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Anyone running a FRT? Let’s discuss. (Page 2 of 4)
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Darn - I have my DNT AK kit and haven't tried it yet - I was hoping that others would have figured it out and given me an easier go at it.  What are you using as a spacer? Washers? I guess I won't try it on my PSA 104 SBR, I still might Try it on a Romy kit build - That has got to be close to standard AK specs for a base attempt. I could've swore that I read they (or one of the designers of one of the super safeties) based their design off of a PSA AK, so I figured I'd try it in that one first; plus I don't care if I grind and mod parts in it as much as one of my imports. Yeah, I found a washer that was the perfect thickness and cut an eccentric hole in it. It seemed to make it more reliable during hand-cycling but during actual use at the range it got worse. |
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The problem I had was similar. I ended up having to modify the trigger profile where the cam resets and holds it. I lightly polished a few other areas on the cam and it didn’t help. The trigger profile and modified broken trip bar got it running. I got the Mars running too with a longer trip wire. I apologize for not updating this post. I am jumping around a few other sites with several posts between them and I do get lost at times. There is another thread here in the build forum, a thread on Weapons Guild and a few more on AK Forum. I now have a third type from supersafetyshop.com that I’m trying to figure out. Thank God these aren’t drop in, as I would need to get a second job or two to finance feeding them. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: The problem I had was similar. I ended up having to modify the trigger profile where the cam resets and holds it. I lightly polished a few other areas on the cam and it didn’t help. The trigger profile and modified broken trip bar got it running. I got the Mars running too with a longer trip wire. I apologize for not updating this post. I am jumping around a few other sites with several posts between them and I do get lost at times. There is another thread here in the build forum, a thread on Weapons Guild and a few more on AK Forum. I now have a third type from supersafetyshop.com that I’m trying to figure out. Thank God these aren’t drop in, as I would need to get a second job or two to finance feeding them. When you say trigger profile - Do you mean you better matched it to the cam surface shape or? I didn't realize the Supersafetyshop.com version was different than the DNT version, Curious for when I work on mine. I wished I didn't commit to reflooring my daughters house - I need time for super safety research
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Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Just note, s3igu2 released an AK DIAS and an AK FRT. The one pictured in the atf memo is the DIAS, not the super safety. https://i.imgur.com/e8MxDRs.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RmHsd6D.jpg That's exactly the kind of thing that's going to get the FRT's banned, too. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: When you say trigger profile - Do you mean you better matched it to the cam surface shape or? I didn't realize the Supersafetyshop.com version was different than the DNT version, Curious for when I work on mine. I wished I didn't commit to reflooring my daughters house - I need time for super safety research Yeah, instead of rounding off the ass end, I had to lower it also. I’ll try to get a picture of it, as my description skills suck. Harrison Gun Works and DNT are identical…even the packaging. I broke both. The SSS parts won’t interchange, but he sells individual pieces unlike the others. I pieced an AR and AK kit together in separate orders. The AR kit was drop in for the KS47. No mods needed at all. The AK kit might actually only need the trigger profile that the others claim is for theirs. The cam is a little more shallow on the bottom comparatively. I’ll know more once I can play with it. |
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 Top - Standard unmodified Mid - Profile from jig Bottom - Profile that finally worked for me The mid profile makes might work with the SSS parts, but I haven’t messed with them yet. I put another Mars trigger in the RPK this afternoon. I’ll try to get out and see if it works this weekend. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: https://i.postimg.cc/PJxKSL45/IMG-3284.jpg Top - Standard unmodified Mid - Profile from jig Bottom - Profile that finally worked for me The mid profile makes might work with the SSS parts, but I haven’t messed with them yet. I put another Mars trigger in the RPK this afternoon. I’ll try to get out and see if it works this weekend. Great info! Thanks - Is the rubber boot an indication of hard trigger slap? |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Great info! Thanks - Is the rubber boot an indication of hard trigger slap? Yes. I’m borrowing an innovation from the Cobray/RPB series of trigger slappers. There’s no arguing about the trigger getting forcibly reset, LOL! I burned through several triggers to get the profile dialed in. With manufacturing variations, they’re all going to be snowflakes I’m sure. It took a good afternoon of trial and error in the garage to get it figured out. The SSSparts should be a little easier, but I want to set aside an afternoon, just in case. |
