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Posted: 1/29/2009 1:23:56 PM EDT
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i have a maadi and romy wum 1 with canted front sight bases...was able to remove the pins from the maadi, but no luck so far on the romy....tried the bfh on the maadi but it wont budge...have both of them soaking in break free...i read the romy fsb tutorial....anything i am doing wrong?
anybody done this? any before/after pics? if this doesnt work then what? thanks |
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You might try applying a little heat to the area with a propane torch, sometimes that helps. Are you trying to remove the FSB or just get the pins out so you can re-align it ?? If your taking it completely off try using a autozone type gear /pulley puller and get some thick metal washers from the hardware store that are the same hole size as your barrel.
Cut a slot in the washers to allow them to slide onto the barrel just behind the FSB and hook the jaws of the gear puller to the washers and make sure you have something to protect the muzzle crown from the shaft of the gear puller. You may have to use 2-3 washers stacked together so they don't flex / bend. This method works great for me and doesn't damage parts. YMMV. |
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telling him your source for said part might be a little more helpful No source....I made it. If he wants to borrow it, he can. I don't charge for its use. I just ask the person who borrows it pays for shipping both ways and returns it in a reasonable time. |
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The other bolt, as far as I can tell, is to hold the barrel. I asked about the hex head bolt on the RIGHT. It appears to be placed too high on the fixture to contact the barrel. It's even with the block on the left that supports the fsb. Also, it doesn't appear to be long enough to touch the barrel. |
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The other bolt, as far as I can tell, is to hold the barrel. I asked about the hex head bolt on the RIGHT. It appears to be placed too high on the fixture to contact the barrel. It's even with the block on the left that supports the fsb. Also, it doesn't appear to be long enough to touch the barrel. Hi POLY, Looks like it's there to allow the jig to rest in the vise without putting a lot of pressure (which might distort the frame) on it. Works in conjunction with the two hex-heads on the other side. Would also keep the jig level and generally make life easier. It's a nice piece of work, really. -L |
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The two bolts on the left support the aluminum block. The aluminum block supports the FSB. It is also grooved on the bottom to give pins a channel to slide out through. This channel was necessary so the aluminum block would sit as low on the FSB as possible to keep it from bending/breaking as well as sitting on the largest surface area for support. That meant the block was actually in front of where the pins would be coming out, hence the groove.
The corresponding bolt on the right simply provides a reference so the jig sits level on a vice. The long bolt on the left supports the FSB shroud on the barrel. It is shaped like a letter "C" on the end so the shroud has a groove to slip into. The long bolt on the right has replaceable hardened steel pins. The felt prevents the gun's finish from being marred, but it's really not necessary. So picture, if you will, the FSB supported on one side at the top and bottom. On the other side, the steel pin is applying all the pressure on the FSB pins which will exit between the two supports. The barrel and FSB are captive just from the pressure. I use several bolts with holes for the pins at different depths. The shortest pin starts the FSB pins moving, which is the hardest part. Keeping it short prevents the pin from flexing, walking and breaking. Then I gradually use longer pins to keep pushing the FSB pins out. The amount of pressure required to move some FSB pins is amazing. In fact, not securing the jig in a vise will cause the jig to bend. Even with the vise, the jig bends a tiny amount, but it's easy to bend it back into shape. The original jig went out to members of AR15.com late last summer and I finally got it back in December. Rather than sending it back to me each time, I just had one person send it to the next with each contacting me when they sent and received it. I gave each person one week max to use it. That one could actually be used to remove FSB and GB pins. Unfortunately, it is no longer serviceable, so I am trying to repair it. Here is the original jig. I know it's crude, but it worked well. 
Here are some more pics of the new version with details. These are the different length pins with their bolts. Actually, thepins are all the same length, the bolts are drilled to different depths. 
This shows the groove the pins slide out through. 
Finished product. 
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OK GUYS I JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE WE ARE ALL ON THE SAME PAGE...i had a friend take it to a gunshop he works at part time...the smith said he would have to drill the pins out, enlarge the holes and go in with some kind of cutting bit because the front sight is in some kind of groove and there is a channel or something that the pins fit in...if i straighten the fsb and put the same pins in it would go back in the same canted position...the romy site says nothing about this....whos right/wrong?
after soaking all night in break free still nothing.... |
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Quoted:
OK GUYS I JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE WE ARE ALL ON THE SAME PAGE...i had a friend take it to a gunshop he works at part time...the smith said he would have to drill the pins out, enlarge the holes and go in with some kind of cutting bit because the front sight is in some kind of groove and there is a channel or something that the pins fit in...if i straighten the fsb and put the same pins in it would go back in the same canted position...the romy site says nothing about this....whos right/wrong? after soaking all night in break free still nothing.... The pins do not have to be drilled out unless it is a last resort. The FSB is not in any groove, it slips onto the barrel. The pins slide through the holes in the FSB and then along grooves on the barrel. To realign the FSB, you'll have to relocate the grooves mentioned above. The only way I know of to do that is by locating the FSB where you want it and then drilling the FSB holes oversize by a tiny amount. This prevents the FSB from rotating back to its old location. Be very cautious here because the new grooves must not be so deep as to get dangerously close to the bore. |
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I have the same prob. with my Romy, just make sure your hitting it against something solid. I put the FSB on alum. block to absorb energy. If you use a piece of wood it will bounce the energy back to the pins.
Once I align the FSB I redrilled the hole with 1/8 drill bit (it only took a little material out of the barrel) and use roll pins to secure it. |
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