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Posted: 3/26/2003 5:05:17 PM EDT
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with one foot on the stock and the other foot on the barrel of my SAR 2 yanking like hell with a pair of pliers trying to get the fucking trigger pin out. Apparently when I put threadlock on my RSA trigger to lock in the settings, some ran into the trigger pin hole and set up gumming up the works. I finally did get the mother out and sure enough there is threadlock residue on the pin and in the trigger where it should not be. It seems to have migrated all around the trigger. That would explain why it was doubling the first shot and then not resetting after.  Taking it to work tonight to try and clean it up. |
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Thermao, Loc-tite is some pretty serious stuff. I've had bolts secured with it that could not removed with a 1 inch impact. Nothing short of oxy/acet could budge them. Maynard, Can you let us know how the solvent works? |
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My grandpa used to bring home this green epoxy stuff from McDonnell Douglas. He'd use it to re-glue the shafts of golf clubs that him and my dad would cut down for me when I was little. Those clubs are still stronger than a normal steel shaft in my opinion. I've gone through too many True Temper shafts from pounding golf balls with a 90+ mph swing. PGA pros get reshafted every other month I think. Anyway, I'm sure it's fine, but I still don't like the idea of using something like that for a trigger. I don't know how this works exactly, so maybe if I got a chance to take one apart and understand how they work I'd have a greater appreciation for it. The thing is, I look at my Ruger 10/22 trigger, my AR-15 trigger, and those aren't loc-tited into place. My stock Ruger 10/22 trigger is probably smoother than most custom trigger groups out there. Why couldn't they make the trigger without the need for loc-tite? It's not something that's easily repairable. I'd prefer mechanical fastening if at all possible. |
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the easiest way to clean it is to polish it off with a fine wire wheel.. Loctite is pretty resistant to solvents... Think about it...It is made to be.. ...duh.... I forgot to mention.. to avoid the "drip" refrigerate your loc-tite....it increases the viscosity and allows you to see just how much your actually putting on during application better.... |
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All went well. I was able to soak the trigger in laquer thinner for a couple of hours and then was able to pry the disconnector out of the trigger housing. I polished the hell out of all the surfaces with a rubber dremel wheel. I should have it back together today and will test it either today or tommorow. The original reason for the loc-tite was that I was satisfied with the position of the 4 set screws in the RSA trigger group and didn't want them to loosen from their positions. When applying it though it poured quite a bit more than I had planned.  I'll post on the results after I get it back together. |
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My stock Ruger 10/22 trigger is probably smoother than most custom trigger groups out there. you might want to try redstararm's 10-22 fire control group. it's perfect for target rifles and bench rest competition guns. i appreciate a competition trigger. after owning anschutz match rifles, i'm convinced that there is nothing on the market that equals rsa's designs. Why couldn't they make the trigger without the need for loc-tite? the could and we actually did start down that road. but that defeats the whole idea to end up with an adjustable trigger while keeping it simple and as inexspensive as possible. like other match triggers, lock nuts can be applied, with longer set screws, but access is limited and many folks do not own the specialized wrenches necessary to perform the adjustments. and even with the use of locking nuts, a threadlocking adheasive is recommended for the high vibration/impact environment. It's not something that's easily repairable. i'm not sure i'm following you, but a re-application of threadlocking agent is easily applied. and...i defy anyone to undo loctite 704 without a torch! as the fellow up above said, you will play hell getting that stuff undone. I'd prefer mechanical fastening if at all possible. as i said, most mechanical threads on a rifle are glued for security, anyway. scope mounts...sling swivel studs...etc.. besides, like i did for a friend, there is always staking...you know, the same mechanical locking method that is utilized on the m16's gas key. while tuning a friend's rsa trigger group i applied the 2-part loctite 704 (spray cure and agent) this 'nervous nelly' was still concerned that his $299 ak wasn't gonna be ready when that mythical shit hit the fantasy fan...so i simply pulled his now adjusted parts and took a sharp punch and hammer to them. although nervous nell' now sleeps better, what he failed to have the comprehension to understand was that the loctite wouldn't have failed in his lifetime. i work in the aerospace industry...and you would be amazed at the steel, titanium, aluminum and superalloys we bond together and the applications that stuff goes on. |
You would also be surprised to know that the "skin" on the patriot missles is held on with 2 sided 3M tape!...no shit we sell it to them! |
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I have a few thousand rounds fired by my RSA in the SAR2 and it has not moved noticably without any thread lock stuff. And there are several choices of Locktite with varied degrees of permanent bond available. Mao- your stock Ruger 10/22 trigger is your best trigger? Now I will finally break down and call you a freak :) |
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RS39: I am a freak. I guess the trigger on my S&W Model 627 Performance Center revolver is better, but I was refering to my long guns. My Browning Gold is the next best, and I don't know what my SAR-2 will be like after I test its Gordon Tech trigger. Campy + RotDorn: I kind of feel dumb right now. You're right about glue in the aerospace industry. Everything is practically glued together. I just wish I had the time to play around with this stuff more. Thanks for the info |
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