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I put an update on the issues I am having in the other thread, but if/when I get it working well I will do that rubber sleeve over the trigger as well. Who knew that Century was just trying to help us all out with their original US made FCG trigger slap issues? These things are defined a lot more problematic than the AR design. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I posted there too. Maybe hit the trigger profile with a file and see if reducing it a little helps with the slap. This may or may not be a consideration (as I have not had time to play with mine and how it actually works) but the cure for bad trigger slap on those century guns was to shape the disconnector like a true semi-auto as that is the origin of slap in that case- I see your disconnector has a tail on it like a Romy G kit had Maybe that might help to cut/grind it to this profile? https://gunguyoh.tripod.com/disconnectors.jpg 
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: This may or may not be a consideration (as I have not had time to play with mine and how it actually works) but the cure for bad trigger slap on those century guns was to shape the disconnector like a true semi-auto as that is the origin of slap in that case- I see your disconnector has a tail on it like a Romy G kit had Maybe that might help to cut/grind it to this profile? https://gunguyoh.tripod.com/disconnectors.jpg https://gunguyoh.tripod.com/disconnectors.jpg The trigger slap from the FRT is from the cam resetting the trigger. The disconnector doesn’t really make a difference. The Mars triggers don’t have a disconnector and the hammer resets the trigger causing some slap. It’s the nature of the beast with these for now. The rubber tubing does mitigate the slap a little bit. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: I read that there is some sort of AK Super Safety/FRT PDF Guide as if it is the Bible on how to do the installs - Does anyone have a copy or a link to this document? I don’t get out much and haven’t heard of this until now. I would like to see it to see what I’ve been doing wrong despite getting them working, lol! |
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Yeah I have modified plenty of US Century triggers to removed the slap, this is a different deal. Basically the forced reset is just making a lot more forceful reset than an AR, and it resets a much further distance. That equals pain basically, or distraction at least. Zero doubt that you are pulling the trigger for each individual shot though! |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: I read that there is some sort of AK Super Safety/FRT PDF Guide as if it is the Bible on how to do the installs - Does anyone have a copy or a link to this document? Nope, would love to see that though. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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I’m not an expert but here’s how I do the installs: 1) Fit the sliding bar to the gun and function test with the bolt. The sliding bar might need thinned to allow it to slide freely. The only things I’ve thinned are the back and/or the height. 2) Fit the cam onto the safety lever while out of the gun. Make sure the cam moves freely on the end of the safety lever. I had a mak90 lever that was too wide at the end and would bind on the cam 3) With the trigger out, fit the cam and safety lever in the gun. Depending on the trunion and rivets, some cam material might need removed to allow the cam to move freely. On the mak90 I also had to remove a very minor amount of material from the cam nub where it interfaces with the sliding bar in order for the cam to fit 4) Modify the trigger radius using the jig. Now comes the part where you get really good at assembly and disassembly. Keep test fitting, function testing, live fire testing, removing radius material from the trigger, etc until the force reset works, the cam rotates enough to allow the bolt group to pass over it without binding up, etc Good luck! |
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Originally Posted By Alaska-Shooter: I’m not an expert but here’s how I do the installs: 1) Fit the sliding bar to the gun and function test with the bolt. The sliding bar might need thinned to allow it to slide freely. The only things I’ve thinned are the back and/or the height. 2) Fit the cam onto the safety lever while out of the gun. Make sure the cam moves freely on the end of the safety lever. I had a mak90 lever that was too wide at the end and would bind on the cam 3) With the trigger out, fit the cam and safety lever in the gun. Depending on the trunion and rivets, some cam material might need removed to allow the cam to move freely. On the mak90 I also had to remove a very minor amount of material from the cam nub where it interfaces with the sliding bar in order for the cam to fit 4) Modify the trigger radius using the jig. Now comes the part where you get really good at assembly and disassembly. Keep test fitting, function testing, live fire testing, removing radius material from the trigger, etc until the force reset works, the cam rotates enough to allow the bolt group to pass over it without binding up, etc Good luck! Thank you for the write up. I appreciate it. