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Posted: 5/17/2010 4:42:49 PM EDT
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I recently bought the Red Star Arms Adjustable Trigger Kit in order to get a better trigger pull than I was getting from the Tapco G2 on my Arsenal SLR-107UR Krink. For whatever reason, this gun tends to have slop in the trigger as you start to pull it, regardless of which G2 I put in it (tried two different ones and both did it in this gun only...they worked fine in other AKs). Anyway, I got the RSA to work around this.
Once I finally got it installed and adjusted, I noticed that there is very little engagement between the sear and the hammer. I even backed out the rearmost set screw all the way (it's on the far right in the pics below) in order to get the sear to move as far bas as possible, but no matter what, there is very little engagement. I don't feel comfortable with this. Turning this set screw in further would decrease the engagement even MORE. On top of that, the disconnector seems to ride very close to the hammer. Much more so than with the G2. Perhaps this is required with a "custom" trigger, but it makes me uncomfortable. Seems like it's best to give things in there as much room as possible. Take a look at the pics below. You'll see the areas I've labeled as having very little engagement and very little clearance. Also, the "High Bump" that I marked is a little circular thing that protrudes from the bottom of the receiver (maybe where the trigger guard attaches?) and forces the backside of the FCG up high. IDK if this is normal to have or what, but I don't believe my WASR has one this pronounced. Is there any chance that this is causing me problems? I'm at a loss because this trigger is supposed to be the best. But I just can't get it adjusted in a way that works properly and that I'd be comfortable carrying around. Oh, and to see a video of the G2 trigger slack (before I got the RSA trigger), check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMUTTCA313w 
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| It looks like the rivet is the problem. I had a similar problem using the RSA trigger in a milled Arsenal I had a few years ago. I called RSA and the solution at the time was to grind down the rivet. I do not know if the RSA trigger has changed since that time. I ended up selling the RSA FCG. Also having the disconnector close ot the back of the hammer is not such a bad thing. It allows the FCG to function as a two stage trigger. |
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Quoted:
It looks like the rivet is the problem. I had a similar problem using the RSA trigger in a milled Arsenal I had a few years ago. I called RSA and the solution at the time was to grind down the rivet. I do not know if the RSA trigger has changed since that time. I ended up selling the RSA FCG. Also having the disconnector close ot the back of the hammer is not such a bad thing. It allows the FCG to function as a two stage trigger. The more I think about it, you're probably right. How much can I grind down the rivet without it causing problems? |
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First off, there is not a problem with the disconnector being close to the hammer unless it is causing trigger slap. Too much clearance could cause hammer follow if it can't engage the hammer fully, but unless you notice a problem then it being close won't cause a safety related issue.
I'll admit that I'm no expert on an AK trigger. In fact I've never modified one since the AK has a service grade trigger and, to my mind, it is fine for the rifle's purpose. I have done quite a bit of trigger work on other firearms however so I know a little about their operation in different guises, but I am more familiar with a more traditional sear engagement type. I watched the video but I can’t see anything extreme. The movement you demonstrated on the krink is pretty much a result of the long engagement surfaces of the AK hook style trigger. To get rid of it you have to shorten the engagement to reduce the amount of trigger throw required to release the hammer. Of course just watching I can’t feel the trigger so you may be experiencing something different than I see. I pulled out two of my Norincos and they basically look the same with a long, rudimentary, safe trigger that required a deliberate movement to release. Quite different than my more target oriented rifles, but I’m ok with that on the AKs. Of course as you probably know, engagement surface angles play a big part in things as well and it’s not possible to say anything about that from your pictures or video. You really can’t have it both ways with the AK hook type trigger. Either you have a short trigger throw with short engagement surfaces, or more engagement with a corresponding longer pull. It’s hard to see for sure, but your engagement with the RSA TG looks a little less than I’d be comfortable with. I’d be reluctant to grind much off of that rivet since it doesn’t look too thick to start with, and it is what secures the rear of your trigger guard. If this is the issue that is keeping the trigger hooks from fully engaging the hammer then I’d say the RSA TG isn’t made correctly. There should be enough clearance for the pin to allow the trigger to have excess play that can be taken out with adjustment set screw. Is there enough thickness on the rear of the trigger to allow it to be thinned a bit? If so, then this is where I’d try to make the adjustments, then use the set screw to set it where you are comfortable that you have enough engagement while still giving you a pull you find acceptable. Be sure to loctite these set screws once you get the adjustment the way you like, if possible. I’ve used adjustable trigger groups before and can tell you that the set screws have a nasty habit of moving at the most inopportune times . One other thing… it may just be an illusion but it looks like the rear of the RSA disco is binding on the spring arms. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
It looks like the rivet is the problem. I had a similar problem using the RSA trigger in a milled Arsenal I had a few years ago. I called RSA and the solution at the time was to grind down the rivet. I do not know if the RSA trigger has changed since that time. I ended up selling the RSA FCG. Also having the disconnector close ot the back of the hammer is not such a bad thing. It allows the FCG to function as a two stage trigger. The more I think about it, you're probably right. How much can I grind down the rivet without it causing problems? I did not grind down the rivet. i decided it was something I did not want to do and sold the RSA trigger instead. |
| After an extremely helpful conversation with the president of RSA today, I think I'm going to just send the trigger kit back for a refund. He suggested that I try grinding down the rivet, and I started to do that, but I just don't think I want to mess with it anymore. It's already causing me more stress than just having the sloppy G2 in there did. And after all, this isn't a target gun, it's an 8" SBR AK. So...back to the G2 it is. |
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Quoted:
After an extremely helpful conversation with the president of RSA today, I think I'm going to just send the trigger kit back for a refund. He suggested that I try grinding down the rivet, and I started to do that, but I just don't think I want to mess with it anymore. It's already causing me more stress than just having the sloppy G2 in there did. And after all, this isn't a target gun, it's an 8" SBR AK. So...back to the G2 it is. And there ya go... my thoughts on the subject, exactly. 
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| I think you found the right road here. I do not believe an adjustable 2 stage "precision" trigger has any place in an AK rifle of mine. I base that primarily on a reliability of function point of view. After I tune a G2, I gain a very acceptable pull weight and smooth pull/break while maintaining the reliability of a non adjustable trigger. |
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The RSA two stage adjustable trigger is terrific IMO if you put it in the right rifle. It has a terrific feel to it and will improve your groups at 100 yards.
Here's my rifles I use that FCG in. 
A common theme here. Great barrels and use of scopes.  You can get sub 2' groups of five shots at 100 yards with a well set up AK.
My blaster AK's all have G2 double hooks in them. The RSA FCG is terific in the right application. Nothing else like it on the market IMO. But for a regular AK, the G2 double hook is my favorite. |
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