder the comp in place.

the correct method is to go buy the 14mm x 1mm left hand die and guide arbor, thread the muzzle and weld or silver solder the comp in place.

for authenticity, be sure and install the compensator catch plunger, plunger spring and retainer pin in the front sight base.
1/5/2004 4:43:16 AM EDT
[#2]
Solution 1:  Thread barrel to specs, screw on the break and weld it in place.

Solution 2: Drill out the break a little, enough so that (not too loose) you can  tap it in (lightly).  Weld it to the barrel.

Don't forget to place the slant in the correct position (gun barrel facing away from you the slant should be turned slightly to the right).



edited:  Damm Campy, beat me to it.
1/5/2004 5:36:49 AM EDT
[#3]
one thing that may be of interest to you. the slant brake is in its correct allignment should be offset to the right. most of the ones you see are straight because it looks better. i just threaded a barrel and welded one it looks good so i would do it that way.
1/5/2004 6:12:30 AM EDT
[#4]
Why does the slant brake need to be turned to the right?
1/5/2004 6:18:43 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Why does the slant brake need to be turned to the right?



It keeps the muzzle blast away from your face.  In other words the force is being directed away from you. Works best when in full-auto.


1/5/2004 8:14:41 AM EDT
[#6]
it compensates for the tourque encountered in fully automatic fire.  
1/5/2004 8:34:10 AM EDT
[#7]
I pressed on my slant brake like others have mentioned. Cleaned out the threads, drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom for a set screw. Dimpled the barrel slightly where the set screw would rest. Filed the tip of the set screw to a slight point give it more bite on the barrel. I also re-created the brake pin with material I had in the shop. A small spring I had laying around enabled the pin to be depressed like the original. This brake never came loose with this installation method.


1/5/2004 10:46:07 AM EDT
[#8]
I was under the assumption that the angle of the slant compensator was to assist in reducing muzzle climb.  I remember reading or watching somewhere that in full and semi-auto the AK had a tendency to jump up and to the right, and by having the slant compensator turned the way it is, some of the escaping gas pushes down on the extended surface area of the compensator, thereby reducing muzzle climb a little bit.  Makes sense, gun jumps up and to the right and gas presses down and to the left.

Obviously, the reduction is small, but its engineering makes sense.  I think I learned that on the History Channel....but I don't remember exactly.
1/5/2004 11:18:53 AM EDT
[#9]
When firing full auto on the AK (especially at  night) the slant break keeps the fire blast on the right side of the rifle allowing for better visablity when looking through the iron sights.

And yes, it also reduces the amount of hop when firing.    
1/5/2004 5:00:55 PM EDT
[#10]
If you can hold out till September, and congress doesn't cook up some new laws, you can thread it and forget about welding and such.
1/5/2004 5:12:25 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
I was under the assumption that the angle of the slant compensator was to assist in reducing muzzle climb.



You are 100% correct.
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