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Thank you for the write up. I appreciate it. Originally Posted By cherenkov: Originally Posted By Alaska-Shooter: I’m not an expert but here’s how I do the installs: 1) Fit the sliding bar to the gun and function test with the bolt. The sliding bar might need thinned to allow it to slide freely. The only things I’ve thinned are the back and/or the height. 2) Fit the cam onto the safety lever while out of the gun. Make sure the cam moves freely on the end of the safety lever. I had a mak90 lever that was too wide at the end and would bind on the cam 3) With the trigger out, fit the cam and safety lever in the gun. Depending on the trunion and rivets, some cam material might need removed to allow the cam to move freely. On the mak90 I also had to remove a very minor amount of material from the cam nub where it interfaces with the sliding bar in order for the cam to fit 4) Modify the trigger radius using the jig. Now comes the part where you get really good at assembly and disassembly. Keep test fitting, function testing, live fire testing, removing radius material from the trigger, etc until the force reset works, the cam rotates enough to allow the bolt group to pass over it without binding up, etc Good luck! Thank you for the write up. I appreciate it. Yes, thank you, sir, much appreciated! |
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Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Any update as to whether the MARS FRT survived?  That’s what I’m here for, looking to add one to a MI Alpha build I’m doing with a WASR… I found their website (MARS) interdasting that they’re already out with a Mod 2, which is currently sold out and requires the signing of an NDA in addition to costing twice as much as their Mod 1…🤔 It also appears that the KONO FRT is very similar and was originally priced MUCH higher than the MARS ($500) and is now $300, which is still significantly higher than the MARS product which is currently $170. That MAY be related to (arguably anecdotal) reports of substandard build quality and them failing/breaking. There’s really a fraction of information available for AK FRTs compared to AKs and I’m sure AF not going to venture over to StormFront II/AKA The AK Files to try and figure it out there, HARD pass on that hive of villainy and scum…! 🤣 |
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Originally Posted By MikeWhiskey: That’s what I’m here for, looking to add one to a MI Alpha build I’m doing with a WASR… I found their website (MARS) interdasting that they’re already out with a Mod 2, which is currently sold out and requires the signing of an NDA in addition to costing twice as much as their Mod 1…🤔 It also appears that the KONO FRT is very similar and was originally priced MUCH higher than the MARS ($500) and is now $300, which is still significantly higher than the MARS product which is currently $170. That MAY be related to (arguably anecdotal) reports of substandard build quality and them failing/breaking. There’s really a fraction of information available for AK FRTs compared to AKs and I’m sure AF not going to venture over to StormFront II/AKA The AK Files to try and figure it out there, HARD pass on that hive of villainy and scum…! 🤣 +1 on the files. The FAL Files is the opposite surprisingly. I tried starting this on the AK Forum site, and they were too immature for prime time. If you’re looking for something that you can’t find in a Mars trigger search using the Duck…Go, let me know and I’ll get you the best info I have on the V1 Mars and the Super Safety version. I have two of each in four different types of AKs and, after working through the bugs, they are fun shooters. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: +1 on the files. The FAL Files is the opposite surprisingly. I tried starting this on the AK Forum site, and they were too immature for prime time. If you’re looking for something that you can’t find in a Mars trigger search using the Duck…Go, let me know and I’ll get you the best info I have on the V1 Mars and the Super Safety version. I have two of each in four different types of AKs and, after working through the bugs, they are fun shooters. I have to swing back to the FAL files I was on it every day until they had a huge website problem years back and my account wasn't valid. I would love to see a FAL FRT! |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: I have to swing back to the FAL files I was on it every day until they had a huge website problem years back and my account wasn't valid. I would love to see a FAL FRT! Hell yeah! FAL and M14 would be the shit!! I never lost connectivity at the FAL Files. I did at the AK version and could never get signed up again. My IQ returned to normal as a result, LOL! |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: +1 on the files. The FAL Files is the opposite surprisingly. I tried starting this on the AK Forum site, and they were too immature for prime time. If you’re looking for something that you can’t find in a Mars trigger search using the Duck…Go, let me know and I’ll get you the best info I have on the V1 Mars and the Super Safety version. I have two of each in four different