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11/23/2010 8:38:26 AM EDT
got an old wsar 10 that i switched the muzzel brake on a few times. its been a while since i shot it (6-7 months at least). went to the gun show over the weekend and picked up a 74 break with the 47 threads so i decided to switch it out. couldn't get the birdcage hider to budge.

any ideas on how to get it off- short of taking it to a smith and ruining a good muzzle device?

i can't figure out why it seized up.
11/23/2010 9:16:56 AM EDT
[#1]
Get some penetraing oil like break free in automotive sections of stores spray it down let it soak for a day then try again if they are not cross threaded or no bullet impact that has damaged it. then it should move right off.  If you where shooting corrosive ammo than I bet that some of the threads had been corroded and the oil will help this. and next time remove the break to clean and oil threads if using corrosive just in case I had this happen once with yugo ammo and my romy g with a slant break. keep us posted I am curious what you will find out.
11/23/2010 10:41:23 AM EDT
[#2]
I had tried to use a auto-solvent, but no luck. didn't let it sit long enough.

shouldn't be cross threaded, I put on the break/took it off a few times as I put it on before, just making sure. slid on real easy.

I think it may have been corrosive last time I shot. don't think i thought about cleaning the threads.
11/23/2010 11:20:01 AM EDT
[#3]
Kroil


Make sure you are turning it the correct direction.  Left hand threads

Use a screw driver through the flash hider for a bit of leverage.

US AK-74 brakes with 14x1 LH threads suck.  One I had was drilled and threaded off center and the bullet would impact the brake
11/23/2010 11:34:15 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Kroil


Make sure you are turning it the correct direction.  Left hand threads

Use a screw driver through the flash hider for a bit of leverage.

US AK-74 brakes with 14x1 LH threads suck.  One I had was drilled and threaded off center and the bullet would impact the brake


The bullet impact is exactly what I was thinking as possible to but corrosive ammo will eat on any metal always make sure you clean the threads well after shooting it and check later that night and the next day to be sure no green is growing on the metal those salts get into everything. keep us posted.
11/29/2010 5:39:17 AM EDT
[#5]
Gave it a shot with a auto solvent. Went with PB blaster. left it on for a few hours, tapped a little, sprayed some more, let it soak for a few more, tapped a little more. no such luck. no movement at all.

Any other ideas out there?
11/29/2010 6:49:49 AM EDT
[#6]
Heat.  BernzoMatic propane torch.  Heat it pale orange, let it drop back to gray & twist.  If it doesn't move, apply some more PB while its hot, let it sit to room temp, then heat & wrench again.

In the future, use some high-temp grease on the threads.  If you Dura or molycoat the gun, that will solve the problem as well.
11/29/2010 11:16:21 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Gave it a shot with a auto solvent. Went with PB blaster. left it on for a few hours, tapped a little, sprayed some more, let it soak for a few more, tapped a little more. no such luck. no movement at all.

Any other ideas out there?


A few hours isn't much time to let the oil penetrate and work on the rust.
Some more patience is in order. Let it soak for a couple of days, spraying more oil on it every so often.
11/29/2010 11:55:26 AM EDT
[#8]
Since this has a birdcage FH on it I take it that you replaced a muzzle nut or slant brake previously?

Some of the old WASRs came from Century with a right hand thread pitch that was not 14x1LH and would turn off in the opposite direction.  

Have you ever had the muzzle device off?
11/29/2010 4:00:19 PM EDT
[#9]
yeh. i've replaced the standard century slant. i had regularly switched back and forth depending on my mood. i have a hard time keeping any of the aks dressed the same. no probs before taking it off.

i'll try to give it a few days, bit at a time.

i may have to dura it in the future once this is resolved.
11/29/2010 4:15:24 PM EDT
[#10]
If you get it off you might want to coat the threads with something along the lines of choke tube anti-seize lubricant paste.
11/29/2010 4:44:45 PM EDT
[#11]
Just make sure when you are heating if you try this which it should work as well.  Do not qeunch the hot metal you will damge the metal structure if you qeunch. when heating Do it outside good ventalation. Soak with the pb for a 24 hours or so then if it is still not budgeing try heating it up as stated this should get it off. If not then there is somthing we don't know an element to the eqaution that has not been submitted. I am still suspecting that the corrosive ammo has just ate at the threads and caused it to sieze and if time is given with the PB you should be ablt to get it take a soft blow hammer and tap it every  time you ad PB it will help to get the oil into the threads andI hope this will be done one thing I would like to ask of you when you get the brake off is that you take a pic of it to post on the site as alot of people I know are shooting yugo ammo and they don't clean much I would like to show them what can happen if this is the case.
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