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Posted: 4/21/2012 11:27:02 AM EDT
| Does anyone have a way to remedy creep on a G2? I have about of 1/4" of creepy trigger pull. |
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Install a RSA trigger if you want no creep. You can set it up as a one or two stage trigger and control the overall feel. ^THIS i have fired G2 triggered AK's and after installing one on my PSL it is lights out better then anything else out there as it is adjusted to my liking. |
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I liked the KVAR.
They did require polishing. Some have noted reset problems but I never had any problems with two I used, but I polished them well first. The trigger pull was consistent with a very postive two-stage letoff. NO trigger slap and no bump-firing. If I get another AK, I'll probably just stick a KVAR in it from the gitgo. |
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Quoted:
Install a RSA trigger if you want no creep. You can set it up as a one or two stage trigger and control the overall feel. ^THIS i have fired G2 triggered AK's and after installing one on my PSL it is lights out better then anything else out there as it is adjusted to my liking. +2. Damn, I've become a crowd follower. 
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Install a RSA trigger if you want no creep. You can set it up as a one or two stage trigger and control the overall feel. ^THIS i have fired G2 triggered AK's and after installing one on my PSL it is lights out better then anything else out there as it is adjusted to my liking. +2. Damn, I've become a crowd follower.
I always found the concept of the RSA to be something of a mechanical absurdity when stuck in an AK. The AK is a pry-bar simple gun, but with the RSA it becomes an Allen Wrench-dependent dealie. NOT judging, JUST saying that the RSA didn't work for me on a rifle and after tossing it around in the noggin I thought I'd rather have a non-adjustable trigger in a rough-use rifle. |
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In what way did your RSA trigger not work for you?? It didn't fit in some way and I couldn't get a good trigger pull on it. This was on SAR1 and 2 rifles some years ago and I frankly do not remember the details. They took it back without any problems and I have nothing bad to say about the COMPANY. Having said that, after thinking it thru, for myself, I wanted a totally reliable NON-adjustable trigger and eventually found that in the KVAR |
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Pull out the trigger and put a nice "ball"ofweld under each leg of the trigger(under the legs the hammer spring sits on). Now file it back till your happy with function and feel. I just did this. Feels great, breaks at just under 3 pounds, just a hint of creep. Saved me $80 on RSA, thanks! |
| Most AK's have significant trigger creep and/or take-up. It's a result of the trigger design. If it's a single stage trigger, I look at it like a long really light double action revolver pull. Easy enough to get used to. It is what it is unless you want to go through a lot of trouble. |
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Pull out the trigger and put a nice "ball"ofweld under each leg of the trigger(under the legs the hammer spring sits on). Now file it back till your happy with function and feel. I just did this. Feels great, breaks at just under 3 pounds, just a hint of creep. Saved me $80 on RSA, thanks! Good deal. Between doing this and and running a double hook trigger in a single hook receiver and cutting the second hook for an over travel stop,you can turn it into a sweet FCG. Don't forget to put a mirror finish on all contact points. |
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Pull out the trigger and put a nice "ball"ofweld under each leg of the trigger(under the legs the hammer spring sits on). Now file it back till your happy with function and feel. I just did this. Feels great, breaks at just under 3 pounds, just a hint of creep. Saved me $80 on RSA, thanks! Good deal. Between doing this and and running a double hook trigger in a single hook receiver and cutting the second hook for an over travel stop,you can turn it into a sweet FCG. Don't forget to put a mirror finish on all contact points. Some slick ideas there. I'm going to have to give those a whirl on my next build. Especially the over travel stop. I'll have to figure out an alternative to the weld, as I have no way to do that  Maybe solder or something.
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Some slick ideas there. I'm going to have to give those a whirl on my next build. Especially the over travel stop. I'll have to figure out an alternative to the weld, as I have no way to do that Maybe solder or something.Might get a few different tickness nails and slide under the the trigger and see what works. Then cut it to 1.25: and put it in side to side inside the receiver and a "dab" of JB weld on each side to hold the nail in position. |
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I just spent some time the other night "working over" my Arsenal 2-stage in my SGL-21 "go-to gun" and couldn't be happier with the results myself.
Used a flat jewlers file to take off about 75% of the second stage "peak" on the trigger, as well as about 50% of it from the hammer. Then polished both travel surfaces with a dremel and some polishing rouge til they were just right. She's now got a nice clean travel with "just a hint" of creep, and a very slight, but still pronounced 2'nd stage where it breaks nice and clean @ about 3.5 lbs or so. Perfect!!! I too was thinking of going RSA, but couldn't get my head around the idea of installing a trigger system more complicated than the rest of the weapon itself... Decided to try this first, thinking "what have I got to lose?" Glad I did. ETA: I'm sure the slight creep is going to go away after a few hundred rounds get cycled through, so not worried about that right now at all. If not I can always go after it again. |
I have two G2 single-hook sets in my two FEGs, and I'm amazed at how good these sets are. Both of them feel the same - very light pull, low travel before the let-off. Not dangerously light, but as far as I want to go on a mil-type rifle. If I had this trigger in my scoped AR I would be a happy camper, but I'm going to have to either work on it or put in a trigger unit like Geissele. If I were so inclined, I suspect those G2s would bump like crazy.
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