types of AKs and, after working through the bugs, they are fun shooters. Thanks for your response @Dakota_Don, I appreciate it. I'm most curious about the MARS Mod1 at this point honestly. I've had my fair share of AKs and know that every one is different...even if they're exactly the same. If I understand it correctly the MARS is a 3-position: safe, semi, forced reset, correct? I've watched a couple of videos including their installation video and the function test at the end appears to show that. I say that because the video is hardly professional quality and lacks detail, and I say that as someone pretty familiar with working on them. I know they're (MARS) are down on Tapco triggers, which is fine with me but I was hoping they'd work with the ALG AK triggers, but I'll have to see. Trigger slap was never a big deal as long as you're aware of it, and you get used to it when shooting AKs, but I heard it's next level with the FRT...which makes complete sense. I'd likely put them in every AK I have if I can get them to run reliably, including a Saiga pattern Komrad-12 KUSA SBS I have, that'd be a hoot! My first go around with be with the Midwest Industries Alpha Build I'm doing on an excellent example of WASR I recently acquired. |
 Alpha Tactical V2 In PSA AK-104 SBR My Alpha Tactical V2 MARS trigger. It's in a PSA AK104 SBR. Relatively hard to control compared to an AR for an indoor range and easy to walk off target (Why I am doing bursts). |
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Originally Posted By MikeWhiskey: Thanks for your response @Dakota_Don, I appreciate it. I'm most curious about the MARS Mod1 at this point honestly. I've had my fair share of AKs and know that every one is different...even if they're exactly the same. If I understand it correctly the MARS is a 3-position: safe, semi, forced reset, correct? I've watched a couple of videos including their installation video and the function test at the end appears to show that. I say that because the video is hardly professional quality and lacks detail, and I say that as someone pretty familiar with working on them. I know they're (MARS) are down on Tapco triggers, which is fine with me but I was hoping they'd work with the ALG AK triggers, but I'll have to see. Trigger slap was never a big deal as long as you're aware of it, and you get used to it when shooting AKs, but I heard it's next level with the FRT...which makes complete sense. I'd likely put them in every AK I have if I can get them to run reliably, including a Saiga pattern Komrad-12 KUSA SBS I have, that'd be a hoot! My first go around with be with the Midwest Industries Alpha Build I'm doing on an excellent example of WASR I recently acquired. I just have the V1’s. They’re only two position, ghey and fun! I haven’t tried any other triggers besides factory Romanian and Polish. They work great once you get the wire length figured out. I’m planning on trying one in a 74 when I get the free time and motivation. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xk2BU1JqmQMy Alpha Tactical V2 MARS trigger. It's in a PSA AK104 SBR. Relatively hard to control compared to an AR for an indoor range and easy to walk off target (Why I am doing bursts). Nice! I can say that the shorter the barrel, the more jumpy they are. My RPK hardly moves. My 8” AOW is two hands full, as I haven’t tried it without using the foregrip…yet, LOL! The 16” Maadi is better than the 12.5” Hungo-Polock hybrid SBR I have. |
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With the forced reset rate of fire it sounds like a KNS adjustable gas piston may be in order. I’ve used them before in several shorter barrel builds (M85 and M92 IIRC) and they can dial in nicely and significantly mitigate overgassing and excessive recoil… So that’s another $150 or so you need to come up with to get it dialed in, but it makes them much easier to shoot, especially if you’re running a suppressor… |
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I tried integrating a rate reducer in one of my setups and it worked sort of…it reduces the rate to a single shot, LOL! My SBR is setup to function with a can by using a ported set screw in the gas block port. It will run fine without the FRT and a four-piece beer can brake. The brake doesn’t have enough back pressure to function in forced reset, so no dice in forced reset unless it has an actual can. It’s marginally faster than the others with the can. Without it and the ported screw removed, it behaves like the others, whereas, they all seem to have the same rate of fire. They have that standard choppy AK cadence. I don’t know if dialing the gas down would change anything other than ejection. In my experience, the overgassing is more beneficial to the functionality than not. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I tried integrating a rate reducer in one of my setups and it worked sort of…it reduces the rate to a single shot, LOL! My SBR is setup to function with a can by using a ported set screw in the gas block port. It will run fine without the FRT and a four-piece beer can brake. The brake doesn’t have enough back pressure to function in forced reset, so no dice in forced reset unless it has an actual can. It’s marginally faster than the others with the can. Without it and the ported screw removed, it behaves like the others, whereas, they all seem to have the same rate of fire. They have that standard choppy AK cadence. I don’t know if dialing the gas down would change anything other than ejection. In my experience, the overgassing is more beneficial to the functionality than not. Copy that, thanks @Dakota_Don for that additional setup information, I appreciate it! |
