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Posted: 7/4/2015 8:56:40 AM EDT
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I have an Amd-65 with a singelhook trigger in it that has seen a lot of use, so i would like to replace it, i have a brand new dubblehook trigger.
Can i use the new trigger without any problems or do i need to replace the entire fcg? Any input is appreciated! This has probably been asked and answered on here before. |
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The double hook trigger can be used with a receiver which is only notched for the single hook trigger.
File the bottom of the trigger where it hits the receiver. Remove material until the trigger moves forward far enough to allow the disconnector to fully capture the hammer. Test the modified trigger to be sure the disconnector works properly by loading a single cartridge in the magazine, firing it and then releasing the trigger while listening for the hammer to be released by the disconnector and caught by the hooks. Repeat ten times. If the hammer isn't held by the disconnector remove more material and repeat the test. More than a few people have used modified double hook triggers to eliminate excessive trigger over travel. |
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Quoted:
The double hook trigger can be used with a receiver which is only notched for the single hook trigger. File the bottom of the trigger where it hits the receiver. Remove material until the trigger moves forward far enough to allow the disconnector to fully capture the hammer. Test the modified trigger to be sure the disconnector works properly by loading a single cartridge in the magazine, firing it and then releasing the trigger while listening for the hammer to be released by the disconnector and caught by the hooks. Repeat ten times. If the hammer isn't held by the disconnector remove more material and repeat the test. More than a few people have used modified double hook triggers to eliminate excessive trigger over travel. +1, this is what I do with all my rifles, makes a world of difference. ETA: Sorry, but please do NOT test for disconnector grab by live firing, even with just one round, this should all be tested thoroughly by observation and repeated adjustments as necessary with your rifle on the cleaning bench and disassembled where you can easily work the trigger and the action and verify that you have proper safe disconnector engagement. |
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Quoted:
+1, this is what I do with all my rifles, makes a world of difference. ETA: Sorry, but please do NOT test for disconnector grab by live firing, even with just one round, this should all be tested thoroughly by observation and repeated adjustments as necessary with your rifle on the cleaning bench and disassembled where you can easily work the trigger and the action and verify that you have proper safe disconnector engagement. Quoted:
Quoted:
The double hook trigger can be used with a receiver which is only notched for the single hook trigger. File the bottom of the trigger where it hits the receiver. Remove material until the trigger moves forward far enough to allow the disconnector to fully capture the hammer. Test the modified trigger to be sure the disconnector works properly by loading a single cartridge in the magazine, firing it and then releasing the trigger while listening for the hammer to be released by the disconnector and caught by the hooks. Repeat ten times. If the hammer isn't held by the disconnector remove more material and repeat the test. More than a few people have used modified double hook triggers to eliminate excessive trigger over travel. +1, this is what I do with all my rifles, makes a world of difference. ETA: Sorry, but please do NOT test for disconnector grab by live firing, even with just one round, this should all be tested thoroughly by observation and repeated adjustments as necessary with your rifle on the cleaning bench and disassembled where you can easily work the trigger and the action and verify that you have proper safe disconnector engagement. First, reread the red part of the post. Your bench test is implicit in those sentences. One can't know whether one has removed enough material without testing by hand cycling. I would have thought that was obvious to anyone capable of performing the task. Second, you can hand cycle the weapon in your basement until you are blue in the face but such tests will not permit you to certain it will operate properly when it is fired, which is what matters. The ONLY method of testing a weapon is to fire it. The only intelligent method of testing whether a disconnector is operating properly is to load and fire single cartridges and to observe whether it captures the hammer. |
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Quoted:
First, reread the red part of the post. Your bench test is implicit in those sentences. One can't know whether one has removed enough material without testing by hand cycling. I would have thought that was obvious to anyone capable of performing the task. Second, you can hand cycle the weapon in your basement until you are blue in the face but such tests will not permit you to certain it will operate properly when it is fired, which is what matters. The ONLY method of testing a weapon is to fire it. The only intelligent method of testing whether a disconnector is operating properly is to load and fire single cartridges and to observe whether it captures the hammer. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The double hook trigger can be used with a receiver which is only notched for the single hook trigger. File the bottom of the trigger where it hits the receiver. Remove material until the trigger moves forward far enough to allow the disconnector to fully capture the hammer. Test the modified trigger to be sure the disconnector works properly by loading a single cartridge in the magazine, firing it and then releasing the trigger while listening for the hammer to be released by the disconnector and caught by the hooks. Repeat ten times. If the hammer isn't held by the disconnector remove more material and repeat the test. More than a few people have used modified double hook triggers to eliminate excessive trigger over travel. +1, this is what I do with all my rifles, makes a world of difference. ETA: Sorry, but please do NOT test for disconnector grab by live firing, even with just one round, this should all be tested thoroughly by observation and repeated adjustments as necessary with your rifle on the cleaning bench and disassembled where you can easily work the trigger and the action and verify that you have proper safe disconnector engagement. First, reread the red part of the post. Your bench test is implicit in those sentences. One can't know whether one has removed enough material without testing by hand cycling. I would have thought that was obvious to anyone capable of performing the task. Second, you can hand cycle the weapon in your basement until you are blue in the face but such tests will not permit you to certain it will operate properly when it is fired, which is what matters. The ONLY method of testing a weapon is to fire it. The only intelligent method of testing whether a disconnector is operating properly is to load and fire single cartridges and to observe whether it captures the hammer. Or you can just get the parts that are meant for the rifle. |
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