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Speaking of MARS, I've been watching their videos on YouTube... They seem like good solid folks, expat Aussies living in Texas, but MAN does it seem like they got WAY ahead of their skis! I've been contemplating holding off on buying a Gen/Mod 2 instead of 1. I'm not sure that's the best idea. Apparently he's tweaking things as he goes along and getting feedback from his customers who are basically beta testing for them. That's not particularly terrible if you're aware of that going in, but if you're not keeping up on their socials that could be a different story. You might buy/install one, test rip a mag or two that does fine, and throw it in your safe thinking it's all fine and dandy like sour candy, until the Russians start parachuting onto your kid's high school football stadium and you go all Wolverine and the heat treat on the hammer was garbage, it's brittle AF, and broke... He'll make a couple a certain way with heat treat, and then change it and or the temper/quench...or not do it at all. They had an issue with their spring supplier sending them out of spec springs, which they didn't realize until customers started having issues. The remedy is apparently to cut a coil off the spring but their whole approach to manufacturing seems VERY ham and egg. Having been involved in a family owned business for over 13 years I know how difficult things can be starting out but they are not doing themselves any favors with these videos. He literally compared the two generations of triggers between a Model T and Cybertruck. The Mod 2 is completely different and a complete trigger mechanism as opposed to the add on parts (cam, trip bar, etc.) of the first generation. The oven he's using to heat treat is the size of a toaster oven. He bags on his CNC saying some of the fixtures are junk. A lot of his banter is him being cheeky but it does not fill a potential customer with the type of confidence needed in a life or death implement. I don't know, maybe he thinks his FRTs are for range toys only and not for serious use. That's fine with some folks but for me that's a monster turn off. He also said he can only make three a day. Three. A. Day. How in Gawd's name do they expect to be viable with that kind of production output. They need to get some serious partners lined up that can handle volume machining. I know several myself and was contemplating reaching out, but I'm extremely hesitant. I'd like to help but I don't think they'd take it well... |
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I think they have a solid design with the V2. Mine is running perfectly now. It's not binding with trigger. I had made a video - but its crap again - I am out of frame and didn't realize it. MARS has been helpful and I think they want happy customers and I think they know the design they want and need to dial it in - Yeah it might be crowdfunding but they are honest about it and offer lots of help and support. My parts were essentially drop in but had to relieve some metal from side folding trunnion and tune the reset piece to a height that met the BCG without binding as their are many variables in tolerances. THis was done by sanding and polishing carefully - it took me a while because I couldn't test fire in my backyard after each hand fitting session. My wife thinks the neighbors would not like it.  I took my AK-104 into the range this week and it ran like the AK-47 full auto demo gun they have in the shop. I let a lot of the range guys around me give it a try. Handles the way you would want, and no trigger slap like on other ones. If you get a V2 my hunch is you should be able to get it working. I'm trying to decide what AK variant to try next - I wanted to do an RPK, but I want to try a 5.45 or 5.56 as 7.62x39 isn't so easy to control  AK-104 Clone with MARS V2 FRT Done. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Do the RPK…mine is very controllable with the addition weight up front. I haven’t shot it from the bipod yet, just offhand. When I get the time, I have a V1 that I want to put in the ‘74. That should also be another great shooter. I might get one and try a Galil or at least fit it to one to see if it might work out. I just have my SAR Galil now as I sold my ARM with Bipod to a friend - with those 55 Rd mags and Bipod, its very RPK like but 5.56 I sold it to him a few years ago - Gee maybe 10 years ago (time flies) as it was just too darn heavy and I was building the SAR which seemed handy in comparison. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: I think they have a solid design with the V2. Mine is running perfectly now. It's not binding with trigger. I had made a video - but its crap again - I am out of frame and didn't realize it. MARS has been helpful and I think they want happy customers and I think they know the design they want and need to dial it in - Yeah it might be crowdfunding but they are honest about it and offer lots of help and support. My parts were essentially drop in but had to relieve some metal from side folding trunnion and tune the reset piece to a height that met the BCG without binding as their are many variables in tolerances. THis was done by sanding and polishing carefully - it took me a while because I couldn't test fire in my backyard after each hand fitting session. My wife thinks the neighbors would not like it. I took my AK-104 into the range this week and it ran like the AK-47 full auto demo gun they have in the shop. I let a lot of the range guys around me give it a try. Handles the way you would want, and no trigger slap like on other ones. If you get a V2 my hunch is you should be able to get it working. I'm trying to decide what AK variant to try next - I wanted to do an RPK, but I want to try a 5.45 or 5.56 as 7.62x39 isn't so easy to control https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUHmIcYrlHYThanks very much for your reply! I'm fully aware this is an AR forum and that AKs are somewhere between second-class/trash can guns/afterthoughts for most folks but I'm NOT one of "those"...but I also won't participate in any discussion on the AK Files AKA StormFront II, regardless of it's a "better" source of information. HARD pass. It's near unpossible to make something drop-in fit in an AK, particularly an internal part, so I get it. MARS certainly seems responsive and helpful, it's just a lot of money to be experimenting with, and not just the cost of the trigger itself but the ammo which isn't super cheap any more and time, which is always in short supply... Bottom line is if you want to make it work, I have no doubt you can with the MARS FRT, it's just a matter of how bad you want it. I'm also having a hard time determining if this is a three-position FRT, similar to the DTT/RBT FRTs for ARs...? I feel like I'm definitely missing something... |
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My MARS V1 trigger came in today and I just spent the last hour and a half or so trying to get it to work in my Bulgarian 106CR. Hammer wouldn't function due to too much material on the 'disconnector' piece, so I dremeled off enough material until the hammer would stay back. After that, the bolt carrier would continually jam up on the very back of the cam, instead of contacting the camming surface that it should be. I think I'm just going to stop fucking with AK FRT's until someone makes a drop-in cassette style FRT. So far these things have just been a waste of time and money; meanwhile all of my AR FRTs run flawlessly. 
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Originally Posted By Willisinnawoods: My MARS V1 trigger came in today and I just spent the last hour and a half or so trying to get it to work in my Bulgarian 106CR. Hammer wouldn't function due to too much material on the 'disconnector' piece, so I dremeled off enough material until the hammer would stay back. After that, the bolt carrier would continually jam up on the very back of the cam, instead of contacting the camming surface that it should be. I think I'm just going to stop fucking with AK FRT's until someone makes a drop-in cassette style FRT. So far these things have just been a waste of time and money; meanwhile all of my AR FRTs run flawlessly. |
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Originally Posted By Willisinnawoods: My MARS V1 trigger came in today and I just spent the last hour and a half or so trying to get it to work in my Bulgarian 106CR. Hammer wouldn't function due to too much material on the 'disconnector' piece, so I dremeled off enough material until the hammer would stay back. After that, the bolt carrier would continually jam up on the very back of the cam, instead of contacting the camming surface that it should be. I think I'm just going to stop fucking with AK FRT's until someone makes a drop-in cassette style FRT. So far these things have just been a waste of time and money; meanwhile all of my AR FRTs run flawlessly. The disconnector replacement piece is what the hammer hits to force the trigger reset. It shouldn’t have to be touched if you’re using imported FCG parts. The trick is getting the cam to catch the trigger and release when the carrier is just about to contact the front trunnion. I had to make longer trip wires to get it to work. Nothing else was touched. If you were closer, we could get you up and running in a few hours or less. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: The disconnector replacement piece is what the hammer hits to force the trigger reset. It shouldn’t have to be touched if you’re using imported FCG parts. The trick is getting the cam to catch the trigger and release when the carrier is just about to contact the front trunnion. I had to make longer trip wires to get it to work. Nothing else was touched. If you were closer, we could get you up and running in a few hours or less. There are little tricks to these that are learned by experience and - there is lots of variables in an AK - I do wish some of the manufacturers would put out some videos on installation and tricks for various situations. I think Alpha was gathering feedback to imporive - but would be nice if they also made more detailed videos. Nonetheless they do work but its often without instructions - most people are visual learners - even a manual with pics is helpful |
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The AK platform, regardless of variant, doesn’t lend itself to a cassette style trigger and if you’ve spent any time futzing with the platform you’d know that, like snowflakes, no two are exactly alike, even if they came off the same assembly line consecutively. There’s definitely going to be a learning curve with AK FRTs and getting them dialed in and working. What sucks is spending a chunk of money for something that you might not be able to get running reliably, or at all and conceivably won’t work in another platform (if you so happen to own more than one AK) which would leave you SOL and out XXX doll-hairs…which sucks. Price you pay for being an enthusiast I s’pose… |
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Originally Posted By MikeWhiskey: The AK platform, regardless of variant, doesn’t lend itself to a cassette style trigger and if you’ve spent any time futzing with the platform you’d know that, like snowflakes, no two are exactly alike, even if they came off the same assembly line consecutively. There’s definitely going to be a learning curve with AK FRTs and getting them dialed in and working. What sucks is spending a chunk of money for something that you might not be able to get running reliably, or at all and conceivably won’t work in another platform (if you so happen to own more than one AK) which would leave you SOL and out XXX doll-hairs…which sucks. Price you pay for being an enthusiast I s’pose… The cost of entry is cheap compared to the longterm cost of ammunition to feed a working unit. I have four hungry AK bastards that were wishing it was 1999 again, LOL! |
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Originally Posted By TonyRumore: Not that anyone cares, but that design with the bar pulling a cam, pinned in place by the safety shaft, tripping the disconnector back, was originally designed by Tromix in 2001. The drawings were sold to other C2 mfg's for a short time. Tony Rumore Tromix Very Interesting Info. What was it used for? Was there a forced Reset or something else? A 8" Saiga-12 with forced reset trigger Hmmm I wonder if these will Work on a Saiga-12/Vepr-12. My Saiga and VEPR shotguns are not getting much trigger time these days. Maybe need to add one of these
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: What was it used for? It was used to convert any semi-auto AK to full auto. It was a post 86 Dealer Sample Drop-In-Auto-Sear. It required no other parts to be changed out. Just drop it in and roll. At the time I had a bunch of Valmets and Galils which I wanted to shoot full auto, but didn't want to drill the receivers for standard auto sears. Tony Rumore Tromix |
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Originally Posted By TonyRumore: Not that anyone cares, but that design with the bar pulling a cam, pinned in place by the safety shaft, tripping the disconnector back, was originally designed by Tromix in 2001. The drawings were sold to other C2 mfg's for a short time. Tony Rumore Tromix I remember seeing those drawings. Wasn’t the cam connected to a piece that acted on the disconnector kind of like a lightning link? I had a C2 at the time and it was easier to use one of Bowers’ fixtures and put a hole in a $250 SAR-1. Had I had my Valmet and Galils at the time, I may have made a few just to try them out. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I remember seeing those drawings. Wasn’t the cam connected to a piece that acted on the disconnector kind of like a lightning link? Yep. The cam was connected to a draw bar that ran along the left hand side of the receiver and came up in front of the bolt carrier. When the bolt carrier went home, it pulled the draw bar forward, rotating the cam which tripped the disconnector back. Unfortunately, AK carriers are all different, so some will have plenty of room to get a large/strong draw bar in there, but others are tight. That results in you either modifying the carrier for draw bar clearance, or using a spindly draw bar which can break/bend/stretch. FWIW, Saigas rifles and the .410 shotgun have a ton of room to get a beefy draw bar through. There is no room for the bar in a Saiga-12. Tony |
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Originally Posted By TonyRumore: Yep. The cam was connected to a draw bar that ran along the left hand side of the receiver and came up in front of the bolt carrier. When the bolt carrier went home, it pulled the draw bar forward, rotating the cam which tripped the disconnector back. Unfortunately, AK carriers are all different, so some will have plenty of room to get a large/strong draw bar in there, but others are tight. That results in you either modifying the carrier for draw bar clearance, or using a spindly draw bar which can break/bend/stretch. FWIW, Saigas rifles and the .410 shotgun have a ton of room to get a beefy draw bar through. There is no room for the bar in a Saiga-12. Tony The draw bars and trip wires, depending on the type of FRT being used, are needing adjustment on the four that I’ve installed. The Mars type is easier due to not having to profile the tail of the trigger. And you’re very much correct in no two carriers being alike, LOL! |
Anyone running a FRT? Let’s discuss. (Page 2 of 4)
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